fubar57
General
Tough to model something correctly that is so rare in documentation Michael, unlike a Spit, 109 or P-51. Good to know you spotted it and are able to correct it before it was too late
<> **** DONE: 1/32 Sopwith Camel F.1 - WW1 / WW2 over Water.
- Thread starter parsifal
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turbo
Staff Sergeant
Nice work Michael, look forward to the pics
Keep them pics coming...
Very nice work
- Thread starter
- #166
parsifal
Colonel
This is an update after the weekend. The after market PE kit has not arrived, and I made a decision to proceed with the scratch building as was my original plan. thus, at this stage the kit has an after market Eduard set of guns and Ive also used the bezels from NZ.
I also had to go back and redo the guns because I found the cocking mechanism was incorrectly fitted for the Camel. Ive managed to pull them apart and rebuild them properly, installing a support bar just aft the top decking. Ive built a scratch built aldis sight with classic cross beading. I found it a lot harder than I had first thought. Installed the seating harness, pilots back board and pilots seat. Fuel tanks were further modified and the filler caps that you see are connected to the tanks. I forgot to photograph the tanks before buttoning up the fuselage. All that work for nothing basically.....
The fuselage is now joined and Ive started to fill and sand the joining seams . Still have some to do yet. Ive dry fitted the lower wing and the over emphasis of the ribbing is really obvious . They obviously need some sanding back, Ive never done that getting the sanding even worries me, so any tips on how to do that would be appreciated.
Ive not yet fitted the guns or the sights and intend to delay this for as long as possible whilst I get the fuselage completed and the lower wings and tail connected . at that point I intend to paint the model, before swing over to the rigging and fitting of the upper wing. That just doesn't feel right painting a model that is half finished, but its how its supposed to be done apparently.
the Aldis sight that I built. the cross hairs are invisible thread.....I need to work up the courage to finish the
this trimming so that the thread is flush to the outer ring
have been rebuilt there is incomplete filling underway of the top decking. Its a good shot of the
The fuselage joined photo taken tonight. I feel I have crossed the Rubicon. Sorry about the poor quality of the last photo. guns
have been rebuilt the port side decking plat has been fitted and the filling is underway but not complete . This shot gives a pretty good idea of the harness that ive made and how it fits to the pit backing board
This was the top decking on Saturday, before the fuselage halves were joined
These were some other shots from earlier in the weekend
I also had to go back and redo the guns because I found the cocking mechanism was incorrectly fitted for the Camel. Ive managed to pull them apart and rebuild them properly, installing a support bar just aft the top decking. Ive built a scratch built aldis sight with classic cross beading. I found it a lot harder than I had first thought. Installed the seating harness, pilots back board and pilots seat. Fuel tanks were further modified and the filler caps that you see are connected to the tanks. I forgot to photograph the tanks before buttoning up the fuselage. All that work for nothing basically.....
The fuselage is now joined and Ive started to fill and sand the joining seams . Still have some to do yet. Ive dry fitted the lower wing and the over emphasis of the ribbing is really obvious . They obviously need some sanding back, Ive never done that getting the sanding even worries me, so any tips on how to do that would be appreciated.
Ive not yet fitted the guns or the sights and intend to delay this for as long as possible whilst I get the fuselage completed and the lower wings and tail connected . at that point I intend to paint the model, before swing over to the rigging and fitting of the upper wing. That just doesn't feel right painting a model that is half finished, but its how its supposed to be done apparently.
the Aldis sight that I built. the cross hairs are invisible thread.....I need to work up the courage to finish the
this trimming so that the thread is flush to the outer ring
have been rebuilt there is incomplete filling underway of the top decking. Its a good shot of the
The fuselage joined photo taken tonight. I feel I have crossed the Rubicon. Sorry about the poor quality of the last photo. guns
have been rebuilt the port side decking plat has been fitted and the filling is underway but not complete . This shot gives a pretty good idea of the harness that ive made and how it fits to the pit backing board
This was the top decking on Saturday, before the fuselage halves were joined
These were some other shots from earlier in the weekend
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Robert Porter
Senior Master Sergeant
Looking good! Like the scratch built pieces, I admire that kind of skill! Well done!
Looks good so far!
Crimea_River
Marshal
Not too shabby Michael. No suggestions on the rib sanding.
fubar57
General
Coming along nicely and agree with the others about your scratch building. Just went through a few builds looking for info on the ribs and most say the same thing, gentle sanding. 1:32 Scale Academy Sopwith Camel Here is a site that is strictly WW.I Hobbycraft 1/32 Sopwith Camel + Part PE Might be a good place to pose some questions
Doin' good man..
- Thread starter
- #174
parsifal
Colonel
Thanks Baron Von Little
- Thread starter
- #175
parsifal
Colonel
Tonite I embarked on the great rigging journey. I was watching Vics build with more than a passing interest and noted that he put off the rigging until after he had painted the outer skin. Reason was obvious.....he was using steel cable and wanted to retain the metal look of that material . I would do the same . But vic is up there, and I am down here . My kit is a good introductory rigging kit because it has a system for the rigging that is fairly simple ....suited to a relative novice like me. But it does have a down side....the thread is prepositioned within anchoring point inside the model and the outside just having them swing loose. Moreover the black thread is far too heavy made worse by the black colouration of the thread.
Most of the model is painted a drab olive green which is a natural camouflaging colour under most light conditions. So I decided to undertake a bit of an experiment which I could reverse if it didn't work out. I decided to fit the rigging to the tail before painting and then paint the tail rather than the other way around. The fitted tensioned cables that you see have been painted green, whilst the the untensioned cables retain their natural black colour. I don't think there is hardly any difference in what can be seen. The cables can be green or they can be black and there isn't a lot in it to be honest.
Anyway, take a squiz and tell me if I'm crazy. I am looking for honest opinions.
I think also ive found a solution to the cable tensioner that sits over the pilot . Its a thing I call a fishing midge, its 2.5mm long . Ive simply drilled a hole in it transversely and passed some thread (temporarily red for now) to make sure the drilled hole has sufficient diameter to take two threads ....
Also did a bit more sanding at the front end . getting closer to something I can live with ..
sanding and yet more sanding, plus I got a chance to take more photos of my IP and cockpit.
same colour as above (light playing tricks), Ive used Tamiya JMSDF green XF 58
starboard side tail. tensioned cables are green, the untensioned cables are still black. I cant tell the difference. admittedly its a very thin spray and I do need to go back and touch up, but really, the differences in contrast are minute to me.
This is the best reproduction of the colour Ive used . The thin paint Ive applied accentuates the fine detailing of this model . I should go back and fill those rigging holes that you see. One more piece of rigging to go in and then, if I'm happy I can trim the excess thread .
tensioner. Its called a "lumo" lure for obvious reasons. I think the concept will work. its still very out of scale but better than the solution in the kit instructions
Most of the model is painted a drab olive green which is a natural camouflaging colour under most light conditions. So I decided to undertake a bit of an experiment which I could reverse if it didn't work out. I decided to fit the rigging to the tail before painting and then paint the tail rather than the other way around. The fitted tensioned cables that you see have been painted green, whilst the the untensioned cables retain their natural black colour. I don't think there is hardly any difference in what can be seen. The cables can be green or they can be black and there isn't a lot in it to be honest.
Anyway, take a squiz and tell me if I'm crazy. I am looking for honest opinions.
I think also ive found a solution to the cable tensioner that sits over the pilot . Its a thing I call a fishing midge, its 2.5mm long . Ive simply drilled a hole in it transversely and passed some thread (temporarily red for now) to make sure the drilled hole has sufficient diameter to take two threads ....
Also did a bit more sanding at the front end . getting closer to something I can live with ..
sanding and yet more sanding, plus I got a chance to take more photos of my IP and cockpit.
same colour as above (light playing tricks), Ive used Tamiya JMSDF green XF 58
starboard side tail. tensioned cables are green, the untensioned cables are still black. I cant tell the difference. admittedly its a very thin spray and I do need to go back and touch up, but really, the differences in contrast are minute to me.
This is the best reproduction of the colour Ive used . The thin paint Ive applied accentuates the fine detailing of this model . I should go back and fill those rigging holes that you see. One more piece of rigging to go in and then, if I'm happy I can trim the excess thread .
tensioner. Its called a "lumo" lure for obvious reasons. I think the concept will work. its still very out of scale but better than the solution in the kit instructions
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Crimea_River
Marshal
There's a second and, I think, more important reason to paint the model before you rig and that is that you can not get the airbrush in close enough with the rigging there. The rigging will also affect the spray pattern, causing eddies that could result in a gritty application.
I think for rigging you would have been better off using nylon fishing line. It is not "roped" like sewing thread, holds it's tension, and can easily be painted by running a brush along it.
That said, you are doing a great job.
I think for rigging you would have been better off using nylon fishing line. It is not "roped" like sewing thread, holds it's tension, and can easily be painted by running a brush along it.
That said, you are doing a great job.
Robert Porter
Senior Master Sergeant
Looking very well done to me, I have not, and will not at least for quite awhile, dared tackle a WW1 bird just because of the rigging issues. Someday...
Airframes
Benevolens Magister
I agree with Andy, but overall, it's looking pretty good so far.
- Thread starter
- #180
parsifal
Colonel
thanks guys much appreciated. Cant do much about the use of cotton over fishing line. I did consider that at the outset, but chickened out and decided to follow the kit instructions.
However, I can, and will adopt the paint first, rig later principal for the remainder of the kit I think. Thus far ive gotten away with breaking the conventional wisdom , but in the maze of the forward rigging, I may well end up in trouble. I also have greater opportunities to apply shading along panel lines and stuff, whereas I'm limited now in the tail section
Robert, I understand your hesitation, but speaking for myself, despite the trepidation, as a modeller of limited experience , this has been a thoroughly enjoyable build, and thus far, the rigging issue not too much to take on. I would not hesitate to say try it, but try to select a model with an easy rigging plan for starters. this kit is excellent in that regard. Academy really have put some good thinking into this problem.
However, I can, and will adopt the paint first, rig later principal for the remainder of the kit I think. Thus far ive gotten away with breaking the conventional wisdom , but in the maze of the forward rigging, I may well end up in trouble. I also have greater opportunities to apply shading along panel lines and stuff, whereas I'm limited now in the tail section
Robert, I understand your hesitation, but speaking for myself, despite the trepidation, as a modeller of limited experience , this has been a thoroughly enjoyable build, and thus far, the rigging issue not too much to take on. I would not hesitate to say try it, but try to select a model with an easy rigging plan for starters. this kit is excellent in that regard. Academy really have put some good thinking into this problem.
