Hasegawa 1/48 Bf 109K-4

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JKim

Senior Master Sergeant
3,601
545
Jul 1, 2014
Carlsbad, CA
I've only got one build going in the Group Builds right now and have been trying to flog my modeling motivation into shape and get my Pacific theater P-38J finished. I've decided to start a second build so that I have something to do while the paint/glue dries on the P-38J.

A few years ago, I bought a EagleCal 109K-4 decal sheet just to be able to use the drop tank decals on a G-10. I thought I should have a kit to make use of the mostly unused EagleCal sheet so... I picked up this kit last year off EBay for a good price. I really enjoy Luftwaffe subjects so hopefully this will get my modeling mojo back in gear.
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I've started by looking at the cockpit. The Hasegawa-supplied cockpit is ok but a bit light on the details. I have some leftover photoetch from the G-10 that I could possibly utilize including a PE instrument panel.
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There are a couple of 1/32 resin cockpits available for the K-4. Obviously a different scale than 1/48 but pictures of the resin cockpit can be a useful reference in absence of clear photographs. I used pictures of the Eagle Cal 1/32 resin cockpit to see if there are any easy fixes/additions.
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Compared to the resin, the kit-supplied cannon cover is very square. So I re-shaped it and added the flange around it using a strip of brass.
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Looking at the kit sprues, I noticed that there were three different instrument panels included. The K-4 instrument panel is noticeably different than the G-series... it has three dials across the central instrument cluster compared to two for the G-series. The Hasegawa kit includes a K-4 instrument panel so I will be using it instead of the photoetched G-10 panel.
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After an unsuccessful attempt at trying to paint the dial details on the instrument panel, I resorted to punching out the individual dials from the kit decal and applying them one by one to the painted panel.
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At this point, I am not FULLY into this build... just looking at this, adding a bit to that. Leaving the cockpit for awhile, I looked at the kit's instructions and found some K-4 specific modifications that need to be performed. For example, the round wheel well openings need to be squared off, which was an easy job using a hobby knife. I also cut out the ejector chute openings.
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There are also various holes in the wings to be opened up including holes for the characteristically wide wheel bulges on the upper wing. After opening the hole for the underwing FuG whip antenna, I spruced up the panel around it based on drawings.
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That's all of the work so far but lots to think about. One is the scheme. This is the decal sheet that I have...
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The number "7"s are gone. I can't remember when I used them but that takes one scheme out of play. I don't really care for the tulip scheme so that leaves either Red 1 or Blue 16.
 
I had previously seen trim the dials of the decal and apply them to the piece individually. I did not have to try it yet, but I'd like to know how you do the cuts for each dial. That front board John looks great. :thumbleft::thumbright:
 
Thanks for the comments and thanks for the Pic of Red 1 Geo! I think most of the swastikas on late war 109's were borderless, no?

Luis... I use a punch-die set to punch out instrument dials from decal sheet. I have one from RP Toolz in Hungary.
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I was really happy with it initially but lately, the smaller diameter punches keep separating from their mounted cylinders. This has happened with my 0.5, 0.6, 0.7 and 0.8mm tools. Superglue doesn't seem to be strong enough to keep them in place.

Did some more work in the cockpit including the addition of a little detail to the sidewalls.
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Added some stuff to the tub too including using the photoetched floor plate.
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For the seatbelts, I used a set from a Chinese maker, Lion Roar. Not as detailed as Eduard but good enough.
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I would say most swastikas on late Bf 109s did have a border, but the border less ones were not unknown.
Cheers
Steve
 
Luis... I use a punch-die set to punch out instrument dials from decal sheet. I have one from RP Toolz in Hungary.
Punch-an-die-set.jpg

I was really happy with it initially but lately, the smaller diameter punches keep separating from their mounted cylinders. This has happened with my 0.5, 0.6, 0.7 and 0.8mm tools. Superglue doesn't seem to be strong enough to keep them in place.
...

I bought punch individually but 1.0 cms. Up to 0.2 cms. I hope to buy a good punch & die kit soon. Thank you for your response and we remain in touch. Good work so far. :thumbup:
 
Thanks for the comments people. This build is rolling on... at least the cockpit. After the added details, I've painted the cockpit. One of the elevator trim wheels got pinged into the carpet monster. It's not the tiniest piece so I was surprised that I was unable to find it.
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The cockpit gets buttoned up pretty tightly once the sidewalls go in. Hard to see into this pit.
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The cockpit is set aside and I'm now focused on the exterior. I may break out the wheel and do some riveting.
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