Airframes
Benevolens Magister
Good stuff John, and I also think the tyres look good as they are.
1/32 Hasegawa Fw 190D-9 "Black One"
- Thread starter JKim
- Start date
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Robert Porter
Senior Master Sergeant
Nicely done!
Totalize
Tech Sergeant
Cool!
Great work so far John!
- Thread starter
- #265
JKim
Senior Master Sergeant
Today is high school graduation for my elder daughter. Strange to think that our little girl will be leaving the house for college in just a few months.
I took the day off as my sister flew in from Hawaii to attend the graduation. So I snuck out into the garage for a few moments this morning to work on the Dora.
The windscreen has been painted with the interior color RLM66. Still toying with the option of displaying the canopy open or shutting it. The fit with the resin hood, windscreen and canopy looks pretty good. Slight overhang on the windscreen but nothing that can't be easily corrected.
Thinking ahead to painting, I trace a mask of the sliding canopy section.
The supercharger fan was painted.
And the supercharger intake was glued into place. The glue seam around the intake needs to be filled so that is why I am doing it now since it'll be much easier to access the bottom seam without the wing in the way.
The gap around the intake is filled with White Milliput. Once this is dry, I will blend the joint with Mr Dissolved Putty. I've been using this stuff more and more and I'm beginning to really like it. Compared to Mr Surfacer 1000, it dries faster, doesn't shrink as much (big plus) and sands just as nice.
The horizontal tail surfaces have been glued into the separate tail unit. Again, it is much easier to work on the joints with this tail unit separated from the fuselage.
That's all for now. USPS tracking says that my PE bending tool will be delivered today so soon I'll be able to play with the Eduard brass flaps.
I took the day off as my sister flew in from Hawaii to attend the graduation. So I snuck out into the garage for a few moments this morning to work on the Dora.
The windscreen has been painted with the interior color RLM66. Still toying with the option of displaying the canopy open or shutting it. The fit with the resin hood, windscreen and canopy looks pretty good. Slight overhang on the windscreen but nothing that can't be easily corrected.
Thinking ahead to painting, I trace a mask of the sliding canopy section.
The supercharger fan was painted.
And the supercharger intake was glued into place. The glue seam around the intake needs to be filled so that is why I am doing it now since it'll be much easier to access the bottom seam without the wing in the way.
The gap around the intake is filled with White Milliput. Once this is dry, I will blend the joint with Mr Dissolved Putty. I've been using this stuff more and more and I'm beginning to really like it. Compared to Mr Surfacer 1000, it dries faster, doesn't shrink as much (big plus) and sands just as nice.
The horizontal tail surfaces have been glued into the separate tail unit. Again, it is much easier to work on the joints with this tail unit separated from the fuselage.
That's all for now. USPS tracking says that my PE bending tool will be delivered today so soon I'll be able to play with the Eduard brass flaps.
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Lucky13
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Robert Porter
Senior Master Sergeant
Excellent progress! That tail gear looks fantastic installed!
Airframes
Benevolens Magister
Nice work John.
SANCER
Senior Master Sergeant
Congratulations on the graduation of your daughter John, you should feel proud and the opportunity to attend college, will give you more satisfaction.
The advance in your bird, simply formidable.
Saludos
The advance in your bird, simply formidable.
Saludos
- Thread starter
- #272
JKim
Senior Master Sergeant
Thanks for the comments! Busy weekend with the graduation activities so only a short update.
The supercharger intake seam is getting cleaned up and I've put a seam line across the center of it. A few more iterations of putty/sanding are needed to get it blended in.
The 5.5" bending tool came in the mail but I discovered something wrong with the flap set. I've got two Part 2 pieces instead of one Part 1 and one Part 2. I've fired off an email to Eduard to see if I can get a quick replacement.
The supercharger intake seam is getting cleaned up and I've put a seam line across the center of it. A few more iterations of putty/sanding are needed to get it blended in.
The 5.5" bending tool came in the mail but I discovered something wrong with the flap set. I've got two Part 2 pieces instead of one Part 1 and one Part 2. I've fired off an email to Eduard to see if I can get a quick replacement.
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Robert Porter
Senior Master Sergeant
I would imagine they will fix the issue for you, they have a great reputation.
Crimea_River
Marshal
Happened to me once with some drawer slides I bought for a cabinet I was building. Easy mistake by the packager I can imagine.
Hope it is sorted quickly....
Looks great so far John!
turbo
Staff Sergeant
This is going to be really good John, especially when you get all that PE stuff on.
And congratulations on your daughter's graduation!
And congratulations on your daughter's graduation!
- Thread starter
- #279
JKim
Senior Master Sergeant
The main gear legs on the Dora kit can be susceptible to breakage. I know that first hand as I snapped one on my Yellow 11 build as I was inserting it into the landing gear well. Being nervous about the added weight that the Eagle resin cockpit as well as the Henri Daehne prop adds to this model, I decided to take a look at some metal replacements. I opted for the G-Factor brass legs. Visually, they seem to be identical to the Hasegawa parts, with no added detail. There is a slight, irregular mold line that runs down both sides of the legs that are visible but not overly noticeable. The gear legs are molded in one piece with the oleo scissors molded into place.
After priming the brass legs with Mr Surfacer 1000, I discovered that the locating pins on the legs didn't match the corresponding holes in the landing gear doors. Placing the G-Factor legs next to the kit legs reveals that the G-Factor legs are a touch shorter than the kit legs. It's always SOMETHING not quite right with these aftermarket parts!
To make things fit, I decided to grind off the pin closest to the wheel end of the G-Factor strut and glue a new pin more towards the end so that the pins would correspond to the holes in the gear doors. This seems to be an acceptable solution. I will add the brake lines to the gear legs before priming and painting.
Eduard promptly answered my email about the flap snafu and have committed to sending me a replacement. Confident in Eduard's promise, I tried my hand at folding one of the flap pieces with the new folding tool that I got.
This is the upper flaps after folding the end pieces up at right angles.
Each rib is carefully rotated 90 degrees before final fold is complete. I can then secure each rib individually using CA glue.
After the ribs are glued into place, I clean off the excess CA glue using debonder.
After priming the brass legs with Mr Surfacer 1000, I discovered that the locating pins on the legs didn't match the corresponding holes in the landing gear doors. Placing the G-Factor legs next to the kit legs reveals that the G-Factor legs are a touch shorter than the kit legs. It's always SOMETHING not quite right with these aftermarket parts!
To make things fit, I decided to grind off the pin closest to the wheel end of the G-Factor strut and glue a new pin more towards the end so that the pins would correspond to the holes in the gear doors. This seems to be an acceptable solution. I will add the brake lines to the gear legs before priming and painting.
Eduard promptly answered my email about the flap snafu and have committed to sending me a replacement. Confident in Eduard's promise, I tried my hand at folding one of the flap pieces with the new folding tool that I got.
This is the upper flaps after folding the end pieces up at right angles.
Each rib is carefully rotated 90 degrees before final fold is complete. I can then secure each rib individually using CA glue.
After the ribs are glued into place, I clean off the excess CA glue using debonder.
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Wow that looks complicated John, far too much work involved for me 
The slightly shorter gear legs might be ok as i know a lot of models seem to have fully extended oleo' as no weight was on them ?
The slightly shorter gear legs might be ok as i know a lot of models seem to have fully extended oleo' as no weight was on them ?
