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- #41
BoB 1/48 Hurricane Decal help.
- Thread starter s1chris
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Airframes
Benevolens Magister
You're welcome.
- Thread starter
- #43
It's D-Day for the Hurricane! It's getting painted.
Just would like to check the colours before I make an epic mistake.
At my disposal I have the following -
Vallejo Dark Earth 71.029
Tamiya Dark Green XF-81
Will these two be ok for the primary colours of the camo?
Cheers Chris
Just would like to check the colours before I make an epic mistake.
At my disposal I have the following -
Vallejo Dark Earth 71.029
Tamiya Dark Green XF-81
Will these two be ok for the primary colours of the camo?
Cheers Chris
Airframes
Benevolens Magister
Hmm. I don't use either manufacturer's paint, being a confirmed 'enamel man', so can't comment properly.
I would think the Vallejo will be correct, but don't know about the Tamiya. I believe they introduced RAF colours when they released their first 1/32nd scale Spitfire, but I don't know how accurate they are. That said, if that colour is billed as RAF Dark Green, then it should be close enough.
I would think the Vallejo will be correct, but don't know about the Tamiya. I believe they introduced RAF colours when they released their first 1/32nd scale Spitfire, but I don't know how accurate they are. That said, if that colour is billed as RAF Dark Green, then it should be close enough.
- Thread starter
- #45
Nice one Terry. I just wanted to double check I had the colour names right to start with.
I'll post some pic's up later if I get it done to a respectable standard.
Shall I paint green over brown or vice versa? I might try and use a template to save the effort of masking.
Cheers Chris
I'll post some pic's up later if I get it done to a respectable standard.
Shall I paint green over brown or vice versa? I might try and use a template to save the effort of masking.
Cheers Chris
Airframes
Benevolens Magister
It's normally best to paint lightest colours first. So, paint the underside and, when dry, mask this where needed and paint the Dark Earth.
Rather than using templates, or masking, you may want to try what I normally do. That is, once the Dark Earth has fully dried, mark the camouflage pattern in pencil, and include the letters 'DG' here and there inside the areas to be painted Dark Green - that way, you'll know which areas are which!
Then either brush paint or airbrush the green, starting by following the pencil lines, and then filling-in the main areas. Even with a 'only relatively' fine line airbrush, if close in, at low pressure (about 15 psi), this is not as hard to do, free hand, as you'd imagine, and much easier and less hassle than the b@ll ache of complex masking, or trying to keep templates in place on a relatively small surface area. As a hard edge demarcation is required in this instance, any slight feathering or over-spray which might occur can be tidied-up with a paint brush.
If you feel you'd rather mask the entire underside, to prevent over-spray, then just mask the required edges, filling the rest of the area with cling film, tissue or kitchen foil, held in place bt the edges of the main masking tape - saves time, and saves on relatively expensive tape!
Rather than using templates, or masking, you may want to try what I normally do. That is, once the Dark Earth has fully dried, mark the camouflage pattern in pencil, and include the letters 'DG' here and there inside the areas to be painted Dark Green - that way, you'll know which areas are which!
Then either brush paint or airbrush the green, starting by following the pencil lines, and then filling-in the main areas. Even with a 'only relatively' fine line airbrush, if close in, at low pressure (about 15 psi), this is not as hard to do, free hand, as you'd imagine, and much easier and less hassle than the b@ll ache of complex masking, or trying to keep templates in place on a relatively small surface area. As a hard edge demarcation is required in this instance, any slight feathering or over-spray which might occur can be tidied-up with a paint brush.
If you feel you'd rather mask the entire underside, to prevent over-spray, then just mask the required edges, filling the rest of the area with cling film, tissue or kitchen foil, held in place bt the edges of the main masking tape - saves time, and saves on relatively expensive tape!
- Thread starter
- #47
I was reading one of your group build threads (maybe this very kit iirc) where you explained this method and at the time thought its a good idea. The only thing stopping me from trying it was my unknown ability to freehand with the airbrush. I think the change in pressure though will be key in making this achievable.
I have already completed the underside anyway and masked the edges but never thought about cling film etc. Great tip 👍
Lets see how it turns out in about four hours time.
Cheers Chris
I have already completed the underside anyway and masked the edges but never thought about cling film etc. Great tip 👍
Lets see how it turns out in about four hours time.
Cheers Chris
- Thread starter
- #48
- Thread starter
- #49
So I had a bash with following a pencil guide.
I'm not sure I'm happy with the results though.
Do the colours look okay? I think the brown may be too dark?
Will they change much when I apply then semi gloss coat?
Are they defined enough?
Cheers Chris
I'm not sure I'm happy with the results though.
Do the colours look okay? I think the brown may be too dark?
Will they change much when I apply then semi gloss coat?
Are they defined enough?
Cheers Chris
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- Thread starter
- #50
Having slept on it, I am sure that the current finish is not correct.
Plan B - repaint the brown but lighten it up a touch.
Mask fairly loosely with tape and fire away with the Green. Which I hope will appear a little darker if the brown is lighter.
Cheers Chris
Plan B - repaint the brown but lighten it up a touch.
Mask fairly loosely with tape and fire away with the Green. Which I hope will appear a little darker if the brown is lighter.
Cheers Chris
Bit hard to tell in the light, but still your call to lighten it up a bit.
looks fine to me and once your gloss coat goes on it will tidy up the different sheens on the green
Chris, i use Vallejo paints and i think the Dark Earth is ok, certainly not had any body on here say it looked to dark !
Chris, i use Vallejo paints and i think the Dark Earth is ok, certainly not had any body on here say it looked to dark !
- Thread starter
- #53
Hi Rochie, it's just all looks a bit grim and in my eyes nothing like what its supposed to portray.
Take this Hurricane at Duxford for example -
When compared to the brown on my model it's like the different between milk chocolate and Dark Chocolate ( sorry i couldn't think of anything else brown to compare!)
I'll give it another coat first and if still no joy I'm going at it with the white paint.
Cheers Chris
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up to you mate, but all looks good to me
- Thread starter
- #55
Airframes
Benevolens Magister
I agree with Wayne, it's a bit difficult to see the contrast in that lighting. However, the Dark Earth does seem to be a touch too dark, but then, this might be the effect of the green, which is only just visible in the photos, or the lighting of the subject.
BUT - if you want to make the Dark Earth lighter, don't add white!
Adding white by itself will give more of a light khaki brown, towards buff. Instead, add a very small amount of yellow, and check the shade when fully mixed. This can then be lightened if required, but only slightly, by adding a tiny amount of white.
When the gloss clear coat is added, all the colours will appear slightly darker, as the contrast is enhanced, but as Karl mentioned, this will also even-out any patchiness. Once the matt clear coat is added, the shades will go back to looking 'right'.
The dark appearance of the brown is very probably due to 'scale effect', and should look better by lightening it very slightly.
BUT - if you want to make the Dark Earth lighter, don't add white!
Adding white by itself will give more of a light khaki brown, towards buff. Instead, add a very small amount of yellow, and check the shade when fully mixed. This can then be lightened if required, but only slightly, by adding a tiny amount of white.
When the gloss clear coat is added, all the colours will appear slightly darker, as the contrast is enhanced, but as Karl mentioned, this will also even-out any patchiness. Once the matt clear coat is added, the shades will go back to looking 'right'.
The dark appearance of the brown is very probably due to 'scale effect', and should look better by lightening it very slightly.
- Thread starter
- #57
Thanks Terry, I have just passed over the brown areas with a slightly lightened (using yellow ) brown and am waiting for it to fully dry before deciding the next steps. This time around I will also make sure I apply plenty of green as I think my previous attempt did not get enough paint build and so enhanced the darker look of the brown.
Cheers Chris
Cheers Chris
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- Thread starter
- #58
Finally I have a finish I am happy with -
I reprinted the Brown and then applied a good amount of green.
What made it one hundred times easier was making mask's for the pattern.
I enlarged and printed off the paint scheme document that Terry posted In this thread. Simply cut them out and applied to model using 6mm Tamiya tape.
So I guess if I'm correct I now complete the weathering and after apply a coat of semi gloss clear varnish. Apply decals. Matt coat.
Thanks for the help all. I'm getting there in the end.
Cheers Chris
I reprinted the Brown and then applied a good amount of green.
What made it one hundred times easier was making mask's for the pattern.
I enlarged and printed off the paint scheme document that Terry posted In this thread. Simply cut them out and applied to model using 6mm Tamiya tape.
So I guess if I'm correct I now complete the weathering and after apply a coat of semi gloss clear varnish. Apply decals. Matt coat.
Thanks for the help all. I'm getting there in the end.
Cheers Chris
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Airframes
Benevolens Magister
Good stuff Chris - it looks better now.
Crimea_River
Marshal
Yup. I agree.
