Plz i need some help i ruined my b29 monogram

Crimea_River said:

No I'm not mocking you, just trying to help. I guess I missed your sarcasm. My point is that sometimes it's better to stop throwing good money after bad and spend your money on the right thing.

Good luck.

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mikewint said:

Orange peel can have a number of causes. Ambient temperature - colder temps encourage the formation of orange peel. Spray in a warm room 75F or so
Thick Paint - either the paint itself is too thick or you are spraying too heavy a coat. Thin your paint, about like the viscosity of milk.
Spray a thin, light coat. Allow to dry. Pant another thin, light coat. Allow to dry. Repeat as many times as necessary.
The only other suggestion I can make is to use a LACQUER model paint in a rattle can. The hot solvents used in lacquer paints actually react with the plastic a bit almost acting like a glue. Again THIN - LIGHT coats overlapping about 1/3 or so of the previous coat and keep your distance 8 inches at least. Lacquers also cure quickly so the chances of a thick uncured layer are minimal.
Lastly the hot solvents used in lacquers need plenty of ventilation and wear a surgical mask when you spray

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Justine said:

I apologize for my nastiness before. I never talk to people like that I'm sorry. I've been sick and no sleep..and just spent hours on stupid Facebook ranting about my pro gun beliefs and I was criticized for it and even banned. Anyway sorry . If I was smart I'd throw it away

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Wurger said:

Hi Justine..

Sorry for my absence but my hospital stay had to be prolonged. Unfortunately... But I got back home today and we can try to get your model painted. All advices here are great and none of these guys here is going to make fun of you and your work. They just try to help you. However the problem is the using of different kind of paints. These rostoleum paints aren't recommended for modelling. Therefore it might be difficult to work with them. Judging by the pic you posted the paint doesn't peel off as it happens to many other kinds of paints used by modellers. The trouble is the paint that seems to be not cured fully. It happens to the such paints for some reason often . Believe me I have a couple of lifeboats for a ship model I painted with Humbrol enamels and then applied a clear gloss varnish. For the purpose I used a can of similar one to the rostoleum paints in a spray . I did that about ten years ago. And you know what, these are stil tacky , even today Just the gloss varnish was either old or storaged incorrectly. That happens to these dedicated colours for modelling too.Therefore I don't think it is a "fault" of the Tamiya masking tape. If you want you may do an experiment. Take a fresh piece of the Tamiya tape and stick it to the area painted grey at the wing top, in the same way you did that to the silver one. Then try to unstick it. Just wonder if the dark grey paint can peel off like the silver one . could you check that?
But get back to your model. If you are still going to get the model painted we may try to do it together. But it has to be done slowly and gradually. Unfortunately I can't be there to keep my eye on you working and help with painting directly. So it is very important to chat before the next step can be done.I may ask you about many things if the info is needed for making all clear, And the same at your end just ask. If you agree I'm at your disposal.

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Justine said:

Thank you so much! that's a huge help .I appreciate it. Happy Easter

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Wurger said:

To avoid the getting the glue all over the final paint a needle has to be used. You have to spill a little bit of the glue onto a piece of cardboard ot an aluminium foil and then pick a very small drop with the needle. The small drop can be applied into the hole ( slot ) for the antanna nast for instance. Another way is to use a pair of tweezers to keep the antenna mast. The part of the antenna that has to be put into the slot should be dipped in the drop of glue. Certainly the antenna mast has to be painted before gluing. Here is a nose wheel leg for my cardboard B-24. It is made of paper soaked with the Superglue and then painted with the aluminium rostoleum like paint. To attach the part to the model it is enough to apply some of glue at the top of the leg where the wire is protruding and put it it its slot.

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Justine said:

I apologize for my nastiness before. I never talk to people like that I'm sorry. I've been sick and no sleep..and just spent hours on stupid Facebook ranting about my pro gun beliefs and I was criticized for it and even banned. Anyway sorry . If I was smart I'd throw it away

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Justine said:

Thanks . I'll send you pics then but yea as of now This is just a learning project now . Being that takes pressure off of me as well .When I'm ready I'll give you a shout and send you everything I got as far as tools, supplies and what I'm about to purchase .

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mikewint said:

Not to undercut Wojtek in any way but stick with paint specifically designed for plastic models rather than Rustoleum. The Rustoleum spray itself is designed with a heavy, wide fan spray designed for large areas. IMHO it is not suitable for a small plastic model.
Try a Tamiya rattle can LACQUER paint either from their TS line like TS30 SILVER LEAF or TS83 METALLIC SILVER. There is also an AS line designed for model aircraft, AS12 is BARE METAL SILVER.
After all that your model has been through the integrity of the very plastic is probamatical.

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