B-25G "Shark Mouth"; 1/48, Academy

[SANCER]

Here in Mexico on Thursday and Friday are holidays.

Taking advantage of the fact that it is a very quiet week, laboriously speaking (the students already went on vacation for two weeks). I have dedicated myself to take advantage of the possible time in surpassing this slow & prolonged process.

So, in a diluted mixture of these 3 colors, I made a few "shades" of dirt,dust and slight variation of tone in some random panels.

With this dark gray I marked all the lines of panels ...

For tomorrow, I´ll give a light sanding to all the pieces, to start with the final layers of the matte white color.

I think I'm going to stick the wings to the fuselage, so that the application of the white is as homogeneous as possible and have the possibility to see how the application of the paint layers goes in general.

Since the space between the fuselage and the nacelles is a little narrow, I think that before the wings are joined to the fuselage, I will apply some of the layers on the inner side of the nacelles.

It's all for now, ... I wait for Magy to be ready, and lets go to a dinner with friends, would you like? (tomorrow there is no work, until next Monday!)

See you soon.

 

[fubar57]

Finally caught up on the last 3 pages. Some great work here Luis and very interesting painting

 

[SANCER]

Finally caught up on the last 3 pages. Some great work here Luis and very interesting painting

I'm happy to say hello to you, George, your comments and words are always appreciated.
It seems that I go according to the procedure, ... so follow!

Un abrazo amigo

 

[Gnomey]

Looks good so far!

 

[SANCER]

I believe that the sanding of all the pieces helped to better diffuse the contrast of the different colors, I could correct small errors with the same sandpaper and most importantly, it allowed to leave again very smooth and smooth all the surface.

Somewhere I read that gently sanding the surface after painting, allows to avoid the effect of fog on the decals.

I do not know if the quality of the photos allow it, but I also liked the effect that sanding did in some parts of the lower part of the plane.

As I mentioned, I began to apply the layers of white on the inside part of the nacelles

By the way, I made the nacelle of the right wing look a little whiter than the other, so that I could work the whole bottom of the plane with the idea of not exceeding that level of whiteness, ... unless it is necessary to give it more white!

I leave this last image and return in a few moments with something that is more like a plane .... A complete plane.!

 

[SANCER]

Just to feed a bit the ego and after so much time, I did not want to delay more the opportunity to share our B-25G, now, with the appearance of an airplane !!

This was my hydraulic jack system to give the necessary height for the wings to rest without forcing their correct posture.

Well, what follows is to give the layers of white to approximate the desired appearance according to the images we got.

Greetings and until next time.

 

[Luftace43]

Looking really nice Luis!
Feathering the preshading is a neat idea, I like it. Very smart and methodical procedure for applying the paint job, these early shots already show its going to look fantastic. Patiently waiting to see more, excellent all around.

-Chad

 

[SANCER]

Gracias Chad

 

[Crimea_River]

Coming along nicely. The reason sanding reduces the chance of decal silvering is that you are basically creating a flatter surface with fewer tiny pockets to trap air. That's also why most of us gloss coat our models before decaling.

 

[Wurger]

 

[turbo]

Nice job Luis! I often buff my primer and paint to assist in getting a better gloss varnish coat later for decaling as Andy has mentioned.

Be sure not to leave a stark geometric pattern with your pre-shading. It should show through just enough to visually break up the monotone scheme and panels and suggest some fading and staining

 

[SANCER]

Nice job Luis! I often buff my primer and paint to assist in getting a better gloss varnish coat later for decaling as Andy has mentioned.

Be sure not to leave a stark geometric pattern with your pre-shading. It should show through just enough to visually break up the monotone scheme and panels and suggest some fading and staining

Thank you very much Kirby, after solving some more details (which were still notorious), I have been applying the diluted final white color to the entire lower part of the plane. It will only be a matter of finishing with the pieces that I have separately and review well that everything is agreed together.
I appreciate the interest and recommendations (they will always be important) I will take care that everything continues to come according of my expectations in these new procedures.
At some point I'll uploaded the photos that I already have.

Enjoy Sunday.

 

[SANCER]

Coming along nicely. The reason sanding reduces the chance of decal silvering is that you are basically creating a flatter surface with fewer tiny pockets to trap air. That's also why most of us gloss coat our models before decaling.

Andy, that's the right term I was looking for to avoid on the decals: "silvering", and the clearest explanation about the small air bubbles trapped.

Gracias amigo

 

[SANCER]

The pending details to which I referred, were practically two.
The first was to repair a space in the root of the wings, where they fused the fuselage.
I did not take the pictures of those gaps at the bottom, ... and they were the most notorious, ... but they looks that way after a bit of putty.

In the upper part those gaps were thinner, but yes, I took the before and after pictures ...

The second detail has to do with this last photo, It was my last-minute occurrence, before adding the application of the final layers of the matte white color.

... in a moment I return with the photos of this second pending ...

 

[SANCER]

I wanted to try using metallic paper to recreate the recognition lights (I had done them in other ways in previous kits). So with a 2mm diameter punch, I made the small circles ...

The measurement is practically the same as the space required in the kit, and I tried it with a bit of cyano ...

I must tell you that I struggled a bit with the cyano do the job that I wanted , I had to do more circles, until I managed to have all three lights to my satisfaction. (these were detached with some ease, after placed with the cyano ... )

I covered them with liquid mask, to proceed to paint in white.

I have some intrigue at the time that it is appropriate to have to remove the liquid mask, ... if the metallic paper comes off, I will have to see how to solve it (and I already have some options in mind). Let's wait until then.

Now I can finish applying the white to everything that corresponds ...

We will keep in touch, thank you for your visits and I wish you all have an excellent week.

Saludos cordiales

 

[fubar57]

Nicely done

 

[Airframes]

I agree, good work Luis.
When I've used foil, or other methods for making similar lamps, I've done it after painting and clear-coating the model. The recesses for the lamps were filled with a drop of PVA, to act as a mask, before any painting was done. When ready to detail the lamps, the PVA was peeled out of the recess, the foil added, using CA, and then the lens and colour added.
This avoids any possibility of the foil coming off when removing the masking after painting.

 

[SANCER]

I agree, good work Luis.
When I've used foil, or other methods for making similar lamps, I've done it after painting and clear-coating the model. The recesses for the lamps were filled with a drop of PVA, to act as a mask, before any painting was done. When ready to detail the lamps, the PVA was peeled out of the recess, the foil added, using CA, and then the lens and colour added.
This avoids any possibility of the foil coming off when removing the masking after painting.

It will be my option to follow in case they fall off. Thanks Terry, it is a very logical way to proceed, ... it will be for the next time I do it as you recommend. Thank you

I already painted everything in white, tomorrow I take pictures and I share them, I see it well ...

 

[Wurger]

 

[SANCER]

I leave the images of how the white color was applied ...

It seems to be very noticeable the lines of panels, but I hope that with the steps that still follow (according to the videos that I am supporting myself with), I can give the finishing that I hope.

The rest of the pieces:

Now, I have a query for the connoisseurs of this "Shark Mouth" version.

I was about to start the masking to apply the olive drab, but I notice some discrepancies between the photographs of the same plane!
1) The "shark's head", has different shading in olive drab.
2) In the upper tips of the vertical stabilizers, the white paint is also different.

I do not know if it is a different plane, ... the registration number in our model is 264758 and I think that in the color photo you can distinguish the same.

It is likely that it is the same plane, but in the color photo, have made some repairs and alterations, which changed the design of the original drawing?

3) In the following photo in B / W (from the same plane as the color photo) I can distinguish a different tone of color in the "border of shock" with the air of the wings. It will be a kind of antifreeze band ?, in a different color ?.

I do not distinguish it like this in the few photos that I have of more, of our version.

This is another image where the color drawing does not match with the photos in B / W.

I would be inclined to do the work of demarcating the colors, according to what I think is the oldest photograph of our B-25G (264758)

What are your comments, knowledge of the case and recommendations?

Thanks in advance for commenting and allowing us to know a little more about our bird.
Saludos