BoB 1/48 Hurricane Decal help.

[Wurger]

The problem with the colour density of a such printed decal markings can be solved by multiprinting the same markings. Just two or three times put the same sheet through the printer. However it is better to check the way with a piece of papaer sheet of the same dimension that a clear decal sheet is. According to my experience the incorrect moving of the paper sheet at the printer paper feeding track can make markings looking washy at edges or shifted. So all has to be set accurately.

 

[s1chris]

Oh that sounds a bit technical! I have got a Kodak ESP 3.2 so it's obviously pretty good at printing pictures with no issues. Or is the Decal paper itself that causes the issue?

I ordered a set of 30" codes from Hannants anyway so once they arrive and I get them against the model it should be easy to judge what was the correct size.

Cheers Chris

 

[Wurger]

No , the paper decal is O.K. But if you print the decal marking once and then you put the same decal sheet into the printer for the another go of printing you may get the picture moved a little bit. In other words the second picture won't be printed at the same location ( shifted to the left or right or just up or down ). Please try to that. Print some of text written with the Word e.g. Then take the paper sheet and put it again into the printer. Then print the same text again. Notice that the black ink looks more black then it was initially. Unless the text isn't printed in the same place as it was at the first time. I'm sure you can see the difference.

 

[Crimea_River]

Another way to make your own codes is to mask them. You'll need to start with a good scale print of the actual letters you will use. Print these onto normal paper, then stick the cut-out letters onto tape. Turn the tape over and stick it to a cutting mat, then very carefully with a new, sharp blade, cut the tape along the lines of the paper letters stuck on the back. This is quite simple for "straight" letters, like your L, but gets a bit tricky for rounded letters. Once the cut out letters are removed, tape the masks to your model, being careful not to rip them, and airbrush the letters with thin coats of paint. Remove the masks and touch up with a brush as necessary.

Used this technique, albeit in reverse, here starting at post 139: http://www.ww2aircraft.net/forum/7-battle-britain/done-1-48-tamiya-spitfire-mk-i-dw-o-610-sqdn-bob-gb-26337-10.html

By the way, you Hurricane is looking excellent. I'm looking forward to the finish and do get yourself into a GB. Great way to learn more.

 

[Wurger]

I agree with CR here. This is another and good way for making them.

 

[s1chris]

There seams to be plenty of options if all else fails anyway. I may use the masking method just to cut down on the amount of decal sheets I can see myself buying. At least with one sheet of decals I will have a basic template.

Ref GB's - are there any rules regarding photographs before you start the kit or just the completes ones. Half of the reason I haven't participated yet is because I was unsure of the rules.

Thanks to all again.

 

[Wurger]

All GB rules can be found in the GB section. Just go there and read. Also have a look at a couple GB threads and I'm sure you understand

 

[s1chris]

I'll have a re read. There was something I didn't understand but I can't remember what.
Please believe me I am not as stupid as my post's may make you think. I just have a massive fear of getting anything wrong, hence the 1001 questions on everything.

Cheers Chris

 

[Wurger]

Chris,

I don't think you are stupid or something like that. Also all your posts don't make me thinking in the way you suggested. Personally I'm very happy I can talk ( actually write ) with you in English. As you may know it is my native language and therefore my post can seem to be a mess and can cause nothing but troubles.. It is because I have to translate all my Polish thoughts into the English firstly. It's very difficult to do that correctly often. So I try to use as simple language as I can. Mostly because I don't want to be wired myself or understood wrongly. And this is the reason I suggest using tutorials written by natives.
Anyway if you took an offence at me or got an impression I was trying to do that , please condone.

Wojtek

BTW... Always feel free to ask.

 

[fubar57]

Your English has improved greatly since I've joined this site Wojtek, and Chris, never be afraid to ask questions. Right now on a GB, I've got many questions about a wing. Always learning.

Geo

 

[Wurger]

THX Geo.

 

[s1chris]

Wojtec, sorry your mistaken I was not saying that in response to anything you have said. I was just putting it out there to all as to why I ask hundreds of questions lol.

Yeah although I haven't spoken with you previously I can happily say your English is more than fine. Believe me, I know many native English people who can't write as well as you can.

 

[Wurger]

Thank you Chris. Glad to know I'm not as bad at English I consider it myself. That's very kind of you.

So back to your previous question.... the general rule is to show us the entire process of assembling of a kit. The general view of what comes with a kit is welcome. Just to show other guys here what they can find in a box if decide to purchase it. If a thread is created the title of it should contain the scale of a model and the type of a kite. It is nice if the thread title is as brief as possible. The rest of info can be attached in the first post there. Also you can enclose a couple of images of the real plane and its profile. There must be a kind of "header" in the first post with info on who ( name and nick), cathegory, scale, kit manufacturer and name of aircraft , aftermarket parts going to be used. There can be also a brief history of the plane or her pilot. Then you are working and working, remembering about showing us the progress. I hope it can help you with joining a GB.

 

[s1chris]

Ill give one a bash if have something thy fits in with a GB.
The nose art one looks appealing as I have a B-24 that I also need to model. The problem is that it will be the first time I use Alcad but also making the nose art is going to e a challenge.

This is the only surviving photograph of either the plane and nose art. Also I don't know the call sign letter for the squadron codes and I'm pretty much goin to give up in trying to find it as I have been looking for over a year but with no joy.

So there is my problem, I can't actually fully 100% complete the model. Would that be acceptable just to miss one letter off if I can reproduce the nose art?

 

[fubar57]

Got a squadron number? I've got 14 books about the B-24 including the "B-24 Nose Art Directory"

Geo

 

[s1chris]

Thanks Geo, yep I can even tell you the crews names.

Was stationed at St146 Seething, England.
B-24J "Dragon Lady" ( yes another one!) 42-50457. 715th BS 448th BG
MACR 15896

Any help would be very much appreciated.

Cheers Chris

 

[fubar57]

From the Nose Art Directory by Wallace R. Forman-Specialty Press.

Not to be discouraged...I rarely sleep so it's 13 more books to go

Geo

 

[fubar57]

Might be a serial number error

Hmmmm....

Geo

 

[Wurger]

A record from December 1944 USAAF Overseas Accident Reports

Aircraft Type Serial Number Sqdn Group Home Base AF Action D Pilot Country Location
B-24J 42-50457 715BS 448BG 146 8 KCRT 4 Szudarek, Severyn G ENG Seething/ 4mi from S146

 

[s1chris]

I come across that page when I first bought the relics and questioned the seller. He is since now a good friend and the MACR confirmed it was correct. It crashed in a training flight in the UK. I will double check the SN anyway.

Cheers Chris