**** DONE: 1/48 P-47N Expected Goose - Pacific Theatre of Operations II

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Thanks Andy

Sprayed the Floquil Old Silver on last night. I'll let it cure over the weekend before masking for the Bright Silver.

 
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Glenn, nicely done as always. I'm assuming you're going to do some panels in a slightly different silver color? If you're interested MITHRIL is available on Ebay
 
I'll mask off some panels and shoot it with Floquil Bright Silver. Don't know about MITHRIL Mike, is it thinner based? My stock of both Floquil silver colors is running low so I looked on the internet this morning to get a couple more bottles and had a nasty shock. Apparently Floquil has been discontinued! Just when I have my NMF method perfected this goes and happens. I managed to find a place which still had them and d@md near bought their stock out so I'll be Ok for the foreseeable future at least.
 
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Nice work Glenn. I know what you mean, and how you feel about the paint supply running out. I'd really nailed NMF finishes using the original Humbrol No.11 Silver, plus other shades, using my polishing method, then Hornby go and mess around with whatever supplier makes the paints, and it's now utter cr@p. I'm constantly looking for a good, readily available, silver enamel, but haven't found one yet - too many of them show the metallic grain once applied, rather than a smooth, metal-like finish.
 
Though I cannot speak from personal experience the best finish I've ever seen is by the ALCLAD lacquer paint system. The reflectivity is controled by the undercoat. Spraying the Alclad II over Gloss Black produces the highest reflectivity, Flat Black less reflectivity and so on. I don't spray lacquer so I have not tried it but I have seen models and it looks great
 
Terry, that's what I've heard and read. But they have something like 5 - 6 different shades of aluminium. But as you say anything reflective, even gloss colors show the slighest imperfections. Not on my "to do" list
 
I gave Alclad a try about 6 years ago and had a major disaster, The paint cracking as it dried. I think it was the undercoat I used - Which was from Alclad - because it seemed very gummy when I striped it. I've meant to give it another try with gloss black but with the Floquil working so good I never wanted to take the chance
 
I give my vision of alclad II after using it , I did a demo that I have for testing.
It is very delicate , being lacquer has to provide a base coat and primer but has to be 100% compatible with the paint but problems , has to always give the primer is 100% dry if no problems , it has to be 100% clean both the airbrush and the surface if no problems, it has to give in rather than light layers if no problems , it has to stop drying 100 % without problems not accept colors above loses all gloss metal does not accept varnishes what ue has to have silvering with some decals , cleaning is complicated and if not cleaned well ruin the next payload in the airbrush , you can not touch the tracks are marked even with dried paint , provided if you do something is to be go to your brand with what you pay more for the same reason , they are quite expensive for what you have , and can not mix anything or not each of 10 tests mal 3 7 out well .
for me to have more colors are overdue
 
Geo, Hard to say. In general terms: #1. I use Acrylics and almost always thin the paint. How much depends on the paint and its condition so 1mL of paint could give 2mL of sprayable paint. #2. Coverage, light over dark or reverse. I generally will do 2 coats because you/I always miss something. #3. Nozzle, big ones spray a lot of paint and will overspray more and fine ones just a bit and very little over spray. #4. Waste, not all of the paint gets sprayed. Some is lost to thinning and stiring, filling the spray cup and gun mixing chamber, spraying something other than the model to check for spray pattern, volume, splatter, clogs, etc.
Completely spraying the 1/48 B-29 took an entire jar of Tamiya Flat Aluminum. The P-61 Widow about 1/2 a jar of Model Master Gloss Black
 
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