1/32 P-47D - Allied Advance and Defense of the Reich WWII.

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Thks Fellas one thing I thought of SLEEVES coffee stirrers?The red ones I got are to big brown ones from MacD ?:dontknow:
 
Might work, but I'd need to see them. The stainless 'sleeves' were wider in diameter than the standard, perforated jacket, so you have some leeway.
Here's a pic of the stainless barrel sleeves, and I'll post a pic tomorrow of the complete weapon, to give an idea of how the sleeve looked.
I still think it might be easier to cut off the existing barrels, except the very short one, and substitute the plain barrels though.
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Alright Terry no luck yet on the straws when I try to drill out those to small(barrels.060"OD straws .080"OD) plastic is to soft expands.So you are really starting to bug me :) with that pic you supplied my mind is starting to think brass rod three sizes maybe inside each other if I have them in my stash:dontknow: Next night off is Tuesday night time is my best work efforts.
 
Still thinking that some of a putty applied on the MG barrels in order to fill the holes of the perforation and slightly sanding for making of the solid stainless steel pipes would be the best and easiest way for getting it fixed..
 
Still thinking that some of a putty applied on the MG barrels in order to fill the holes of the perforation and slightly sanding for making of the solid stainless steel pipes would be the best and easiest way for getting it fixed..


You are probably right Wojtek and I might go down that street at the end of the night but if I am going to change it I like to make it better than the kit part.The brass esp rod I been finding more and more uses.Now if you did the putty would you thin it out with a little acetone to get it to flow ?
 
A putty thinned with the acetone? No, I wouldn'y use that. Just some of a mixture of a paint and talc powder for instance.. All you need to do , is to fill out these holes in the MG barrels only. In the way you will get the barrel pipes without the perforation. And then paint it with the stainless colour.
 
Yep, that would probably work. After filling the perforations, a couple of good coats of primer should smooth things out, and then apply the stainless finish.
But, a few years ago, on a built, old 1/32nd scale model, I just cut off the barrels, and replaced them with thin aluminium tube from Albion Alloys, then gave the bare alloy a gloss clear coat, and they looked fine. Given the gun receivers are firmly fixed inside the wing, then the barrels can easily be cut off at the leading edge, trimmed back and / or drilled a little to give some leeway, and the tubes inserted and fixed with CA adhesive
I'll scan and post the pic of the complete weapon later this evening.
 
I agree with Terry's ideas as well. The another way for getting of the steel tubes could be just putting the thin heat shrink tubings on the barrles.
 
Here's the pic of a P-47 Browning, showing the stainless, heavy barrel sleeve, Not best quality, as it's enlarged from a small image, but I think I have good B&W pic somewhere if you need it.

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Yep, that's my suggestion too. It's the easiest solution, and simple to do.

Terry it was not till earlier today did I actually recognize that's what you met in the first place.I was thinking go into the wing and snip at the receiver which one gun was a no go.Doing it at the leading edge of the wing is very feasible.
 
Yep.
If you decide to do it this way, here's a little tip which might help.
Cut some strips of masking tape, preferably the Tamiya type, and run them between finger and thumb to remove some of the 'tack'.
Then, push a strip over each gun barrel, puncturing the tape, and smooth it down lightly over the leading edge of the wing.
This will prevent damage to the paint work when cutting, in case of a slip, and also when fitting the new barrels.
Once the new barrels have set, the tape can be removed.
 
The gun bays look great! I'd recommend cutting the barrels off at the wing leading edge and replacing with metal tubing as well.
 
Alright here are the barrels just set in the holes for now.I tried both aluminum and brass and opted for the brass as you can see. (1)I took stock that was .060" OD and drilled the end with a .045" bit (2) cut barrel length(3) inserted .030" tube almost to he end of mother tube but not quite.(4) super glued inner tube and cut off excess leaving material to fit in old barrels that were drilled to .035"

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