1/32 Bf 109F-4/Trop Stab II./JG 27 (1 Viewer)

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I can't get my butt in gear on my Hornet, but I've been eyeing the 1/32 Hasegawa Bf 109F-4/Trop in my stash. I have some Eagle Edition decals and will likely be doing one of the following two planes. I'm having a hard time deciding between them (or potentially other ones that pop up), and while I'm leaning towards the first one, I may just have to put it to a vote!

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The only start I've gotten is getting the canopy parts off of the sprues, and I've already run into a couple of problems.

First off, I know on the port windscreen there is a part that opens. The Eduard mask I have has you leave a small gap where the break in the two panels would be. Should there be any paint there? Same thing on the sides of the canopy. It would have you paint bars, but from what I've seen it should just be clear.

Sorry for the picture quality, but it should get the point across.

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Second issue. As you've probably noticed, there are a couple notches out of the bottom. That's my doing, trying to remove a couple of those ejector pin thingies. I changed my tactic on the other side and it isn't damaged, but what's a good way to fix this?
 
You can putty those breaks Cory as they are in the canopy frame that you're going to paint anyway. I'd suggest you use a file to smooth the dried putty and be very careful not to mar the clear area. The 109F had a sliding glass frame in the hinged canopy so there shouldn't be a frame there.

EDIT: The line, often mistaken for a frame, would actually be the overlapping panes of glass and this feature was used on the top glazing as well. As for the one on the port side of the windscreen, there was a removable panel here, port side only, though I'm not sure of the purpose. The line suggested by the Eduard mask would represent the thin brace on this panel:

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Thanks for the tip Andy. I plan on putting the masks on before I start trying to fill those spots to minimize any danger of damaging what needs to be clear.

Oh, so there shouldn't be a frame on top either then? Alright, easy enough. I wonder why they later went back to using more frames? And alright, I'll leave the line on the windscreen. Though I'm guessing that it wouldn't have the outside colour applied, so once I paint the gray, I should tape over it? Sorry for so many questions, but I've only ever actually built one 109 and that was years ago, and not built well.
 
There's a sliding panel in the roof of the canopy Cory, with a 'handle' made from a rectangle of clear Perspex, very like the sliding cab windows on older Land Rovers. The sliding side panels were similar, but had a metal knob as a handle, later aircraft having a moulded Perspex knob. (both of the 'handles' are visible in the photo Andy posted.)
The panel in the port side of the windscreen is a 'clear vision' panel, hinged at top and bottom, the rear part of which opened inwards. As with the canopy panels, there is no frame between the two parts of the Perspex.
 
I believe the panels were done away with with the introduction of pressurized cockpits on the early G models and the heavier, framed canopies were then retained. The windscreen on the F was often supplemented by an externally attached armoured glass panel and this was also incorporated within the newer canopy on the G.
 
It's surprising how many model companies get it wrong with earlier '109 canopies. Even the relatively new Airfix 1/48th scale Bf109E has a frame on the side panels of the opening canopy. Apparently, it was modelled from the RAF Museum's 'Emil' - which had it's missing canopy replaced with one from a 'Buchon', which is the same as a '109 G , with the central frame. Why the researchers don't check, and ask questions if needed, is beyond me - there's more information and photos available now, together with real aircraft, than there were 30 or 40 years ago, so there's no shortage of detailed information.
 

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