**** DONE: 1/48 JM-1 Marauder - Allied Manufactured Aircraft

Discussion in '#25 Allied Manufactured Aircraft' started by fubar57, Apr 4, 2015.

  1. fubar57

    fubar57 Well-Known Member

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    #1 fubar57, Apr 4, 2015
    Last edited by a moderator: Jun 10, 2015
    User Name: fubar57
    Name: George
    Category: Advanced
    Kit: Monogram
    Accessories: Decals

    The U.S. Navy and Marines operated trainer/target tug Marauders as the JM-1 (equivalent to the AT-23B/TB-26C). My subject is JM-1, Bu No 66759 of VJ-12 serving in the Pacific.

    JM-1.jpg
    b-26.JPG
    *Thanks to Mike Smith of Martin B-26 Marauder Man information at B26.COM. for his kind permission to use the photo.

    Geo
     
  2. herman1rg

    herman1rg Well-Known Member

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    Nice choice
     
  3. fubar57

    fubar57 Well-Known Member

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    #3 fubar57, Apr 4, 2015
    Last edited: Apr 4, 2015
    Thank you. Depending on the review you read, this is either a train wreck with lots of work or not too bad with a little bit of fiddling. I guess it depends on the release date. I couldn't find a date on the plastic but the decals were printed in '09. Good detail and very little flash so hopefully I lucked out.

    001.JPG
    002.JPG
    004.JPG
    View attachment 289002
    006.JPG
    008.JPG
    005.JPG
    Sigh......once again I've chosen an awkward color to work with. First up, deal with the deleted armament and Future the windows as they have to be added immediately and I want to crazy glue them in to make sure they don't pop out with all the handling.

    Geo
     
  4. Airframes

    Airframes Benevolens Magister

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    Nice one Geo. I built this kit a few years back, and there were no major problems - a couple of minor gaps needed filling though. There's plenty of scope for interior detailing, although not that much can bee seen.
    Watch the nose weight - it needs lots, then lots more !
    I stuffed the forward end of the radio compartment (out of view through the open door) with lead held in place with 'Plasticine', as well as the engine cowlings forward of the main gear, and anywhere else I could stuff it.This resulted in a heavy model, and I accidentally sheared one of the main gear axles, but I was able to drill and pin it with a length of paper clip.
    There's a set of metal gear legs available, but it's about the price of the kit, or more !
     
  5. Wurger

    Wurger Siggy Master
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  6. fubar57

    fubar57 Well-Known Member

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    Thanks Wojtek and thanks for the heads up Terry. Weight 'o plenty for this one. Fuselage clear parts are Futured and drying. To deal with the turret-less variant, I glued some strip on the inside and will lay some plastic card on top of this when dry.

    019.JPG

    I'm gluing the bomb bay doors closed which will allow for more weight and less build time. Of course, the doors are meant to be in the open position.

    020.JPG 021.JPG

    Geo
     
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  7. Crimea_River

    Crimea_River Well-Known Member

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    Another interesting choice Geo.
     
  8. Airframes

    Airframes Benevolens Magister

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    Good start Geo. Note that the weight needs to be as far forward as possible - in the fuselage, that means the radio compartment, immediately aft of the cockpit. Anything aft of the mid to forward section of the radio compartment is a no-go.
    From memory, I think I also put lead under the cockpit floor, behind the nose wheel well.
     
  9. Catch22

    Catch22 Well-Known Member

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    Another cool choice Geo, didn't know the Navy used these.
     
  10. Aaron Brooks Wolters

    Aaron Brooks Wolters Well-Known Member

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    Looking good George!:thumbright: I've got this kit in my stash.
     
  11. fubar57

    fubar57 Well-Known Member

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    Thanks guys. Neither did I Cory. I was looking for the Navy version of the A-20 Havoc (BD-2), an even rarer bird when I came across this. Hole filled with plastic card.

    001.JPG

    Geo
     
  12. Airframes

    Airframes Benevolens Magister

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    Nicely done Geo.
     
  13. Crimea_River

    Crimea_River Well-Known Member

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  14. fubar57

    fubar57 Well-Known Member

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    Thanks Terry and Andy. I've since added another piece 2/3 the size to minimize the putty work and done the same with the right half. I'll do the putty work once the fuselage halves are joined. Not sure if this was the right way to go about this but I'm not yet up to the challenge of bending one piece of plastic to match the curve of the fuselage.

    Geo
     
  15. Donivanp

    Donivanp Well-Known Member

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    I have oft thought about making a mold for these Monogram bombers, Glass nose ones, to make lead cockpits and nose gear. It had to find places to fit the weight needed. Years ago I found shredded lead and lead strips at a Hobby Town USA in Georgia. The shredded lead can be pulled in and stuffed in small crevasses the lead sheets can be cut and fitted to the curved or flat insides. You may want to think about upgrading to metal landing gear with the amount of weight it will take. I did weight an balance on KC-135s when I was int he Air Force. All weight forward of the wing and the further forward the more good it will do. I like this build. I have a shot or two of the JM-1 in a book "Carrier Air War in Original WWII Color" pretty cool.
     
  16. fubar57

    fubar57 Well-Known Member

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    Thanks for the info Don. I had thought about the metal gear but the cost is quite a bit. One of the other options I'm looking at is to make it a ceiling dangler. I'll check the out the gear covers later.

    Geo
     
  17. Donivanp

    Donivanp Well-Known Member

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    How about a board to mount it on, wire it to the board.
     
  18. fubar57

    fubar57 Well-Known Member

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    Room is at a premium here so that's why all my multi-engines are hangers. I play in the mud at work so I might as well play with the mud at home.

    001.JPG

    Did a bit in the cockpit but nothing to show, maybe later tonight.

    Geo
     
  19. Wayne Little

    Wayne Little Well-Known Member

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  20. Airframes

    Airframes Benevolens Magister

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    Coming along nicely Geo. The kit landing gear will take the weight, as it's actually quite sturdy, but if possible 'drill and pin' the main axles, as the plastic-moulded parts can break relatively easily, as I found out, and entirely my own fault.
    Like you, I'd considered the metal landing gear, but in the UK, the price was actually more than the price of the kit !!
     
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