Hasegawa 1/32 F6F-5

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I see. It's O.K. Just remeber that there always is a such posibility. Our invention/imagination isn't limited by decal manufacturers.
 
As evidenced by the tag at the bottom of your posts, I think decals scare you too much. I have had some really bad screw-ups with some of the finest ones, sometimes you can put them back in the water and get it back on the paper. I use a tweezers to hold the paper and then a soft brush to move it off the paper onto the model. Never use your fingers, no matter what the temptation. 9 times out of 10 the decal will stick to your fingers and then trying to get it off will result in tearing. The best way I have ever found is to take it slow and methodical, as a wise man (Wotjek) has said, modeling is not a race!
 
THX Paul.

But I agree with Paul's post above. Well said. I use a tweezers for holding of small pieces of the decal paper as well. Those bigger I keep with fingers. Also I use a brush for moving it off the paper onto a model. No fingers used for moving or pressing tight especially when markings are applied on the model. If decal marking already applied on the model , has to be relocated and its moving is necessary I put some of water at an edge of the decal letting it go under the sign. Then with a brush I can move it to the correct location. Later the water overflow is removed with a soft paper towel just by putting it at one of the decal edge. If you need to press marking tight with fingers you can use the soaked decal paper of it . However it has to be put on the sign with the site where the decal marking was printed. The site of the paper piece is always smooth and able to slide on decal markings without sticking.
 
I loved builing this Hellcat so much,I jumped right in and built another one. Lost the starboard trim tab somewhere in the house and looked everywhere to no avail. Does anyone have an extra or can one you you pros whip me up one,because my scrath building is not good enough at this point. Still needs a couple of decals. I know I have the decal mixed up, but that one is a practice one for my next one.Going to go all out with that one
 

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Another method.

I use the long clamping tweezer to hold the paper. Clamp the paper before putting it in the water and leave it clamped till I'm done. I use the little sponge dobber on a plastic stick my wife uses for applying makeup around the eyes. Looks like a little pea size piece of foam on a plastic stick about as long as a tooth pick. I use the dobber to apply the sol to the area where the decal is going to be placed, and I use it to slide the decal off the paper and to push the decal in place and to press the water out from under the decal. When I am done I just squeeze the water out of it with my fingers and use it over and over.

You did a cracker of a job onner mate.
 
I am doing the same one,but this time in British colours. My question is, how wide are the invasion stripes suppose to be on 1/32.
 
For these strips ??? None of these posted above colours. Just only the white and black.

But if you meant those for the camo scheme.... for undersides Humbrol23 ( the Hu90 can be too but it is too greenish I think) . The top spots : Humbrol 155 Olive Drab Matt and Humbrol 125 Satin US Dark Grey ( FS 36118 ). Because the Hu155 and Hu125 are of different finish ( matt and satin ) the clear matt coat should be applied as the final touch.

BTW.. here the British names of colours for the Temperate Sea Camouflage : on tops - the Extra Dark Sea Grey ( FS 36118 ) + Dark Slate Grey ( FS 34096 ) , on undersides - the Sky ( FS 34424 ) .
 
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