1/32 Hasegawa Fw 190D-9 "Black One"
- Thread starter JKim
- Start date
Ad: This forum contains affiliate links to products on Amazon and eBay. More information in Terms and rules
- Thread starter
- #222
JKim
Senior Master Sergeant
Yeah, they are very impressive. Everything about them: the immaculate finish, the exact fit, the details, the informative instructions indicates superior craftsmanship. The prop blades had no "excess" per se but the bases were cast long. The modeler has to saw/trim the circular cross section base.
Last edited:
Robert Porter
Senior Master Sergeant
Awesome! I have taken notes and going to see what else they make, the craftsmanship and your assembly are perfect!
- Thread starter
- #225
JKim
Senior Master Sergeant
Thanks guys! Another short session at the workbench today. The rear deck has been painted and glued into place. I've also glued the resin instrument hood.
The canopy fits fairly well. There is a bit of overhang on the top edge of the windscreen but that seems easily correctable, if necessary.
I'm still thinking about positioning the canopy in the open position. The only issue for me is how to realistically portray the slack aerial wire between the open canopy and rudder.
The joints around the instrument hood need some attention so I've started that by filling the gaps with White Milliput. The rest of the time was spent seeing how much of the cockpit was in view after the hood was attached. The gun sight was temporarily placed into the opening in the hood.
The windscreen is put into place to make sure that it fits without hitting the gun sight.
The canopy fits fairly well. There is a bit of overhang on the top edge of the windscreen but that seems easily correctable, if necessary.
I'm still thinking about positioning the canopy in the open position. The only issue for me is how to realistically portray the slack aerial wire between the open canopy and rudder.
The joints around the instrument hood need some attention so I've started that by filling the gaps with White Milliput. The rest of the time was spent seeing how much of the cockpit was in view after the hood was attached. The gun sight was temporarily placed into the opening in the hood.
The windscreen is put into place to make sure that it fits without hitting the gun sight.
Last edited:
Robert Porter
Senior Master Sergeant
The padding around the IP shield, what is that? Is it part of the resin and painted or something you added? Whichever it looks great. FWIW I vote for canopy closed!
turbo
Staff Sergeant
Coming along very nicely John, that prop assembly looks lovely!
Tony Hill
Tech Sergeant
Nice!
- Thread starter
- #230
JKim
Senior Master Sergeant
Thanks Robert! I prefer aircraft models with everything closed. Just like the cleaner look myself. But I'm keeping an open mind on the canopy issue.
The padding is just that. Something to protect the head of the pilot. It is part of the resin piece and was brush painted brown. I tried to keep it a satin finish instead of dead flat to simulate padded leather.
Last edited:
Great work so far John!
SANCER
Senior Master Sergeant
John, are excellent resin parts and the overall job you are doing is formidable, clean and with good photographs.
I enjoy your work very much, congratulations and I am attentive to the process.
Hay mucho para seguir aprendiendo.
Saludos
I enjoy your work very much, congratulations and I am attentive to the process.
Hay mucho para seguir aprendiendo.
Saludos
- Thread starter
- #233
JKim
Senior Master Sergeant
Thanks guys! Not much to report on the Dora. I've found that I work best when there are no pressing issues on my plate and having to prepare for a meeting at work tonight has been on my mind this week. A new bending tool is enroute so any wing work is going to have to wait until after the flap matter is settled. I spent yesterday thinking ahead and attending to a few small details.
Masking. I bought some Montex masks for this build. The set is intended for two red/white-bellied planes of JV44 but it was chosen because of the national marking crosses.
Dortenmann's Black 1 (W.Nr 21003) and JV44's Red 13 (W.Nr 210240) shared the same size/style crosses, which makes sense with both aircraft being 210xxx series of early Doras produced at the Sorau factory. If the size is right, I can also use the Montex Mask for the "1".
A bonus to this set is a full set of canopy masks. Unlike Eduard, Montex provides masks for the inside frames as well the outside. I usually disregard the inner masks, choosing to instead mask only the outermost frames manually. The black vinyl doesn't work as well as the yellow tape that Eduard uses and I've found that Montex masks have a frustrating tendency to lift on curved surfaces. The flat surfaces of the windscreen should not be a problem so I applied those. Fit was perfect.
I decided to use my older circle cutter to make masks for the wheels.
I like to attach the windscreen to the fuselage prior to painting so that I can ensure a clean joint. While the windscreen is a separate piece, I've used it to trace a mask that can be used when it comes time to paint the fuselage.
The remaining time last evening was spent putting flat spots on the tires to simulate weight effects.
Masking. I bought some Montex masks for this build. The set is intended for two red/white-bellied planes of JV44 but it was chosen because of the national marking crosses.
Dortenmann's Black 1 (W.Nr 21003) and JV44's Red 13 (W.Nr 210240) shared the same size/style crosses, which makes sense with both aircraft being 210xxx series of early Doras produced at the Sorau factory. If the size is right, I can also use the Montex Mask for the "1".
A bonus to this set is a full set of canopy masks. Unlike Eduard, Montex provides masks for the inside frames as well the outside. I usually disregard the inner masks, choosing to instead mask only the outermost frames manually. The black vinyl doesn't work as well as the yellow tape that Eduard uses and I've found that Montex masks have a frustrating tendency to lift on curved surfaces. The flat surfaces of the windscreen should not be a problem so I applied those. Fit was perfect.
I decided to use my older circle cutter to make masks for the wheels.
I like to attach the windscreen to the fuselage prior to painting so that I can ensure a clean joint. While the windscreen is a separate piece, I've used it to trace a mask that can be used when it comes time to paint the fuselage.
The remaining time last evening was spent putting flat spots on the tires to simulate weight effects.
Last edited:
SANCER
Senior Master Sergeant
Nice, ...good luck and see you soon John.
Crimea_River
Marshal
Robert Porter
Senior Master Sergeant
Jeff Hunt
1st Lieutenant
Another great looking bird in the making.
Jeff
Jeff
Looking good John.
Looks great so far John!
