Is it just ME?????????

Ad: This forum contains affiliate links to products on Amazon and eBay. More information in Terms and rules

N4521U

Colonel
13,739
6,158
Nov 1, 2009
Miranda, NSW
1. Are ICM kits manufactured for scratch builders and fixers in general?????
I've got a 1/48th P-52B/C kit that gives me the sh!ts. No pins is the first thing one will notice, a bit fiddley to get it to line up. I have found not all Mustangs are created alike. I figured I could get Any cockpit set to fit, yeahhh, naaah. I am about to loooooose it..........

2. On the Mustang.......... the wing dihedral just didn't look right, 5 degrees at the root, now how can I measure that I ask???? So I found an accurate drawn image of the wing spar, shaped a piece of 1.5mm styrene strip and glued it to the back of the wheel well part in the kit. Mounted this in the lower wing section. When dry lifted the wings to the spar, glued it in and Bob's your Uncle, perfect. When checking the glue area inside the wing, no joy, would have been to much!

3. Bringing up cockpit resin sets.
Does everyone have the same trouble with them I do????? Seems I have to spend a lot of time and effort hacking off bits of both kit and pit.... And the Super Glue dramas???? Arrrrrrgh.

4. To add to resin stuff.
Yep, I figured again, wouldn't All prop sets be the same, in 48th scale. I mean after all...!
So I got a prop set for a 1/48th P-40, I think it was for my Hobby Boss kit. Had to file the spinner down to get the blades to fit in the jig and line up with the holes. So now the bottom diameter is too small. Gord hep me....

5. Now I wanted to improve on my filler, for dimples and such. So I got some Perfect Plastic Putty. WHAT??? It's nowhere near like plastic. It's soft as warm butter, clogs up my files and sanding sticks. How long should I wait? Is there a hardener for this stuff????? What gives????? Bwaaahaaaa.

I'm thru.......... and exhausted from thinking about it.
Thanks for listening!!!!
 
Sounds like your having a real bad trot there Bill.....maybe Coffee time or something stronger......

I think a lot of their early kits are rather ordinary, but some of the latest kits are way better, Ju88 series for one.
 
Some early ICM kits were pretty sketchy. I have a Spitfire with a short shot on the wing root. An email to ICM and they sent me not only the fuselage half but the entire spruce tree, free of charge. I try to stay away from resin cockpits especially Aires. The ones I have used were by True Details and were great
 
I see. And I agree with Wayne. The early ICM kits are quite bsic rather. However , as memo serves , the ICM wanted to provide kits for using the PE and resin parts mostly. So they haven't paid more attention to the plastic details rather. Also there was a problem with the polistyrene used for injection process. This led to strong criticism by modellers. As a result the firm started improving accuracy and quality of their kits.
 
as someone who doesn't get too wound up with too much detail and upgrade parts i quite liked the 3 ICM kits I've built so far, Spitfire IX, Bf109 F-4 and LaGG 3.
went together pretty well though i did leave out the engines from the kits to help fit the cowl panels better.
plastic is pretty soft in the earlier kits too.
 
resin gives me fits, and don't start about super glue....

I use two super glues, thin and gel.
All I'm going to say.

But I have to find a decent filler....
I've been using an old tube of MMD fast drying, but I know it's gonna go bad one day and would like to find one more like plastic!!!
 
Bill, I've been using 'Milliput' for over 40 years, and have yet to find anything to beat it. Available in various colours, but I find the 'Standard' yellow-grey to be the most suitable.
OK, it's a 2 - part epoxy putty, which has to be blended in equal portions, but the filling and moulding properties are excellent, and it can be smoothed with a wet finger tip , brush, or the back of a scalpel bade, before sanding, giving a neat finish. It can also be moulded, tapped, drilled etc, without cracking or flaking.


 

Yep, I know that one, and have the white........
I little dips and small gaps I wanted a one tube kinda thing.
Guessing I'm looking for a mythical product......
 
For small gaps, I use PVA, or a mix of enamel (or polyurethane) varnish and talcum powder, and for some slightly wider (but still small) gaps, and for panel lines and shallow 'dips', I use CA, filed and sanded just as it has set.
 
Take a trip down to the local auto parts store, grab a tube of Bondo Glazing and Spot Putty which grabs like crazy, sands to a feather edge and works fine on pin holes. It is used to fill defects after real Bondo is applied, but works great for plastic (and resin models). Keep layers to around 3/32" deep to speed drying time.

PPP is mostly just useful for wing fillets, etc., because it can be smoothed with water, and if dome properly, won't need sanding. PPP is NOT useful for structural items, or places requiring serious sanding!

Shown here while fairing in the canopy of my XP-58 Chain Lightning. The red is the Bondo Spot putty, used to do the main filling (and sanded pretty thin at the edges. The bit of white color is the Perfect Plastic Putty to fill the tiny grooves, smoothed with water and no sanding:



Just my $.02 worth...

Ed
 

Users who are viewing this thread