**** DONE: 1/48 P-47D "Rat-a-Dat 3" - Allied Manufactured Aircraft

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Gun barrels made out of hypodermic needles, closed the wing gun covers and attached the stabilisers. Then decals on today - looks like I'll make the deadline. Can anyone confirm if it's GMT time we go by for the group build or any other time zone?









 
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AAARRRGGGHHH!!!
during decaling I noticed a worrying fog developing in the left side / front corner of the windscreen. Not sure why as I'd used Klear/future and not used CA glue. Maybe the poly cement reacted with the metal foil adhesive??:



Oh crap - what to do?
I've never polished out clear parts before so could be a first, or order a replacement???
 
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Having just checked out the Hannants site squadron do a replacement part but for the Monogram kit. Now, if it was an internal part I might be tempted to try to make it fit, but as it is the windshield - the whole contour might be wrong. I've got nothing to loose in giving polishing a go - I've got cloths/papers from 600 to 12000 grade. But order a replacement just in case!
The fog seems to be on the smooth inside, so at least I won't have to worry about the frames.
 
Exellent build!
For the clear part, you can try wet and dry starting from #800 to the finest grade you have.
Then some Mr Hobby or Tamiya polish on a cotton cloth. Brings shine to even the worst stained clear parts.
Normally CA doesn't eat in the plastic, it forms just a frosted layer on the clear. So it's relatively easy to sand and polish out. Model glue on the other hand eats in the plastic, making it much harder...

Make sure not to use any power tools for the polishing. It gets the plastic too hot and will melt it.
(don't ask me how I know this )
 
Instead of sanding the CA white deposit and polishing of the clear part I would suggest using of the Debonder and an ear cleaning stick with the cotton ending soaked with the Debonder liquid. The Debonder is a kind of CA thinner and allows to remove the CA glue excesses or just dissolving of a CA joints. "Washing" of polistyrene parts with it is very easy and doesn't damage the plastic usually. However a paint layer can be damaged by the liquid very often. There is a lot of such similar products offered all over the world. Personally I use the one in the second pic below....



 
Hi Gents
Many thanks for those tips. I've managed to reduce the fog to an acceptable level using sanding and polishing papers/cloths up to 12000 grade. Stopped polishing when I noticed a stress line developing up the centre of the front glass!!!! A coat of micro krstal klear and a coat of future seem to have both reinforced the clear part and gotten rid of the stress line. It was polycement rather than CA that caused the fogging and although I attempted to use some CA debonder it did nothing - as you'd expect against polycement, but I was both naive and hopeful!! I'll post some pics later of the part back in place - attached with white wood glue (great tips section here!!). Just got some touch ups to do and add the bombs if I have time later and it wil be done.
 
Almost there - as it stands tonight:
I've poached the Curtis electric prop from my Tamiya kit as the Academy one only comes with the Hamilton Standard. Attached the landing gear, pylons and radio mast. A few hazy pics tonight - I need to wait for tomorrow for some natural light to decide how far I want to tone it down with flat coat. Bombs almost done - just need to do the yellow bits, so may be get that done tomorrow.
Any UK chaps able to confirm the GMT deadline for the GB?









 
Nice to hear you got the fogging sorted out.
Model looks superb imho.
I really like the realistic aproach for the bare metal.
Something I have to try as well!
 
Good stuff. UK deadline is midnight on Sunday, 31st May - but there's a possibility of a few days extension if those close to finishing need it.
 
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