Recent Purchases (53 Viewers)

Picked this up in PG today for when my compressor finally kicks the bucket

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I'm not too optimistic about the air brush but the couple of reviews I've read said it worked well as long as it was cleaned well, one guy saying he's had his for three years. Its quite heavy, twice that of my Aztek and has a .35mm tip. Its also dual action
 
My current one is built the same and roamed quite a bit. I ended up taping two sheets of 400 grit together and she sits tight. My kids got me a GC for Great White and I've been waiting for something that caught my interest. This showed up and I can finally keep my growing collection of Vallejo paints together.

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Geo, I'll try not to rain on your parade to hard, but a few pointers. The airbrushes, and compressors, all have a basic design, but are made be several different manufacturers. For the Air compressors, while they may look similar, and a lot of the parts are interchangeable, there are differences in things and quality. The airbrushes have about 3 different internal designs and there is a fair amount of interchangeability between those, things like needles, tips and O rings etc, again numerous different manufacturers of said designs.

I have several different ones including the same one that you have that I also got with a CT compressor, which, by the way quit after 2 weeks. The quality of those airbrushes is pretty hit and miss, so you may have a good one, or not. Regardless of the quality issue the one thing I can say from experience is that none of them, no matter how good they are, will work as good as good brand name airbrush, and I would never under any circumstances recommend one to an airbrush newbie.

Case in point, check the color cup, I would be very surprised if it didn't look like this on the inside.
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Notice how far up inside the cup the top of the siphon tube is, and here it is compared to the badger

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You'll have a fair amount of paint left over when the airbrush can no longer siphon......Ah, but the good news is few a few bucks you can pick up a new Badger cup and use that.
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The bonus being that if it still doesn't work out for you , for a few more bucks you can buy everything you don't see here and I'll send you everything you do,
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Or you could just run out and buy a new Gravity feed..........
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Thanks Tim. The airbrush is just a "bonus". The compressor came from Canadian Tire. I have an Iwata Eclipse HP-CS for a backup for when my Aztek packs it in. If you had joined our story a few years ago you would have found out that I had the Aztek for about 15 years before I got the courage to fire it up 7 or 8 models ago. That's what's going on with the Iwata right now; trying to find a fool proof method of cleaning it without damaging fine thread etc. I had a video that I watched that was pretty much bang on to what I wanted but idiot me forgot to bookmark it :happy:
 
fubar57 said:
Thanks Tim. The airbrush is just a "bonus". The compressor came from Canadian Tire. I have an Iwata Eclipse HP-CS for a backup for when my Aztek packs it in. If you had joined our story a few years ago you would have found out that I had the Aztek for about 15 years before I got the courage to fire it up 7 or 8 models ago. That's what's going on with the Iwata right now; trying to find a fool proof method of cleaning it without damaging fine thread etc. I had a video that I watched that was pretty much bang on to what I wanted but idiot me forgot to bookmark it :happy:
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Go back into your "history" and see if you have a search feature. "airbrush"or "clean" may hook ya' right up.
 
Ok, I see, that's interesting. Had to go look at that airbrush to see what you were on about, if it's the tip you are worried about the easy answer is to put it on the end of the needle and use the needle, which should be able to move freely in the brush, to keep the tip centered so it won't cross thread. I generally ignore all the best Advise so what I do is to pull the needle out the back every color change and at the end of the session. First I put a bit of either alcohol or lacquer thinner in, and use an old paint brush to clean of the needle and loosen up any paint, then spray that out, pull the needle, and flush it out using a pipette stuck in the cup exit,then add a bit more to the cup and use a Qtip and give it all a good rub down, as well as the needle. Every so often I also give the needle a bit of a lube job, doing that also helps prevent any dried paint from sticking on it. If I need to clean the tip out of my Sotar and 100 Fine I use Paper Points, for the medium I have a couple of reamers which work well enough, as well a good back flush through the tip with a pipette will sometimes clean out any clogs. Badger are a bad habit for me so I'm not sure how well all that would work for your Iwata, but I do find keeping things clean as I go has saved a lot of clean up and issues later on.
 
nsmekanik said:
Ok, I see, that's interesting. Had to go look at that airbrush to see what you were on about, if it's the tip you are worried about the easy answer is to put it on the end of the needle and use the needle, which should be able to move freely in the brush, to keep the tip centered so it won't cross thread. I generally ignore all the best Advise so what I do is to pull the needle out the back every color change and at the end of the session. First I put a bit of either alcohol or lacquer thinner in, and use an old paint brush to clean of the needle and loosen up any paint, then spray that out, pull the needle, and flush it out using a pipette stuck in the cup exit,then add a bit more to the cup and use a Qtip and give it all a good rub down, as well as the needle. Every so often I also give the needle a bit of a lube job, doing that also helps prevent any dried paint from sticking on it. If I need to clean the tip out of my Sotar and 100 Fine I use Paper Points, for the medium I have a couple of reamers which work well enough, as well a good back flush through the tip with a pipette will sometimes clean out any clogs. Badger are a bad habit for me so I'm not sure how well all that would work for your Iwata, but I do find keeping things clean as I go has saved a lot of clean up and issues later on.
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I do alot of that and even more when dealing with acrylics!When using enamels for cleaning 1 spray of thinner,1 spray of lacquer and a last spray of thinner if you leave the lacquer in the gun it can harden gun to the needle so a flush and I still leave the needle 1/2 way out till next use.The procedure may be a bit of overkill but I lost one gun to a needle hardening with acrylics which Andy mentioned could of soaked it in ammonia. ;) Kevin
 
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Your magazine did need a bookmark after all
 
Wurger said:
...But no swastiks printed in the decal sheet.
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It's Revell, so no surprise there!
 
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