Wellington advice wanted

[batcocan]

Hi Trackend,
Try these guys for decals
CanMilAir Decals:
Apparently they're the best in Canada and will do special orders.
BTW 429 Bison was stood back up at 8 Wing Trenton not to long ago-I see
their C-17 Globmasters quite frequently-As well my bosses brother was their CO
back in the 90's
Cheers,
Matthew

 

[Wurger]

Just had a butchers wurger brilliant thanks a million I have to be carefull how much time i spend on here as Im at work

You'r welcome Mate... He he he.... I hope your boss is an aviation fan as well.

 

[A4K]

Thats terrific info A4K Ive not seen that before thanks a load for that.

No worries mate!

...and Wojtek.. )))

 

[Airframes]

Hi Lee. I'll get started on some form of guide in the next day or so, and let you know when it's done. I'll post it in PDF, as it might be useful to others too. BTW, I believe Trumpeter produce more than one Wellington kit in 1/48th scale, and I think one of them is a MkIII - I'll check and let you know.
Terry.

 

[Airframes]

Yep, confirmed.Trumpeter 1/48th scale Wellingtom Mk III, available at Hannant's, The Avaiation Hobby Shop, and Model Hobbies. The latter has the best deal, @ £44.03 plus £3.30 shipping, followed by TAHS at £49.99, free shipping. Hannant's price is £48.93 plus shipping. All of these are well established, reputable companies, and I've dealt with all three over the years without problem.

 

[trackend]

Bang on AF thats looking like the route to obtaining my kit now Im going to ask more stupid questions of you guys
A mate from work has just dropped of a (see pic) spray unit and some bits his boy had some time ago but no longer wants.
The tweezers are fine so no problems there.
The spray unit is run from an air canister and made by Badger are they any good ? or would it be a waste of time to try and use it. Also in the bag I found these (see pic again) little black and grey pots what are they for? and a packet of needle reamers are they worth having?. Oh and the wife just gave me 10 scalpel blades (not in the neck just before you say it). not a bad days haul for nothing he he
thanks guys

Told you Id be asking loads of dopy questions
Im now going to settle down with a beer and read all the great stuff you guys have been sending me

Cheers lads
Lee

 

[Lucky13]

Air canisters aren't too bad if you can't afford a compressor, but you'll have to refill or buy new ones once in a while, that's a down side and that the air pressure goes down towards the end. Badger are good airbrushes though.

I think that the other two things are paint cups to use with the air brush as well, think that they are for another type of airbrush though, since they seem to be of the side mounted type...

Just my two pence old boy...

 

[Wurger]

I agreee with Jan... but the most important thing is to have a possibility of stopping the air running when you stop painting.There should be a special manual cut-out with the air cans.If not your airbrush shouldn't get the pressured air when it is not used.I dont remember if Badger is like that but it is better to check it.It'll let you to save a small amout of money.

 

[Airframes]

The fitting on the end of the airbrush hose is an air and pressure regulator for use with propellant cans. This means you can 'turn off' the air supply when required, or when fitting/removing the regulator from the can. The airbrush itself is fine, I've used a similar model for about twenty years until recently. If you look at the tip, probably on the underside, there should be a finely-engraved letter, either 'F', 'M', or 'H'. This is the nozzle size, Fine, Medium, and Heavy. The 'Fine' nozzle will allow a spray pattern down to about 4 or 5mm and up to about 20mm, whilst the medium is about 9mm to 30mm; it's unlikely to find a 'Heavy' nozzle these days. The small black tubs are, as jan said, paint cups for a different airbrush.
Using propellant cans is ok, but they do suffer from a fairly quick drop in pressure, which a quick shake can sometimes cure, and can have a tendency to pulse, causing 'spitting'. Also, they tend to work out expensie, at around £7 or more per can. On a model the size of the 1/48th scale Wellington, you would probably need two to three cans to complete the job, as the remaining 15% or so of air in each can will possibly not deliver controlled pressure for spraying, and will be needed for cleaning the air brush and practice.
If you decide to use the airbrush, I strongly recommend a lot of practice first, possibly using kiddies water colours or ink, to save on paint costs. Get used to the control and 'feel' of the brush, and the effects of the trigger.
Considering the cost of propellant cans used per model built, it is well worth considering a simple, inexpensive compressor. You can obtain one of these for around £40, as you don't need a 'professional', all singing all dancing unit to meet your requirements. A top - quality compressor will set you back somewhere in the region of £90 to £200, but remember, these are designed for protracted and hard use in such places as design studios, graphic artists studios etc, and are rwally an overkill for the average modelling use.
A couple of outlets for inexpensive compressors are Model Hobbies, and Everythingairbrush.com
I hope this helps a bit Lee, but be careful - once the modelling bug bites, it never heals!

 

[trackend]

Ok as research seems to be the initial phase to building this model I shall take myself and my camera to RAF Hendon as this wellington is on display there. I am also still hunting for the camo scheme for 429 squadron wellington III's in 1943.
I shall send off for theTrumpeter 1:48 kit however and gather all the items I'll need over the next month or so and I shall keep reading a really good techique book Wurger sent me and I know I have more instructions to come for other guys. so lots more reading and practice before I even start.
I have found a small airbrush compressor for sale on ebay that is very nearly new so I shall be biding on that have a look see what you think guys
Airbrush compressor on eBay (end time 02-Jul-09 20:52:06 BST)

 

[Airframes]

The compressor looks ok Lee. Microflame used to do a range of compressors for studio and modelling work, but I believe they were absorbed by another company a few years back. It appears to have a standard outlets, so you'd need an adaptor for your Badger 'brush, which should be around £5 to £8 maximum. You could also fir a water trap / pressure regulator to the outlet if required, at around £16, both of the above available from the address i provided, everythingairbrush.com
Consider the cost of a suitable, brand new compressor, before bidding too high - I reckon a maximum of £50 for this second hand unit would be the limit, and then there's the carriage to consider.
Bear in mind that the (complete) Wellington at Hendon is a T10 (used in 'The Dambuster' movie BTW), which has detail differences compared to the MkIII, but will prove enormously helpful for general detail etc.
I'll see if I can assemble some bits and pieces of detail shots on Wellingtons for you, and I think I might have the Squadron Signal book too, on PDF; I'll be in touch when I know what I've got!!

 

[trackend]

Cheers AF mate
I am determined to not rush doing this project so would say buying a cheap airfix kit or simlar be best so I can hone the skills required to make a fair job of the final kit build or with care is it possible to be reasonably successful on the first build out
If say I practice with a spray gun on plastic items would it be sufficient to get the required skills, or do you need an actual kit in order to aquire the stroking skills for model spraying
The thing is if it means getting a better gun and compressor say £60-£100 in order to end up with something worth looking at will be noticable better than I could achieve with a brush or the canister gun I already have this I dont mind but £100 would buy nearly all the paint, brushes, filler, glue and the Trumpeter model so would it be a false economy to spend that sort of dosh.

I know it all sounds rather stupid, question wise but it isnt costing me anything to ask them

 

[Airframes]

It's a very good idea to buy an inexpensive kit, perhaps not too simple, to be in line with the larger scale Wellington when you get it. Use this to practice your assembly skills, and for practice and experience in painting the smaller detail parts; it can the be used for practice sessions with the airbrush, to get used to managing around angles, perhaps some basic masking etc. But first, do as already suggested, and become familiar with the airbrush by just practicing on paper, card, the wall, a passing 'scally', anything, using the kiddies water color type paints suggested. These can be obtained in (I think) half-litre bottles, from most of the larger toy shops, and are available in most of the basic, bright colours - ideal for practicing.They will just need thinning, with water, to the approximate consistency/viscosity of milk.
As to the purchase of an airbrush and compressor, only you can decide on the viability, and it's like any other tool purchase. You need to ask 'Will it do this first important job, and will I use it again in the future?' The answer to the first question is 'Yes', and the second question will be 'Possiby'. As an aviation enthusisast, once you've built and painted your first really good model, you will probably want to do more, therefore the airbrush will be a good investment for the future. After all, it isn't going to decay or rot whilst being stored. The address I provided can supply a decent compressor and quality, inexpensive, fine-line airbrush for around £70 total, so it might be worth careful consideration. Again, this will not be needed until the model is almost finished, which will give you time, and prevent a substantial outlay all in one go.
As for the colour scheme for your Unle's 'Wimpey', that will almost certainly be the standard Bomber Command scheme of the period, and I'll include some pics, and hopefully profiles, in the stuff I put together for you.

 

[trackend]

Thanks very much AF,
Wurger sent me a book that is very good so with yours and his help things are looking good I may be opening a new chapter in my hobbys folder. Im getting back into serious photography so to that end Im re joining a camera club to get the most out of my kit so with that and the model construction when I retire in three or so years I'll have something to keep the old noodle ticking over nicely.
all the best Lee

 

[Airframes]

Sounds good Lee, and the two go well together. Model photography can be a very interesting diversion, which can test the skills and allow a heck of a lot of creativity, even without using 'Photoshop' or similar programmes. I'm still in the process of writing a basic guide on this subject, so if you want any help, just yell!
Terry.

 

[trackend]

Cheers Terry
Ive done a fair bit of table top in my time even made my own light box once

I have looked at several reviews and completed models of the Trumpeter Wellington MKIII and it is by far the best of the bunch so thats my choice.

Well the research is coming along good Ive been looking up the interior colours and have discovered that in the uk doped cloth was most commonly coated on the inside with a red stiffener Luck would have it that i have two swatches from a Stringbag.
One (see image) has the lacing attachment and were it laid against the support the original hue is still fairly clear so I intend to match this for the Wellington's interior then pick out the geodesic framing in the appropriate colour weather its cockpit green or some other colour I have yet to find out.

Oh and another question what is your opinion (should I be unable to get the correct ones) of inkjet water slide decal sheets? are they a viable alternative. I have a good quality printer and cad package but I was wondering with the need to use (according to the video instructions) 3 layers of spray laquer as a fixative if this makes the decals too thick any thoughts would be helpful
thanks Lee

 

[Airframes]

Far as I know Lee, the metal framework was in Cockpit Green, although I have seen pics and movie footage where it is possible that it was sometimes lacqured bare aluminium. I'll se what I can find out to confirm the colour.
Everything I've seen regarding inkjet decal papers has been ok, in fact I'm about to start making some of my own decals. Bear in mind that, unless you have an Alps printer, you can't print white, although with a bit of thought, some requirements for white can be 'fudged'. There are both clear and white ink jet decal papers, so anything with a white background will mostly be ok. I haven't done it yet, but I'm guessing any stable, clear varnish, even Johnson's Klear', should be ok to seal and 'fix' the printed image. I used to make decals on the old fashioned adhesive labels forty odd years ago, and seal them with clear varnish, and it worked fine.

 

[trackend]

Ok thats good info AF
cheers

 

[Catch22]

Testor's has a decal making kit which we just bought. They have a rattle can of bonder that you spray onto the decals that your print from your inkjet. Haven't tried it yet though.

 

[trackend]

Ill bear that in mind C22 thanks. Ive sent off for the clear and white decal IJP sheets as astandby incase i cant locate some talior made ones I require but if they are not successfull I'll be interested to see how you purchase fathoms out.