Vic Balshaw
Major General
Have to agree, this is a special place with so much willingness to help, have a bit of fun and be involved in what others are doing. One big family.
Stripped down Mosquito MK IV 1/32
- Thread starter BertUS
- Start date
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Crimea_River
Marshal
Any part of the rudder that is in front of the hinge point will swing outwards. I have not been able to find a good diagram to demonstrate this but a horn balance is an exaggerated example of this.
Airframes
pictures of the tail area is much clearer than mine but the aircraft is missing the channel that houses the chain drive for the elevator trim.- Thread starter
- #205
BertUS
Senior Airman
Ha Andy
Yes, I noticed the missing part, but also the balancer on the right is missing. I also see that I wasn't correct into the pivot on the rudderrod. It's not flat as I had made. so I must do some little,little, little work to get the edge higher.
But really It's a lot of fun to draw the parts and pinting................I like it more then the oldschool scratching but, believe me, it's not the lacy part , the drawing, trying, printing, drawing it again cost even the same time as working with knive and Evergreen. Beside, I'm not that good, I can make all the small details on the parts
Yes, I noticed the missing part, but also the balancer on the right is missing. I also see that I wasn't correct into the pivot on the rudderrod. It's not flat as I had made. so I must do some little,little, little work to get the edge higher.
But really It's a lot of fun to draw the parts and pinting................I like it more then the oldschool scratching but, believe me, it's not the lacy part , the drawing, trying, printing, drawing it again cost even the same time as working with knive and Evergreen. Beside, I'm not that good, I can make all the small details on the parts
- Thread starter
- #207
BertUS
Senior Airman
Yeah, great pic. I see their is some work on the rudder trim unit. I see the lose connectionrods
Nice work so far!
- Thread starter
- #210
BertUS
Senior Airman
Okay then, this week, mainly in the weekend between the companies, only digitally scratched.
I have been drawing the rear wing, including moving rudder surface and center section. The only tools I have are a top and side view (so there are really differences between various drawings, even if it is the same plane) and a few photos.
Now that doesn't seem like model building, but trust me, you spend as much time drawing as you do cutting. Especially with the drawing level I have. So it's a good thing that experienced draftsmen can't look into my files, which thunder with misery directly from their chairs
Anyway, because I want to start printing anyway, the moving part must of course be right and you can test that nicely in my drawing program. So I've had a deviation of 0.5 mm somewhere, because the rudder surface runs a bit backwards, but on the central pivot point in the middle section is otherwise good. I made a little YT video of that
click here
There will be two more horns on the middle axis which are operated by cables
I have been drawing the rear wing, including moving rudder surface and center section. The only tools I have are a top and side view (so there are really differences between various drawings, even if it is the same plane) and a few photos.
Now that doesn't seem like model building, but trust me, you spend as much time drawing as you do cutting. Especially with the drawing level I have. So it's a good thing that experienced draftsmen can't look into my files, which thunder with misery directly from their chairs
Anyway, because I want to start printing anyway, the moving part must of course be right and you can test that nicely in my drawing program. So I've had a deviation of 0.5 mm somewhere, because the rudder surface runs a bit backwards, but on the central pivot point in the middle section is otherwise good. I made a little YT video of that
click here
There will be two more horns on the middle axis which are operated by cables
- Thread starter
- #212
BertUS
Senior Airman
Yesterday I had the printer make a test print to check some things, including the position of the rudder surface in relation to the rear wing, but I still have some problems with a deformation of the print
(don't look at the end of the stirring surface, due to the speed and resolution of the printer, these deformations can occur. This is solved by positioning the models slightly differently on the printing surface)
So I will also make a slot for a strip of brass, with this I can prevent bending and I immediately built in a bit of strength.
In the photo below you can also see the 2 separate pieces for the large axis that runs through the wing. This is neatly drawn on the drawing and that is how it is printed. I can then guide a brass rod through this that also provides strength
(don't look at the end of the stirring surface, due to the speed and resolution of the printer, these deformations can occur. This is solved by positioning the models slightly differently on the printing surface)
So I will also make a slot for a strip of brass, with this I can prevent bending and I immediately built in a bit of strength.
In the photo below you can also see the 2 separate pieces for the large axis that runs through the wing. This is neatly drawn on the drawing and that is how it is printed. I can then guide a brass rod through this that also provides strength
Good work so far!
- Thread starter
- #215
BertUS
Senior Airman
I often write it
choices, choices, choices...................what is wisdom?
Why this hesitating attitude, you might wonder when you see this photo
Well, the next picture makes it a bit clearer, I think
On the first photos you can see the connecting pieces with which I have attached the rudder surface and rear wing, this to prevent deformation, so that worked fine in itself, but after removing both surfaces, something still broke, well, the ribs are less than a mm thick and after curing things still started to deform, so they were bent. In addition, the hinge idea was what I had and what worked on a digital level, really didn't work because of the size, or the lack of size.
So I had to make something different, so it's old school fitting and measuring again, but it worked, at least the hinge, but because of the deformation the tip did not go well.
So I am now at a very big intersection of decisions
- Drawing the ribs thicker, hopefully creating a bit more strength to prevent deformation and slightly reduce breakage
- Printing only the wing bars and the ribs from plastics
- Make the whole old school, I can print the ribs on paper for the size, but I think I'll need something thicker evergreen
use to get the bulge.
- just continue drawing things digitally and have another build (not the most favorite option)
I am leaning towards option 3. Much more work, but then I am in control. I like the middle section (the square frame and the axle behind it). I think the water washable resin is just not strong enough to stay straight and I don't want to switch to the normal one because of the Ipa stuff.
The advantage is that I do have a very good example and I can still print the small details
choices, choices, choices...................what is wisdom?
Why this hesitating attitude, you might wonder when you see this photo
Well, the next picture makes it a bit clearer, I think
On the first photos you can see the connecting pieces with which I have attached the rudder surface and rear wing, this to prevent deformation, so that worked fine in itself, but after removing both surfaces, something still broke, well, the ribs are less than a mm thick and after curing things still started to deform, so they were bent. In addition, the hinge idea was what I had and what worked on a digital level, really didn't work because of the size, or the lack of size.
So I had to make something different, so it's old school fitting and measuring again, but it worked, at least the hinge, but because of the deformation the tip did not go well.
So I am now at a very big intersection of decisions
- Drawing the ribs thicker, hopefully creating a bit more strength to prevent deformation and slightly reduce breakage
- Printing only the wing bars and the ribs from plastics
- Make the whole old school, I can print the ribs on paper for the size, but I think I'll need something thicker evergreen
use to get the bulge.
- just continue drawing things digitally and have another build (not the most favorite option)
I am leaning towards option 3. Much more work, but then I am in control. I like the middle section (the square frame and the axle behind it). I think the water washable resin is just not strong enough to stay straight and I don't want to switch to the normal one because of the Ipa stuff.
The advantage is that I do have a very good example and I can still print the small details
Vic Balshaw
Major General
Being a total ignorant in the art of 3D printing and looking at what you are doing reminds me of the days when forming and building the wing or fuselage structure of a model glider using balsa strips and sheeting. In order to get the wings perfectly straight without any twists or kinks, one pined the structure to a firm flat bed while it set. Could you not apply a similar idea to your ribbing while it cures.
- Thread starter
- #218
BertUS
Senior Airman
It could be a good idear. The curing proces is not more then put the model into a case with UV light and let it there for 2 a 3 minutes. So, the platform isn't that big I can made something bigs. But pinned it down, it 's not bad, I can give it a try
Crimea_River
Marshal
Good dedication there Bert.
Lovely work so far!
