Airframes
Benevolens Magister
An alternative would be to make your own surface primer, by using your preferred clear coat, or white or light grey paint, and stir in some talcum powder, until you have a "heavy" but fluid "goo" - I call this porridge, and use it for this kind of problem, and filling very narrow joints etc.
Note that this works best with enamel paint / varnish, is still fairly good with acrylics, but does not work very well if using Johnson's Klear/Future.
Apply a generous layer over the affected area, using a paint brush, and allow to fully harden, preferably for at least 12 hours. Once hard, it can be sanded easily, and any "pin holes" can be filled with a further coat if needed.
This is a "traditional" technique used to fill the grain on balsa wood, and I've used it for over fifty years when making balsa masters to mould clear canopies or other styrene parts ( the master is given a number of gloss clear coats to finish, in order to present a glass-smooth surface).
Hope this helps.
Note that this works best with enamel paint / varnish, is still fairly good with acrylics, but does not work very well if using Johnson's Klear/Future.
Apply a generous layer over the affected area, using a paint brush, and allow to fully harden, preferably for at least 12 hours. Once hard, it can be sanded easily, and any "pin holes" can be filled with a further coat if needed.
This is a "traditional" technique used to fill the grain on balsa wood, and I've used it for over fifty years when making balsa masters to mould clear canopies or other styrene parts ( the master is given a number of gloss clear coats to finish, in order to present a glass-smooth surface).
Hope this helps.
