1/32 Hasegawa Fw 190D-9 "Black One"
- Thread starter JKim
- Start date
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Robert Porter
Senior Master Sergeant
Looks great! That PE folding job is fantastic and not something I am up to yet. Good grief that has to be the very definition of "fiddly bits"!
Crimea_River
Marshal
Good work John.
turbo
Staff Sergeant
Looks great John. Those misaligned locating pins were a PITA!
Great work so far John!
SANCER
Senior Master Sergeant
Looking great so far John.
- Thread starter
- #287
JKim
Senior Master Sergeant
Thanks for stopping by guys!
The Dora build continues as I add a brake line to the G-Factor gear struts. I used stiff wire mounted with small sections of brass tubing. The last section of brake line will be added with lead wire after the gear legs have been painted.
Fast forward a couple of days and the gear legs are painted. The paint chips very easily off the metal legs... perhaps Mr Surfacer 1000 isn't the best primer for this metal. The data plate decals are from the Eagle Editions decal sheet. The legs were painted various shades of RLM02 and dirtied up with a dark wash. You can see a little chip off the black brake line that needs to be fixed.
The actuator arms have been given a similar treatment.
The insides of the landing gear doors have been painted as well. I will still add some weathering to the landing gear components before I call them finished.
The radiator face and the insides of the cowl flaps have been painted. I added cowl flap actuator rods using pieces of stretched sprue.
Here's the view of the flaps and rods from behind.
And finally... the radiator face placed into the Eagle Editions radiator cowling. The oval holes at the top and bottom of the radiator face are depressions that have been painted black. Should I drill them out? Not as simple as it looks since there is a lot of plastic behind the depressions from the locator holes that are used to attach this piece to the forward fuselage.
The Dora build continues as I add a brake line to the G-Factor gear struts. I used stiff wire mounted with small sections of brass tubing. The last section of brake line will be added with lead wire after the gear legs have been painted.
Fast forward a couple of days and the gear legs are painted. The paint chips very easily off the metal legs... perhaps Mr Surfacer 1000 isn't the best primer for this metal. The data plate decals are from the Eagle Editions decal sheet. The legs were painted various shades of RLM02 and dirtied up with a dark wash. You can see a little chip off the black brake line that needs to be fixed.
The actuator arms have been given a similar treatment.
The insides of the landing gear doors have been painted as well. I will still add some weathering to the landing gear components before I call them finished.
The radiator face and the insides of the cowl flaps have been painted. I added cowl flap actuator rods using pieces of stretched sprue.
Here's the view of the flaps and rods from behind.
And finally... the radiator face placed into the Eagle Editions radiator cowling. The oval holes at the top and bottom of the radiator face are depressions that have been painted black. Should I drill them out? Not as simple as it looks since there is a lot of plastic behind the depressions from the locator holes that are used to attach this piece to the forward fuselage.
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Robert Porter
Senior Master Sergeant
Awesome!
SANCER
Senior Master Sergeant
Lovely work John!!
Impresionante limpieza y detalles amigo!!
Saludos
Impresionante limpieza y detalles amigo!!
Saludos
turbo
Staff Sergeant
Looking great John. If those holes are hard to drill out completely maybe just hollow them out a bit more and paint black?
Looks great so far John!
Crimea_River
Marshal
Here's a good pair of reference pics for the radiator detail John. Top opening seems to go deep into the rad whereas the bottom one is flat.
- Thread starter
- #294
JKim
Senior Master Sergeant
Thanks guys, especially the picture of the radiator face, Andy. I'm not sure what I'm going to do there but will probably leave it as is. Right behind those two openings are big locator holes. I'm afraid of what the hole will look like if I attempt to bore back into that structure. Anyways... onto some new stuff.
The other Eduard flap piece was next on the folding agenda. This one was a bit more complex and I thankfully have an identical fret to call upon as a reserve in case something goes awry.
The piece was carefully cut off the fret using a sharp knife. The little stubs of brass at the attachment points were trimmed away using a sanding stick.
This piece has a curved edge so I used a handle of a paint brush to press the brass piece on to form the curve.
The edge of the piece angles out perpendicularly from the curved portion... something that I didn't know how to do and I ended up straightening out most of the curve. I decided to press on and went to the next step of folding up the "wings" of each flap spar.
The last step is folding the flap back onto itself. I took this picture half-way through the fold. The actual folding edge is at the top of the piece but the lack of material between the spars and the flap was creating a weak joint that started bending.
So... the flap came out a bit tweaked. The incompleteness of the curve and the inadvertent bending at the weak joint resulted in a flap that may be serviceable but can definitely be improved upon.
This overhang at the edge shouldn't be there. Again, it might be usable but I'll probably give it another try on the duplicate fret.
Eager to start some exterior painting, I decided to use the landing gear covers as a test bed for a chipping solution that I picked up. The outside of the covers were given a base coat of black.
A coat of Alclad Aluminum forms the base color of the gear doors.
After the Aluminum is dry, I gave it a coat of MIG Chipping Fluid (Scratches Effect).
I preshaded the gear covers using thinned black.
RLM76 is applied in multiple, highly-thinned coats to dial in the preshading effect.
Using a water-damped stiff paint brush, I am able to disintegrate the RLM76 randomly to form this chipping effect. This is essentially the "hair spray" method using a modeling-specific product.
The chipping is sealed with a gloss coat and the covers are set aside for weathering work. In the in-between times, I have thinned the other side of the wing interiors to accept the Eduard brass flaps, once I get them in the mail from Eduard.
I have a set of Montex canopy masks, which I used for the flat-surfaced windscreen. I have had issues with Montex masks lifting during painting on curved surfaces so I've opted to mask manually using Tamiya tape. Thankfully, the Dora canopy doesn't have many frames and is an easy mask job.
The other Eduard flap piece was next on the folding agenda. This one was a bit more complex and I thankfully have an identical fret to call upon as a reserve in case something goes awry.
The piece was carefully cut off the fret using a sharp knife. The little stubs of brass at the attachment points were trimmed away using a sanding stick.
This piece has a curved edge so I used a handle of a paint brush to press the brass piece on to form the curve.
The edge of the piece angles out perpendicularly from the curved portion... something that I didn't know how to do and I ended up straightening out most of the curve. I decided to press on and went to the next step of folding up the "wings" of each flap spar.
The last step is folding the flap back onto itself. I took this picture half-way through the fold. The actual folding edge is at the top of the piece but the lack of material between the spars and the flap was creating a weak joint that started bending.
So... the flap came out a bit tweaked. The incompleteness of the curve and the inadvertent bending at the weak joint resulted in a flap that may be serviceable but can definitely be improved upon.
This overhang at the edge shouldn't be there. Again, it might be usable but I'll probably give it another try on the duplicate fret.
Eager to start some exterior painting, I decided to use the landing gear covers as a test bed for a chipping solution that I picked up. The outside of the covers were given a base coat of black.
A coat of Alclad Aluminum forms the base color of the gear doors.
After the Aluminum is dry, I gave it a coat of MIG Chipping Fluid (Scratches Effect).
I preshaded the gear covers using thinned black.
RLM76 is applied in multiple, highly-thinned coats to dial in the preshading effect.
Using a water-damped stiff paint brush, I am able to disintegrate the RLM76 randomly to form this chipping effect. This is essentially the "hair spray" method using a modeling-specific product.
The chipping is sealed with a gloss coat and the covers are set aside for weathering work. In the in-between times, I have thinned the other side of the wing interiors to accept the Eduard brass flaps, once I get them in the mail from Eduard.
I have a set of Montex canopy masks, which I used for the flat-surfaced windscreen. I have had issues with Montex masks lifting during painting on curved surfaces so I've opted to mask manually using Tamiya tape. Thankfully, the Dora canopy doesn't have many frames and is an easy mask job.
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turbo
Staff Sergeant
Nice work there John and the chipping looks great. How did you go with the MIG Chipping Fluid? I've tried it before and found it has a tendency to bead, so went back to good ol' hairspray.
Damn nice.
- Thread starter
- #298
JKim
Senior Master Sergeant
Thanks Kirby! I read some complaints about the MIG chipping fluid too (beading, ineffective after a period of time) so I wanted to test it on a small area before committing to using it on a larger scale. Sprayed onto Tamiya flat acrylic, I found no beading problem. You need a stiff brush to get the outer paint to chip. A pastel wash AFTER a gloss coat also caused the chipping reaction to occur, which was odd. Didn't find anything particular, good or bad, that would lead me to use this over hairspray. Jury's still out...
Robert Porter
Senior Master Sergeant
Well done and great results on the chipping. Good luck on the PE, I can't seem to get the hang of curved compound surfaces either.
- Thread starter
- #300
JKim
Senior Master Sergeant
Luckily, I have an identical fret of this flap so I decided to use it and give it another try.
This time, I decided to add the edge fold first.
The curve is added using the same Tamiya paint brush handle (which has a uniform cross-section and is NOT tapered).
The folding tool is used to start the fold but it has to be finished by hand. I was very careful this time of confining the fold to the edge but it was difficult not to slightly deform the piece around the weaker areas.
Once the piece was folded back over itself, I used round styrene rod as a form to preserve the curvature and to help the seat the edge more accurately.
After gluing the edges together with CA glue, here is the flap version 2 at the bottom. You can see that the new one has less "wrinkles" at the bases of the spars.
And I've reduced the overhang.
Happy with how this flap turned out, I've added the hinge hardware to it.
There are corresponding sets of hinges yet to be mounted on the upper wing which need to be carefully placed to match the lower flap.
Or I can just shut the whole thing up and pretend like it never happened. Just kidding.
I also did a little more work on the landing gear doors. After the gloss coat, a decal is placed on the covers.
A dark brown wash is applied to the recessed details.
Then wiped off with a dampened paper towel. I'll give these a flat coat to seal the wash and prepare for the next step of weathering.
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