Hawker Typhoon IB "Nicky" 439 Squadron RCAF 1/48

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Thanks for the explanation Dave. I was looking for some solution for a sun faded desert P-40 and never did get around to making the decals look less new. I'll keep this in mind for future.
 
I see what you mean now. Yes, the cowling and other nose panels were often quite visible, as they were frequently removed, and got quite dirty. However, the normal skin panels on fuselage and wing tended not to be so prominent. It seems to be 'the in thing' in recent years to emphasis all panel lines, which can work on some models, but can also make a good model look like a good model, rather than an excellent, accurate, model, on others. But, as you say, it's your choice, and each to their own.

Terry,

I see your point about panel lines working on some models and not on others but as we both agree this is a matter of personal choice. I believe they work on this model and preferred over a wing that is painted without which can look like a lump of plastic with two colours on it. Sure it might be more accurate but I personally prefer the look I chose as it is more appealing to my eye. Now this doesn't mean I will dogmatically stick to this technique for every build but I will always plan to have panel lines well shown on my builds because after all they are just models and none will be truly 100 % representative of the real thing. If you believe my model is a good model but not an excellent model I consider this an endorsement and makes me feel pretty darn good as I value your vast knowledge of World War II aircraft. I defintiely look forward to your insights in the future.

Cheers,
Dave.
 
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Started on some chipping effects as part of the weathering process. A few random chips here and there and more on areas where there would be wear.
The chipping was done with a prisma silver pencil. I have removed chips done this way in the past with some thinner so I believe I can do this again if you guys
think its overdone.

Cheers for now.

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Looks good Dave. The P-40 I was referring to was actually a past build of Stocky Edwards' HS-B.


Thanks Andy,

Good to see you don't think the chipping is overdone. I tried to restrict it to areas I have seen in photos, such as near the prop, on the gun panels which were often removed and replaced as the ammo was refilled and on the black walk ways at the side of the fuselage and on the right side near the cockpit. there might be too much on the tail though and on the outer wings. The silver pencil is nice because it makes the chipping look more subtle than paint. I think I am going to try and re-do the horizontal stabs though.

What version of the P40 did Stocky edwards fly? just looking on the net it looks like a P40N? Did you do a build on this site? If so can you provide a link?
 
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My pleasure Dave. The Kittyhawk Mark III he flew was a short fuselage P-40K with the large tail fillet. Vintage Wings of Canada painted up their N to look like the one he flew but it is not accurate for the actual version. I suspect that's what you might be looking at. Here's a link to the build: http://www.ww2aircraft.net/forum/11-aircraft-aces/done-kittyhawk-mk-iii-james-f-eddie-edwards-rcaf-aircraft-aces-gb-29879.html


Andy,

I checked the link out. Lovely build of Stocky's P40. I noticed as well your P40 has some prominent panel lines highlighted, especially on the underside. Really gives the look some definition. I have a question for you. Why did you use the Hasegawa kit? AMTECH and other kits (mauve molds) would seem more appropriate no? and pehaps cheaper? For instance I recently purchased the AMTECH P40K-5/Kittyhawk III and it can be built as a P40E (Same short fuselage as the K) but comes with a resin tail to do the round tail K5 with fillet. I got the kit for $20 including shipping. The reviews I read said its very accurate dimensionally though I think the cockpit could use an upgrade. Did Stocky fly a K1 or K5? hence the reason not to go with a non Hasegawa kit? Not sure if there were any noticable differences between the K1/K5 other than the numbers represented different blocks. I am no expert on P40's and still learning about them and might some day use my K5 to build a stocky Edwards P40 using your build for sure as a reference but just trying to understand why some kits are chosen over others.
 
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No real reason Dave. I asked some members here and the Has was recommended so I went that way. Must admit I don't know the difference between the K subtypes and it did not enter into my thinking during the build. The most challenging part will be to find suitable decals. I ended up painting the HS-B codes and am not fully satisfied how they turned out.

Glenn (T-Bolt) is our resident P-40 guru so he'd be best to bounce questions off.
 
No real reason Dave. I asked some members here and the Has was recommended so I went that way. Must admit I don't know the difference between the K subtypes and it did not enter into my thinking during the build. The most challenging part will be to find suitable decals. I ended up painting the HS-B codes and am not fully satisfied how they turned out.

Glenn (T-Bolt) is our resident P-40 guru so he'd be best to bounce questions off.


Thanks Andy,

I looked at the Hasegawa kit and I can see why it may have been suggested. It comes with two separate tails which can be fitted to the fuselage and some other options like separate optional instrument panels. The AMTECH kit has the P40E fuselage in place and you have to cut the tail off to use the resin round tail with fillet. The kit provides a template to do this but it looks like less of a hassle to just have separate tails like in the Hasegawa kit.

Finding the right decals looks like a real challenge.
 
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