Modeling propellers in motion.. what is your solution?

[Wiking]

Guys/Gals,
I'm building a 1/32 Ju-88, looking for recommendations or examples how to model the propellers in motion.. I'm thinking the current state-of-the art has evolved beyond discs of clear acetate.. But that's my best start - maybe airbrushed with a "fade" shadow of the prop blades.. something with Photo-realistic appearance is preferred, vs cartoon-ish, if that's any help.

Electric motors is not an option for it's intended use.

Thank you,
- Art

 

[mikewint]

PropBlurs Flexi-Pal Rulers and Etched Model Parts

 

[pbehn]

Is there a small company practicing industrial radiography near where you live.

 

[fubar57]

I've never heard of these before nor do I know how they work....Alliance Model Works 1:72 48 32 Prop Blur Dynamic Propellers Stencil Mask #AW015 | eBay

 

[Airframes]

Hmm. Always a tricky one, as a lot depends on personal feelings and choice.
Very often, nothing would look right. The closest would be lightly tinted clear discs, if thin enough, but this can also depend on lighting, the background, angle of view etc etc., and can often look very artificial.
The only time 'prop blur' is normally seen is in a still photo, or a video (not cine film), when the camera shutter speed selected may 'freeze' or at least partially 'freeze' the individual blades, which would not normally be seen by the naked eye. Very often, even the disc of the rotating prop can't be seen on a real aircraft, again depending on angle of view, light angles, engine speed etc.
The few times I've modelled aircraft as in flight, I've deleted the prop blades altogether, and filled any locating holes/slots in the spinner(s), if fitted. Of course, this means that the ring caused by the yellow (or other colour) tips is not seen, but overall, it gave the desired effect. For a Luftwaffe subject, there wouldn't normally be any coloured prop tips, so even better.

 

[Wiking]

Thanks all,
OK - it's not an area where technique has changed much in the past 10 years then! I'll start with the disc, check on the masking product Fubar57 mentions.. Period photos have the prop roots the darkest, fading to a blunt edge at the tips. Photo-quality is what I'm looking for, it'll be a display with adjacent b/w photo & descriptions, etc.. a technology exhibit displaying a Ju-88A-4 divebombing a merchant ship off Norway. That's all the procrastination for today, back to the model bench!
Cheers!
- Art
Bundesarchiv_Bild_101I-363-2258-11,_Flugzeug_Junkers_Ju_88_(cropped).jpg

 

[Wiking]

Is there a small company practicing industrial radiography near where you live.

Right. Yes. I could start with the darkened material of an X-ray film.

 

[Crimea_River]

You might want to try what our old friend Luis-Carlos did here: 1/32 Revell BF-110 G4 WIP

Probably the best I've seen.

 

[pbehn]

Right. Yes. I could start with the darkened material of an X-ray film.

X Ray film is acetate, you could try getting it exposed to the density (greyness) you want or try producing something to produce the effect you want.

 

[mikewint]

If it is photography you're after I'd suggest real/actual rotating props. Mount the kit props on a metal rod and insert. Set up to take the shot and then turn on a hair blower to rotate the props while taking the shots.

 

[Ed Williamson]

Steamgeezer did this on a 1/72 C-47 Skytrain. From about 40 minutes in . . . . .

 

[AMCKen]

Propellors sometimes look like this.

 

[vikingBerserker]

You might want to try what our old friend Luis-Carlos did here: 1/32 Revell BF-110 G4 WIP

Probably the best I've seen.

That is a brilliant effect!

 

[Ivan1GFP]

A sheet of acetate such as a report cover or something similar run through a Laser Printer for a proper Propeller Blur image.
What is appropriate depends on your point of view and of course the photograph you are trying to mimic.
That is how I would do it.

 

[xylstra]

Guys/Gals,
I'm building a 1/32 Ju-88, looking for recommendations or examples how to model the propellers in motion.. I'm thinking the current state-of-the art has evolved beyond discs of clear acetate.. But that's my best start - maybe airbrushed with a "fade" shadow of the prop blades.. something with Photo-realistic appearance is preferred, vs cartoon-ish, if that's any help.

Electric motors is not an option for it's intended use.

Thank you,
- Art

You probably should investigate some sort of polarising material with moire type of properties. Try contacting a few movie studios they may have some expert who knows his way around things.

 

[Wiking]

Thanks all, for the excellent input.
Found this detailed tutorial, and this is what I'll try..
Cheers, - Art

Fill 'n Sand: Airbrushed prop blur discs.

 

[Wiking]

Good evening all,
Well, the blurred prop experiment went well.. as well as I can achieve as a first-time-airbrusher.. Credit to Crimea_River for linking to the 1//32 Me-110 thread for the technique..

I used a disc of .020 clear acetate, made a paper mask with compass and basic geometry skills.. In the future I will endeavor to source .010 acetate.
I used a divider to cut the acetate, using the point to scribe the circular cuts.. This was a pain in the neck. But it worked and I will sand the edges.
The mask was the three blades' "pie shapes" equally spaced using my High School geometry skills.
I drew a centerline for each blade to aim my airbrush..
Placed the paper mask on top and built up a semi-gloss black 'blade' at the centerlines. The "blade blurs" are a little uneven, but that doesn't look unnatural to my eye.
I measured where the prop disc should sit on the spinner with a dial caliper and cut with a very small divider. The disc sits on spinner at the propeller's correct location. Important to use a divider with the screw adjustment so it doesn't slip to a different radius while being spun for the cut.
These are not yet glued in place, but a drop of cyanoacrylate should wick itself between the disc and spinner.

Cheers,
- Art

 

[fubar57]

Turned out very nice Art

 

[Wiking]

Thanks Fubar... There is a bunch of 'cleaning' up before I'll mount them permanently.. first I want to finish the rest of the fragile exterior detailing, dive brakes, antennae, defense guns, pitot tube, nav lights.. weathering is done... you can see the discs aren't in their final alignment..
Cheers,
- Art

 

[Wurger]