I think that is one of our big problems today, Mike, is the mass access to "smart" cars.
And with this influx of smart cars, comes a whole generation of dumbed down drivers who's extense of mechanical knowledge is limited to knowing how to put fuel in it (and even then, barely).
Years ago, I had a 1919 Metz Express truck and to operate that machine, a person really needed to know what all was going on mechanically and had a real desire to drive it. It was alot of work, seriously.
The small flat-head 4 did not have alot of compression, so starting it was relatively simply: by crank. But, before you did, you had to set the points and the throttle - both found as levers mounted to the center of the steering wheel. Then you set the choke to cold (or opened it according to the engine temp) and then switched on the magneto.
* At this point, it's a great idea to be sure it's out of gear and the parking brake is firmly set, too. *
Pull the crank handle out of the tool storage and insert it through the hole in the valance (below the radiator) into the crown cup and then move it into a good position that will both allow you a good hefty pull and to be at an angle where a kickback won't break your arm/wrist/face. Note how I said "pull"? One of the most common ways to get injured, is to push the crank handle - that's a huge setup for a hospital bill. *IF* the engine starts AND everything goes according to plan, the radiused slots in the crown cup will push the end of the crank handle out and clear. I used to have a rubber "O" ring fitted to the edge of the crank hole, because it was a pretty violent event when it came clear and I didn't like the paint being chipped around the edges.
If the drive will be during the day, the headlamps and tail lamp won't be needed, however, if it's evening, then you must light the lamps with a match, as they used calcium carbide. Hopefully it's not windy - otherwise it'll take a little time to get this process accomplished.
Now, let's take this beast for a drive!
The parking brake is released by compressing the arm on the brake handle and pulling back a little, so the ratchet releases. To put it in gear, you have to depress the arm that is attached to the floor shifter - and by saying clutch, it simply releases the pressure between the drive coupling - there are no syncros in the gearbox.
Now swing the fuel lever downward (remember, it's in the center of the steering wheel?) and off you go. If you are going to reach an incline, better have it in the middle gear range and a good run...as the engine starts to load, you should advance the points by swinging the lever down (this is the shorter lever on the steering wheel) and you should be able to make it - unless this is San Fransisco - and then God help you if you have to come to a stop on one of those hills. And those brakes...you have a footpedal that slows you down - and the reason why the emergency brake is called that? Is because back in the day, the emergency brake was located at the output of the gearbox (either a disc or more commonly, a drum) and if the main brakes, which were originally stacked leather pushing against a drum on the inner side of the drive-wheels, failed (which they did - quite often) you could grab the E-brake and give it a hefty pull and get things under control. Hopefully.
It was not uncommon back in the day to have a religious artifact in the vehicle (Cross, Rosary, St. Christopher medallion) and/or have the vehicle blessed - it was needed, trust me.
So in a nutshell...driving today almost has nothing in common with nearly a century ago...