Decal application? What should I know?
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fubar57
General
A good even gloss coat to start with. After that, there are as many ways to apply them as there are modellers. I'll let the others describe their favourite methods as I use most of them, sometimes on the same model
A good pair of tweezers to hold the decal and backing.
Either a brush or tooth pick to slide the decal off and then position it accurately.
A supply of paper towel and cotton buds to remove excess liquid and smooth the decal down.
You might also want to consider decal softeners for that 'painted on' look.
Cheers
Steve
Either a brush or tooth pick to slide the decal off and then position it accurately.
A supply of paper towel and cotton buds to remove excess liquid and smooth the decal down.
You might also want to consider decal softeners for that 'painted on' look.
Cheers
Steve
- Thread starter
- #4
fubar57
General
You've got a fair selection of softening/setting solutions...
From what I've read, put the setting solution on first to clean the area, slide the decal on and then use the softening solution. The softening solution "melts" the decal into recesses like panel lines and over rivets to created a painted on look. Some people just use one or the other. For stubborn decals, Walthers is one of the more aggressive and can actually destroy a decal. Some kit makers and after-market decal producers will recommend a certain brand. It's always best to test on a decal you aren't going to use
From what I've read, put the setting solution on first to clean the area, slide the decal on and then use the softening solution. The softening solution "melts" the decal into recesses like panel lines and over rivets to created a painted on look. Some people just use one or the other. For stubborn decals, Walthers is one of the more aggressive and can actually destroy a decal. Some kit makers and after-market decal producers will recommend a certain brand. It's always best to test on a decal you aren't going to use
- Thread starter
- #6
Thank you for the photos and info.
Why would I need that softener when my item is glass smooth?
I think I should Post a photo of my project.
I'll try to get one up tonight. I have to send a photo from one PC to another by e-mail.
Blacklist
"EDIT"
OK, here's a quick photo study as to what is going on.
I made this helmet from balsa wood, 1.25" high. It will be attach to this bust which I made from cutting down the jet pilot on the left. Painted and detailed.
The primed helmet has a shield just for the fit. I cut the shield from a paper template I first made. The final shield will be black with a purple highlight. I have colored shield material.
The helmet is painted yellow and black. I where gloves to handle it now that it's painted.
Last edited:
fubar57
General
- Thread starter
- #8
It should be.
You can apply most varnishes etc over decals. I always apply a gloss coat followed by my final coat (typically satin or flat as I'm an aircraft modeller).
You should be able to get your decals to conform nicely to your subject without silvering. Silvering is when the decal's carrier film becomes visible, usually due to minute air bubbles trapped under the decal and in the surface of the model. A good gloss finish, as you already have, goes a long way to avoiding this.
Decal softeners will also help to remove minor silvering as well as helping the decals to conform. This 'kennziffer'/tactical number is applied to a Luftwaffe night fighter, and the way the Microsol/Microset system has caused it to conform to the rivet and other detail is clear.
You may not need to do this for your subject, just apply using warm water.
If you do decide to use a setting solution be aware that they vary considerably in strength and decal also vary considerably in the way they will react to any given solution. Some decals are impervious to, whereas others will disintegrate in, the same solution.
Cheers
Steve
Robert Porter
Senior Master Sergeant
Decal quality and thickness vary kit to kit even within the same vendor. Also depending on what the decal is going onto in terms of raised or inset details (rivets, panel lines, smooth) you may have fine results with just putting it on with nothing more than water or you may need one of the many solutions designed to assist with decal placement.
Silvering has several causes but is usually related to the type of paint on the surface it is being applied too. Prepping the area first with a gloss coat or a setting solution is advised to help prevent silvering and increase adhesion.
If the decal looks "Thick" on the model one of the softening solutions can help reduce that look and make the decal appear to melt into the model more like a painted look.
Also remember to cover the decals with a final coat of clear or your choice. Many of these are available.
A word of caution with the softening solutions. A little goes a long way, use a Q-Tip or cotton bud to apply and dab off excess. Also sometimes the decal will wrinkle a bit while the solution is working. Resist the temptation to smooth it back out with your fingers just let it do its job, it will eventually flatten back out all by itself.
And as mentioned, always test if you can with a decal not being used as each solution has a different reaction to the surface its on as well as materials used etc. Some of the softening solutions can be pretty aggressive and you may actually dissolve one.
And finally, if you print your own decals with an inkjet printer let the decal dry completely or you will find the solutions will lift the ink right off the backing. What a mess. Happened to me and it was like I was using an eraser rather than a setting solution!
Silvering has several causes but is usually related to the type of paint on the surface it is being applied too. Prepping the area first with a gloss coat or a setting solution is advised to help prevent silvering and increase adhesion.
If the decal looks "Thick" on the model one of the softening solutions can help reduce that look and make the decal appear to melt into the model more like a painted look.
Also remember to cover the decals with a final coat of clear or your choice. Many of these are available.
A word of caution with the softening solutions. A little goes a long way, use a Q-Tip or cotton bud to apply and dab off excess. Also sometimes the decal will wrinkle a bit while the solution is working. Resist the temptation to smooth it back out with your fingers just let it do its job, it will eventually flatten back out all by itself.
And as mentioned, always test if you can with a decal not being used as each solution has a different reaction to the surface its on as well as materials used etc. Some of the softening solutions can be pretty aggressive and you may actually dissolve one.
And finally, if you print your own decals with an inkjet printer let the decal dry completely or you will find the solutions will lift the ink right off the backing. What a mess. Happened to me and it was like I was using an eraser rather than a setting solution!
- Thread starter
- #11
Steve,
Thanks for the reply.
You do good work. I see where you applied some tool, (toothpick) and burnished the rivet holes. Nicely done.
Here's my decal sheet, 1/72. I'm not using much of it. Flags and some of the stared stripes.
I plan on cutting each flag and applying them one at a time because the space between them is to large. I'll be on the edge of the ink, so no silvering.
This pilot will be under a canopy, so super detail isn't necessary, but I do want it to be as nice as possible.
I spent an hour this morning masking again for the second hit with black. I hope I don't have issues.
Thanks for the reply.
Blacklist
Thanks for the reply.
You do good work. I see where you applied some tool, (toothpick) and burnished the rivet holes. Nicely done.
Here's my decal sheet, 1/72. I'm not using much of it. Flags and some of the stared stripes.
I plan on cutting each flag and applying them one at a time because the space between them is to large. I'll be on the edge of the ink, so no silvering.
This pilot will be under a canopy, so super detail isn't necessary, but I do want it to be as nice as possible.
I spent an hour this morning masking again for the second hit with black. I hope I don't have issues.
Thanks for the reply.
Blacklist
- Thread starter
- #12
Robert,
Nice to see the uniform, kudos.
I did the Army, back in the 60's.
I took a look at your website and watched that etching video. I'm typing this from under my bed and I'm not coming out. Ever!
I can live with being a hack. A hack that tries hard.
You like the B-17. Send me a PM.
Thanks for the reply.
Blacklist
Nice to see the uniform, kudos.
I did the Army, back in the 60's.
I took a look at your website and watched that etching video. I'm typing this from under my bed and I'm not coming out. Ever!
I can live with being a hack. A hack that tries hard.
You like the B-17. Send me a PM.
Thanks for the reply.
Blacklist
Robert Porter
Senior Master Sergeant
Blacklist,
Same, thanks for your service! I was in from 1978 to 1981 with SAC. Was as they say interesting times. I am still trying to figure out how to order the chemicals without ending up on a watchlist or getting a visit from the FBI...
Will PM you as soon as I figure out how!
Cheers,
Robert
Same, thanks for your service! I was in from 1978 to 1981 with SAC. Was as they say interesting times. I am still trying to figure out how to order the chemicals without ending up on a watchlist or getting a visit from the FBI...
Will PM you as soon as I figure out how!
Cheers,
Robert
fubar57
General
No tool used. That is the purpose of the decal solutions, to make the decal look as if it's painted on
Left click on Blacklists photo and a box pops up then click on the option "Start a Conversation"
Robert Porter
Senior Master Sergeant
Ah ha! I was looking for something more complicated! Thanks! And done!
Robert Porter
Senior Master Sergeant
I envy you Fubar57, wish I could say I was from Canada! Especially nowadays. But Jungles? In Canada?
- Thread starter
- #17
My first attempt.
I don't think these 1/72 decals are sticking all that well.
Let me guess. Over a period of time, it's found out that you "must" use other chemicals to make decals stick. That is, the adhesive on the decal is only so so?
Just a guess.
Blacklist
I don't think these 1/72 decals are sticking all that well.
Let me guess. Over a period of time, it's found out that you "must" use other chemicals to make decals stick. That is, the adhesive on the decal is only so so?
Just a guess.
Blacklist
Robert Porter
Senior Master Sergeant
I would not say you have to use an auxiliary solution to get the decal to set, but it certainly helps a lot!
fubar57
General
I never used a decal solution until I came to this site. It is true though that older decals can lose their adhesiveness and occasionally faulty new decals slip through quality control but by and large, I've never had a problem with decals not sticking
- Thread starter
- #20
I think static is holding these decals on. They never felt sticky?
Here's the back of Gort's helmet, you can see the highs and lows. Primer shows them better.
I couldn't get the decal to stick in the lows at all.
Another thing,
The yellow is TAMIYA spray can for plastics and the black is Krylon spray can also. So, a water base clear may not bite.
Blacklist
