<> **** DONE: 1/32 Sopwith Camel F.1 - WW1 / WW2 over Water.
- Thread starter parsifal
- Start date
Ad: This forum contains affiliate links to products on Amazon and eBay. More information in Terms and rules
Airframes
Benevolens Magister
I agree - it should work very well, and look authentic.
However, if for whatever reason it doesn't work to your satisfaction, then use the GW two-part epoxy if you are happy using this (I haven't used it, so can't comment on it's suitability).
It's worth getting some 'Milliput' for future use though, and I'd suggest the 'Standard, Yellow-Grey' variety. Some prefer the white superfine, but after more than 40 years using 'Milliput', I feel that the 'Standard' type is more versatile, and less prone to flaking etc on small detail work. Being in two 'colours', it's also much easier to mix in equal proportions, and it's also slightly cheaper than the other versions, such as white, silver etc etc.
However, if for whatever reason it doesn't work to your satisfaction, then use the GW two-part epoxy if you are happy using this (I haven't used it, so can't comment on it's suitability).
It's worth getting some 'Milliput' for future use though, and I'd suggest the 'Standard, Yellow-Grey' variety. Some prefer the white superfine, but after more than 40 years using 'Milliput', I feel that the 'Standard' type is more versatile, and less prone to flaking etc on small detail work. Being in two 'colours', it's also much easier to mix in equal proportions, and it's also slightly cheaper than the other versions, such as white, silver etc etc.
- Thread starter
- #124
parsifal
Colonel
There is an option I should have thought of and forgot to mention. As I said, I don't have the milliput, and there is some delay in obtaining that stuff. I don't have the GW filler putty but it is locally available at least. The third option I remembered is that I do have on hand in the bag of tricks what I call the "green sh*t". this is another GW product. Its basically liquid that is brushed on the surface of the item and can be used to fill gaps cracks or other unwanted dimples. It has the consistency of a thick liquid or thin paste. As a product it has its issues (it tends to run everywhere), but at least im familiar with how to use it, and it can be contained by good masking. The issue for me is to protect the integrity of the wicker detailing on the item. Of course I can just break the item, but more likely I can get a run that would basically ruin the wicker pattern if Im not careful. The wicker detail is what really sets this piece off I think. When I applied the paint scheme that you see, I didn't have much difficulty in masking the seat where I didn't want to spray the black. I should be able to mask it again and apply the green sh*t where I want it and not have runs. The top spray I applied over the wicker patter was a very eweak miz of paint so that the "weave" patter was not all glugged up by paint. The green sh*t is a very strong colour that would be visible under such a thin coating of paint, but if im painting that area black, with green glug hiding the weave pattern on the wicker piping it shouldn't matter how thick my paint application in that area is anyway..
I went home for lunch and looked at the proportions of the seat and thicknesses of the insulated wire. I think there might be difficulties in terms of scaling there. I m ight be able to reduce the diameter of the plastic insulation by sanding, but it would not be at all easy. I now think the least risk option is the filer option, I just need to be careful not to get any runs or otherwise muck up the superb detailing of the piece.
I have so many "cunning plans" right now im starting to feel like Baldrick!
I went home for lunch and looked at the proportions of the seat and thicknesses of the insulated wire. I think there might be difficulties in terms of scaling there. I m ight be able to reduce the diameter of the plastic insulation by sanding, but it would not be at all easy. I now think the least risk option is the filer option, I just need to be careful not to get any runs or otherwise muck up the superb detailing of the piece.
I have so many "cunning plans" right now im starting to feel like Baldrick!
- Thread starter
- #125
parsifal
Colonel
Bit of a setback. my decals have gone missing, and the seller rather than sending me a replacement as I had asked, simply cancelled the sale and forwarded me a refund. This was not I had wanted
ive sourced the same decal sheet from airscale directly. Airscales website says they can ship world wide with delivery times 3-5 working days. Frankly, im doubtful, does anyone have any experience on how quick these guys are?
http://airscale.co.uk/store.php#!/1-32-scale-WW1-Cockpit-Decals/p/39176429/category=9842271
now my eyes are narrowing and the steam is building in my belly, because I found this.....
http://www.jadarhobby.pl/part-s32030-sopwith-camel-f1-132-p-13242.html?language=en
Grrrr, if only I had known.......the price is 81 polish moneys, why aren't they using euros?
ive sourced the same decal sheet from airscale directly. Airscales website says they can ship world wide with delivery times 3-5 working days. Frankly, im doubtful, does anyone have any experience on how quick these guys are?
http://airscale.co.uk/store.php#!/1-32-scale-WW1-Cockpit-Decals/p/39176429/category=9842271
now my eyes are narrowing and the steam is building in my belly, because I found this.....
http://www.jadarhobby.pl/part-s32030-sopwith-camel-f1-132-p-13242.html?language=en
Grrrr, if only I had known.......the price is 81 polish moneys, why aren't they using euros?
Looking good so far!
- Thread starter
- #127
parsifal
Colonel
First up, before anything, I want to post an apology. ive had a change of mind that will result in a major change of direction for this build. I did not mean to waste peoples time with what ive done so far but the things ive discovered over the last day or so have really challenged my whole approach to this build. ,
Quick update. I applied the green goo as described and then applied a new coulour to the 'leather piping and base. Used a Tamiya colour called Nato Brown.
The green goo experiment resulted in an improvement in that the wicker corrugations around the piping. However I was a little too cautious in my application of the goo and corrugations are still visible. Now that have decided to get rid of those corrugations, there is nothing for it but to apply another coat of green goo. Its doing the job, but I do need to be careful
I also applied some further PE parts to the Vickers gun Ive started to put together. Im just not good with PE parts. It requires a level of patience and skill that I just am lacking in. Im improving and the results im getting are passable, but my level of eye sight and eye hand co-ordination just isn't quite there yet. Still, Im happy with the results so far. The Vickers still needs the cocking handle attached and then should be ready for painting. The aftermarket piece has no attachment piece whilst the kit supplied piece has a mounting lug underneath. I don't see why I cant attach a scratch built lug to the aftermarket pieces so that they can be fitted to the kit with less guesswork as to their positioning. Ive compared the sizes of the Eduard guns to the Academy guns and there is b*gger all difference to the dimensions that I can see
Does anyone have a good picture of how best to paint up this kit?
Lastly ive come with a radical solution to my decal/IP issue. At the cost of some vital body parts, my wife has allowed me to purchase the full after market PE set from Poland .
This is unknown territory for me and it does mean that some of the work ive already done as a scratch build, will need to come out and be redone. Principally the pit walls, and and the pilots position, rudder cables and scratch built fuel control system. The company that ive bought this from has platered up on its website that it can deliver to most countries in less than 5 days. Ive asked for the piece to be airmailed and couriered to me to reduce delays, as I am fully aware that tie is ticking by
I sincerely apologise guys for wasting your time with my scratch building nonsense, but my change of mind was a late one. I did not realise that such aftermarket resources were even available for this kit, and the finishes look just fantastic. I hope you guys can be a little patient.
Quick update. I applied the green goo as described and then applied a new coulour to the 'leather piping and base. Used a Tamiya colour called Nato Brown.
The green goo experiment resulted in an improvement in that the wicker corrugations around the piping. However I was a little too cautious in my application of the goo and corrugations are still visible. Now that have decided to get rid of those corrugations, there is nothing for it but to apply another coat of green goo. Its doing the job, but I do need to be careful
I also applied some further PE parts to the Vickers gun Ive started to put together. Im just not good with PE parts. It requires a level of patience and skill that I just am lacking in. Im improving and the results im getting are passable, but my level of eye sight and eye hand co-ordination just isn't quite there yet. Still, Im happy with the results so far. The Vickers still needs the cocking handle attached and then should be ready for painting. The aftermarket piece has no attachment piece whilst the kit supplied piece has a mounting lug underneath. I don't see why I cant attach a scratch built lug to the aftermarket pieces so that they can be fitted to the kit with less guesswork as to their positioning. Ive compared the sizes of the Eduard guns to the Academy guns and there is b*gger all difference to the dimensions that I can see
Does anyone have a good picture of how best to paint up this kit?
Lastly ive come with a radical solution to my decal/IP issue. At the cost of some vital body parts, my wife has allowed me to purchase the full after market PE set from Poland .
This is unknown territory for me and it does mean that some of the work ive already done as a scratch build, will need to come out and be redone. Principally the pit walls, and and the pilots position, rudder cables and scratch built fuel control system. The company that ive bought this from has platered up on its website that it can deliver to most countries in less than 5 days. Ive asked for the piece to be airmailed and couriered to me to reduce delays, as I am fully aware that tie is ticking by
I sincerely apologise guys for wasting your time with my scratch building nonsense, but my change of mind was a late one. I did not realise that such aftermarket resources were even available for this kit, and the finishes look just fantastic. I hope you guys can be a little patient.
Dont be sorry, it's your kit, if the change is to your liking and you are game to try it GOOD ON YOU if you are patient and careful you will get a good result.
remember it is new territory....a great challenge, go for it.....!
and try not to feed the carpet monster too much of that small etch stuff.....
remember it is new territory....a great challenge, go for it.....!
and try not to feed the carpet monster too much of that small etch stuff.....
Robert Porter
Senior Master Sergeant
Onwards and upwards! No regrets here looking forward to seeing the new approach!
Airframes
Benevolens Magister
No problem at all for the change of plan Michael, good on you for 'biting the bullet'.
As for the colour on the Vickers, basically overall black, with the cams and cocking lever in a slightly different shade, for contrast. The feed 'jaws' could be metallic coloured, and the redundant water cooling jacket could possibly show brass chipping / wear effects around the front periphery, and around the added perforations.
As for the colour on the Vickers, basically overall black, with the cams and cocking lever in a slightly different shade, for contrast. The feed 'jaws' could be metallic coloured, and the redundant water cooling jacket could possibly show brass chipping / wear effects around the front periphery, and around the added perforations.
Crimea_River
Marshal
Don't let time be a factor on this build Michael. As you know, the prize money for winning a GB is not very big. It's not worth ruining a good project so have fun with the new approach.
- Thread starter
- #133
parsifal
Colonel
Thanks Terry (and everyone) for your patience.
Thanks also terry for the paint advice. Ive nearly finished The second gun. So far my fitting attempts are better, suggesting Im getting a little better. Will post images when I have something meaningful to show. I was thinking of using Tamiya gunmetal for the main body of the weapon perhaps using a touch of Tamiya smoke or black to highlight some parts For the cocking arms I was thinking using a semi gloss black for the metal part and a timber colour for the little wooden knob at the end. The padded bit at the end, facing the cockpit (not sure what they are or what they do, just that they are made of leather) I was thinking of finishing in the same leather trim colour as ive applied to the pilots seat (which ive finally finished now, as per your advice, looks terrific at least to the naken eye…should wait until ive done more close ups). I was going to do the breaches in a dull aluminium colour, perhaps toned down a bit with a thin wash of smoke or similar. .
I really like the suggestion about brass chips on the redundant water jackets. Never tried chipping as a technique before. Whilst Im sitting around twiddlling my thumbs waiting for those parts, any suggestions about how to make a good "chipping effect'. Ive never had a lot of success or experience with any kind of weathering. 'bout time I tried I guess.
Airframes
Benevolens Magister
The leather padding on the rear of each gun is a 'crash pad', to prevent the pilot from experiencing a self-induced frontal lobotomy in the event of a hard landing or worse !
If the cooling jackets are metal-etch parts, then the chipping, or more correctly abrasion and general wear, can be done by gently rubbing or scratching off the paint. Otherwise, very lightly dry-brush around the edges, at the circumference of the front plate on each jacket, around the 'gills', and a little, very subtle treatment down some of the 'ribs' of the flutes.
Use a brass-coloured paint, slightly thinned, and a small brush, only just moistened with pint, which has been wiped off. If using enamels, then once the paint has been applied, diffuse it, lightly, with a finger tip before it has fully dried.
The cooling jackets were pressed sheet metal and painted, whereas the receivers could be 'Parkerised', or sometimes a type of 'baked', matt black on the heavier forged or stamped metal.
If the cooling jackets are metal-etch parts, then the chipping, or more correctly abrasion and general wear, can be done by gently rubbing or scratching off the paint. Otherwise, very lightly dry-brush around the edges, at the circumference of the front plate on each jacket, around the 'gills', and a little, very subtle treatment down some of the 'ribs' of the flutes.
Use a brass-coloured paint, slightly thinned, and a small brush, only just moistened with pint, which has been wiped off. If using enamels, then once the paint has been applied, diffuse it, lightly, with a finger tip before it has fully dried.
The cooling jackets were pressed sheet metal and painted, whereas the receivers could be 'Parkerised', or sometimes a type of 'baked', matt black on the heavier forged or stamped metal.
- Thread starter
- #135
parsifal
Colonel
The piece is mostly resin. The second weapon is coming together better than the first. I might very carefully run some runny filler along the feed assemblies where they join the main body, because there are visible gaps in that area. Not sure what to do where I kinda blew the PE fit for the first gun. The little holes for the back plate are meant to align, but dont....I might try and cover that up in some way. There are limits to what I know I can handle though simply because of the small size of the mis-fitment. If I use too much goo I will easily ruin the really nice detailing the Eduard kit has. but it looks a bit messy right now
Airframes
Benevolens Magister
The first gun doesn't look too bad at all, and once installed in the Camel's 'hump', they should look fine.
- Thread starter
- #137
parsifal
Colonel
thanks terry, I needed that. self doubt creeping in as you can see.
T Bolt
Colonel
Great work Michael
Robert Porter
Senior Master Sergeant
Looks great to me! That is some serious fiddly bit work there!
- Thread starter
- #140
parsifal
Colonel
Ok, some progress shots finally. I believe ive just about finished the Pilot seat and the aircraft armament. I'm generally happy with the result.
Ive used rather stronger colours for the seat leather trim, on the basis of some artistic licence. I wanted the seat to be at least somewhat visible when it finally goes in
Ive also left someflash under the base of the seat, to give some wriggle room when time comes to fit the thing.
Results are far from perfect, but I'm still very happy with the results. Its a case of "good enough" as my wife would say.
And now I have to find that most frustrating of tool from my toolbox, the long weight as the kit I need to finish the interior needs to arrive now.
Ive used rather stronger colours for the seat leather trim, on the basis of some artistic licence. I wanted the seat to be at least somewhat visible when it finally goes in
Ive also left someflash under the base of the seat, to give some wriggle room when time comes to fit the thing.
Results are far from perfect, but I'm still very happy with the results. Its a case of "good enough" as my wife would say.
And now I have to find that most frustrating of tool from my toolbox, the long weight as the kit I need to finish the interior needs to arrive now.
