Post Your Models! (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Pisis
- Start date
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net_sailor
Senior Airman
No, it is a standard short-run set from Ukrainian A-Model company. A-Model issued a lot Friedrichs in very original variants. I saw version with 3 x MG 151 in gondolas (under wings and fuselage) and another with RZ 65 rockets (I got it the last!).
->Adler, I don't make my own decals (so far
) I just buy it in the shop. I planned to print decals for my new Me 262 project (advanced scratch- conversion of Revell kit).-> Ndicki, Corsair and Hurricane are Acedemy kits. FW-190D-13 is my conversion of old Airfix set.
Lately i started a figures making. Do you want to see them?
Vince57
Airman 1st Class
Thanks for the info, netsailor; guess I'll check what A-Models have in store.
Well, Adler, you can simply overpaint clear decal sheet, either manually or using masks and airbrush; it works rather well. I don't know about printing your own decals.
Here are a few more of my models; all 1/72 as usually;
-Mitsubishi A6M2 model 11; Hasegawa, scratch and photo-etched detail parts, Falcon vacuformed canopy
-Macchi MC202: Hasegawa, scratch and photo-etched detail parts, Falcon vacuformed canopy
-Lockheed P38L: Hasegawa, photo-etched detail parts, Falcon vacuformed canopy, scratch gun compartment, Airfix figures
Well, Adler, you can simply overpaint clear decal sheet, either manually or using masks and airbrush; it works rather well. I don't know about printing your own decals.
Here are a few more of my models; all 1/72 as usually;
-Mitsubishi A6M2 model 11; Hasegawa, scratch and photo-etched detail parts, Falcon vacuformed canopy
-Macchi MC202: Hasegawa, scratch and photo-etched detail parts, Falcon vacuformed canopy
-Lockheed P38L: Hasegawa, photo-etched detail parts, Falcon vacuformed canopy, scratch gun compartment, Airfix figures
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I would think it would be great to see one of the figurines to be painted up to look like you
That is actually what I thought about doing!
I am splicing the decals to make the actual tail number of my aircraft and then I am going to do a scene with it of the aircraft landing on one of the air assaults that we did in Iraq. The full crew will be in the aircraft and the infantry that we were assaulting will be leaving the aircraft with some mud huts on the side.
Then at the bottom of the scene I am going to mount under plexi-glass a picture of the actual aircraft showing the tail number and then the crew that I flew with on that air assault.
If I dont screw it up, it will look pretty cool. That is why I am taking my time.
I was scratch building detail parts to make the aircraft interior look more realistic but I was having a hard time with making realistic seat belts that look like the real deal, but then I found this detail set that was made specifically for the model that I am using!
Very nice models up there vince!
net_sailor
Senior Airman
Adler, in Poland to make own decals we buy paper called EXPERT-CHOICE DECAL or INK JET DECAL PAPER. This is a white or transparent decal sheet in A-4 format, for laser and ink printers (sheet must be marked: "specially designed for ink/jet printers", there are also clean sheet for hand painting so be careful). So:
1. Draw what you want (stencils, markings etc.) in proper scale on Corel Draw even or Paint
2. Print your drawing on a printer (ALPS-OKI are the best printers) and leave for drying.
3. You must remember about applying a thin layer clear varnish called Microscale Liquid Decal Film (by airbrush!) on the printed decals. It will protect your markings against being cleaning up after deeping into water.
4. After varnish drying you can depp your decal into water safetly and apply on models.
1. Draw what you want (stencils, markings etc.) in proper scale on Corel Draw even or Paint
2. Print your drawing on a printer (ALPS-OKI are the best printers) and leave for drying.
3. You must remember about applying a thin layer clear varnish called Microscale Liquid Decal Film (by airbrush!) on the printed decals. It will protect your markings against being cleaning up after deeping into water.
4. After varnish drying you can depp your decal into water safetly and apply on models.
Cool thanks. Can you also like find pics online and print them on the paper?
net_sailor
Senior Airman
Very nice vince and net sailor!
net_sailor
Senior Airman
Vince57
Airman 1st Class
Thanks all;
Very useful tip to print decals netsailor; thanks.
Very useful tip to print decals netsailor; thanks.
No mate, you haven't to.Simply the net didn't work properly yesterday.Sorry for confusing Wurger. It will not happen again.
- Thread starter
- #517
Pisis
2nd Lieutenant
Good models there, Net_sailor and Ndicki!
Vince57
Airman 1st Class
Hi all,
Here are a few more shots of my 1/72 Me262A1a.
I'm intending to make a mold out of the detached Junkers 004B jet engine, to further build more pieces. I first thought about silicon molds and then pouring melted plastic inside, but I was also thinking of using resin.
Does anybody know which kind of rubber should be used to make molds for resin parts?
Thanks
Here are a few more shots of my 1/72 Me262A1a.
I'm intending to make a mold out of the detached Junkers 004B jet engine, to further build more pieces. I first thought about silicon molds and then pouring melted plastic inside, but I was also thinking of using resin.
Does anybody know which kind of rubber should be used to make molds for resin parts?
Thanks
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Very nice. I would not know how to start molds in the first place. I can not help you. Would love to learn that though, would be cool to make your own "spare" parts for when somethign does not look good on another model or it breaks.
