Clouded clear Parts?

Ad: This forum contains affiliate links to products on Amazon and eBay. More information in Terms and rules

I'm assuming you use tube glue/liquid glue/super glue to attach them. Instead use white glue or a purpose made clear glue like Humbrol Clearfix. I just purchased Elmer's Clear glue and had to force the clear parts off to continue working.

125566.jpg
humbrol-clearfix.jpg


Dipping the clear parts Future or something similar really helps as well.
 
I'm assuming you use tube glue/liquid glue/super glue to attach them. Instead use white glue or a purpose made clear glue like Humbrol Clearfix. I just purchased Elmer's Clear glue and had to force the clear parts off to continue working.

View attachment 362301 View attachment 362302

Dipping the parts Future or something similar really helps as well.

Yes I use this Ok time to go find old school stuff and fine elmers glue thanks
image.jpg
 
Test it on a couple of parts. They don't have to be clear parts, you just want to check the holding strength and make sure it dries clear. I forgot to mention that I also use jigsaw puzzle glue. I have slathered this stuff on canopies as it dries crystal clear. You might be able to save the clouded canopies by dipping them in Future but I'd wait for someone else to respond as I'm unsure of the process here
 
You will likely find that the white glues don't bond very well so the clear parts can be easily knocked off. It's a compromise over risking fogged parts but one that, in most cases, is acceptable.

If a stronger bond is required, the best solution is to dip the clear parts in Future floor polish, allow them to completely dry, and then use CA (cyanoacrylate) glue to attach the parts. The Future prevents fogging of the clear parts.
 
There are white glues that are supposedly stronger than normal white glue such as Gator glue which is specially made for modellers.
As such they have a premium price tag on a small bottle.

I have found that a waterproof PVA Wood Glue does the job as well as any and you get a lot more for your pennies.
It tends to be my go too for clear parts as any excess can be easily cleaned without damaging paint work.

If you dunk the canopy in Johnson's Klear/Futur floor polish and allow to dry, it will prevent fogging from CA superglue.

HTH
 
Try Formula 560. It's a PVA that's formulated specifically for gluing canopys in RC scale craft. I've been using for windows in model buildings and in plastic and it has good tack. It does not weld parts like solvent-based cements so it's obviously not as strong. I find that CA sometimes reacts to static charges on the plastic and jumps to places you don't want it. Once CA gets on a clear part, it isn't pretty and doesn't end well.
 
There is always Crafter's Pick. It is supposed to be a water based super glue. I plan on using that for my next canopy. Testor's clear window cement is pretty good too.
 
Honestly the "modeler specific" white glues are no better or worse than good old Elmers. Elmers licenses their glue to a number of companies that then re-market the exact same glue as something special for extra dollars. A number of companies also do the same.

This subject comes up many times. Yes some PVA's do add things that supposedly help in our applications. But YouTube has a couple dozen face off tests of these glues vs Elmers, and so far Elmers worked just as well and in some cases better than the ones supposedly for modeling.

All PVA's form a comparatively weak bond when compared to solvent based glues. PVA forms a mechanical not chemical bond. As such they are susceptible to being dislodged easily. But they make great fillers around clear parts and do not fog clear styrene.
 
Have tested Crafter's Pick on an old Heller T-6 canopy. I thinned it a little with water so that it would be easier to apply and it has worked very well. I found that the adhesion is better than I expected. The reason for thinning is due to the glue being quite thick from the bottle. It doesn't take very much thinning but just enough to help with spreading along the base where the canopy will attach to the fuselage. I also use it for paper modeling along with Elmer's. I've dropped the fuselage with canopy, flicked it with a finger nail and found that if I want to remove it, I will have to pry it off.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back