RNZAF Corsair Build

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Yeah, Daniel. Just thinking about little sis trying to pedal the weight of the thing. Or are you going to use bike chain and cog and gear?
Can't ait to see it finished and painted!
 
Hi Terry no weight wasn't the problem it was her reaching the pedals so hopefully that shouldn't be much to worry about :)

Screaming I've though about woodworking as a carrer I don't really know yet

Right .Now I need some professional help on paint

Need to know the colours used on this model,because hopefully all going well my corsair should look almost identicle to the colours of this except with out the awesome weathering because I suck at weathering.If I can I'd like to use Tamiya acrylics ,

heres the model,source unknown
 

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One of the 'Corsair' guys will be better at telling you the colour numbers etc., Daniel, although that model looks to be in 'standard' scheme with fading from weathering.
If you are talking about the painting of the wooden bird, I'd tend not to use acrylics. First, using model paints would prove horrendously expensive, as you'd need loads of jars to cover the 'pedal-plane', and second, I don't think it would stand up to the wear and tear. I think that synthetic enamels would be better, which you should be able to get from an auto paint suppliers. They should be able to mix to your spec, but tell them whether you're spraying or brushing, so they can get the viscosity right. Another alternative would be auto paint spray cans, not neccessarily the finishing colours, but possibly some of the primers/undercoats. whichever you choose, if you can only get gloss finish, you can always give it a coat of matt/semi matt varnish, which will also provide a hard prortctive coat, protecting against chipping and sunlight.
 
That is just the standard paint scheme of Dark Sea Blue on top, medium blue under that and white on the bottom, it's just heavily faded. You'd have to ask somebody else about the roundel colours, but the numbers are just normal yellow. Here's what I suggest you do for painting. Don't use the model paints, but buy 1 bottle of each colour you need, and then print off the roundels. Then, take them into a hardware store, and they can match the colours for you. I'm not the person to ask about what kind of paints you should use, but I think Terry covered that.

I know this isn't the plane you're doing, but it gives a better idea of the colours, but still use the ones I listed above, and print off the roundels separately. And the bottom of the part of the wing that folds is the medium blue. I know it's not the best description, and if you need any clarification, let me know. It's the part of the wing you can see in the picture, but the rest past the fold line is white.

102_5.jpg
 
NZ5440 was painted in a faded US Navy 4 tone scheme,
the Cowling ring was taken off a Glossy Sea Blue painted machine, and the Panel with Audrey was of a less faded 4 tone machine.

The Name was in white, not yellow, like the prop hub and propeller cuffs.

Miss matching panels was common among RNZAF F4U's as hey were generally worn out hand me downs which the Servicing units brought back to life.

NZ5440.gif
 
Good info there, Phase. Got me interested in Corsairs now! First time I got close to one, which was 'secretley' hangared with the BBMF in the early '80's, I was gobsmacked at how big it was, compared to the diminutive Spit V alongside. Sitting in the cockpit, I remember thinking "How the F**** do you see over this long nose?!!"
Any recomendations for a decent (but not mega-expensive) 1/48th scale kit anyone? For WW2 versions, I'll have to take your advice on model numbers, eg F4-U1 or whatever! Somewhere, I've got a Scale Aircraft Modelling mag article from the 80's, covering the Corsair in FAA and Commonwealth service, if it's any help to anybody? Not sure on the copyright requirements if I post the drawings etc though. Perhaps a mod/admin could advise?
Terry.
 
Thanks for the info guys

It's greatly appreciated Catch,Terry and Phas3e and nice pic Phas3e!oh and sorry Catch your pic isn't showing

Hunter il sort you out via msn

Terry would this work ,I really want to airbrush it!!!! really want to use the big bottle for once!!!plus my dad's paying for the paint!!!(he doesn't no that yet)

Couple of base coats of white enamel then go over that with the arcrylic?

I don't want to use enamels again ever in my airbrush last time I did it clogged one of the tips

Would it work? It's not like I'm not gona leave it out in the rain

I've been up nearly 24 hours so bed time soon and it's only 4:15!
 
Thanks Heinz

nice comments are always appreciated

And Hunter what the hell is dry-brushing?

is that um getting a brush and just brush and brush?
 
Sure Daniel, using the model acrylics will work. But, as I said, it will probably chip easily, and, buying it in model-size bottles will cost a fortune, whoever's paying! Here's another idea, if you get the synthetic paint I mentioned from an auto-paint outlet, they may hire spray guns too. Or, instead of investing the money in a litre or two of Tamiya acrylic, why not look at buying, or hiring, a cheap spray gun compressor kit. Nowadays, you can get cheap DIY kit from some outlets, such as 'Tool Mart' or the equivalent in NZ. Even Aldi, a German small grocery supermarket chain with branches in the UK, have been selling this type of kit for the equivalent of about $120 NZ. That way, you (and your Dad) will also have the kit for other jobs., such as painting the garage door etc. If you want to use your airbrush, given it's got a wide enough spray area, don't worry about using enamels. As long as it's thinned about 60/40, or more, and you blow through loads of thinners when finished, it should be OK. But, I understand your reasons for not wanting to do it. Therefore, get the spray gun gear, and use your airbrush to 'mist' on some weathering. You could, of course, 'coach-paint' the Corsair, using a medium-sized brush (up to 2 inch), with about 10% thinner in the paint. Undercoat, two top coats and a varnish, it'll be hard as nails and a super finish.
PS Dry brushing is using a brush that only just has paint on it, almost dry, and just touching over an area. It might be too big an area on your wooden bird, but, if it'll help, I'll e-mail you the brush-painting guide I did for Rochie. It's difficult to explain quickly, and really needs a demo.
 
Thanks Terry

So is this method ok?

couple of base coats of white enamel then arcrylics then put a clear varnish over it?
 
Yes, that should work OK, but it's still a costly way to do it! You can even use normal household undercoat first. Just give it a light rub down with fine wet n dry, when it is TOTALLY dried.
 
Thanks for your help Terry ,much appreciated

One of my uncle's got his own painting business so he should be able to help me out

So you suggest Me buying/hiring a compressor and spray gun and use enamel?

Do you think I could thin down the acrylic?

Will it be that bad if I do it my way and varnish it a couple of times?
 
It'll work, but it will be VERY expensive! The cost of enough jars of Tamiya paints would work out at about £140 in the UK, that's roughly $300NZ to $350NZ !!!
A litre of synthetic enamel ranges between £9 ($25NZ) and £15 ($35NZ). You can even use ordinary household gloss paint. You don't have to get the exact shade, you can mix it yourself. For example, Royal Blue and black, to get the darker shades, the same with white for lighter shades, and so on.
I'm guessing you want to use the Tamiya acrylics because they are the right shade, and you're used to them but, believe me, it's an expensive way to go!
When I had my old Land Rover, I coach-painted it in synthetic enamel. Three coats, covering approximately 300 square feet. It looked like polished glass, in dark green. Cost (OK it was 11 years ago)? £20 ($45NZ) total, including the undercoat!
 
Looking better all the time. Question... are you going to support the pedals
just outboard of each pedal ? Looks like a real weak spot in the propulsion
system. A hard push forward of either pedal and......

I guess, now, retractable gear is out of the question !!

Charles
 
Roaming? You are my hero, buddy. But I do have some real concern that it looks like you used MDF for structural members. If so, that's not good.

1) Prime and seal the whole thing as if your life depended upon it. If MDF gets wet, it will turn into limp cardboard.

2) Avoid drilling holes, countersinking, or compromising any MDF structure. If you do, you are only asking for a major collapse.

It's easy being an armchair critique, but I admire your prowess. If you attempt her again, I would suggest that your longerons be hardwood or plywood oriented horizontally. That is where the main load will be ( perpendicular to fore to aft). Right now she looks like her main weakness is ability to absorb vertical flex loads (e.g., a seated rider over bumps).

She's is a beauty my friend.
 
Airframes said:
It'll work, but it will be VERY expensive! The cost of enough jars of Tamiya paints would work out at about £140 in the UK, that's roughly $300NZ to $350NZ !!!
A litre of synthetic enamel ranges between £9 ($25NZ) and £15 ($35NZ). You can even use ordinary household gloss paint. You don't have to get the exact shade, you can mix it yourself. For example, Royal Blue and black, to get the darker shades, the same with white for lighter shades, and so on.
I'm guessing you want to use the Tamiya acrylics because they are the right shade, and you're used to them but, believe me, it's an expensive way to go!
When I had my old Land Rover, I coach-painted it in synthetic enamel. Three coats, covering approximately 300 square feet. It looked like polished glass, in dark green. Cost (OK it was 11 years ago)? £20 ($45NZ) total, including the undercoat!
Click to expand...

alright screw it Il use your method

Thanks for the help it's much appreciated
 
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