le_steph40
Chief Master Sergeant
Great work here Michael 
<> **** DONE: 1/32 Sopwith Camel F.1 - WW1 / WW2 over Water.
- Thread starter parsifal
- Start date
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Doing a good job mate for a first one!
Robert Porter
Senior Master Sergeant
Agreed! Looking great!
Crimea_River
Marshal
Good work there Michael. No idea what colour the crank case should be.
Airframes
Benevolens Magister
Don't know if these will help.
Not very good pics, but cropped from some I took of the RAFM, Hendon's Sopwith Triplane and Camel, to show the engines.
Not very good pics, but cropped from some I took of the RAFM, Hendon's Sopwith Triplane and Camel, to show the engines.
- Thread starter
- #86
parsifal
Colonel
Thanks Terry, and everyone. Looking at the photos Terry supplied, plus my own reference material, my best guess is that the firewall is a dark grey, to reduce its visibility. The cylinder heads are probably a dark charcoal from the carbonised oil, but the outer surfaces of the fins look like a bare metal finish. Probably a dry brush over the base. The crank is probably a bare metal finish but with some sort of oil staining or light carbonising effect. Cylinder heads really aren't visible, so I will need to go with the reference material I have.......
I will be happy if I can just get it to look sorta right.
Terry's photo sure demonstrates the strong colours needed for the natural timber finish of the prop.
I will be happy if I can just get it to look sorta right.
Terry's photo sure demonstrates the strong colours needed for the natural timber finish of the prop.
I think your engine should look like the one. More images can be found on the : Samolot myśliwski Sopwith Camel F.1 - walkaround - modelarstwo pasja hstoria hobby.
- Thread starter
- #88
parsifal
Colonel
Spent the morning pottering around in the workshop. I put together and painted the engine sub assembly and applied a timber finish to the prop. Also fitted the control column to the pit and lastly fitted the rigging cables to the open fuselage halves 9no photos of that).
Here are a few shots ....
This is a shot of the control column, taken from aft port side on. I notice that it needs a wee bit more touch up, shouldn't be a problem. The kit supplied control column seems very chunky, but I think the proportions are accurate
Control column taken forward quarter port side . I wish now I had used thred instead of rod for the foot controls. too late now......
timber finish applied to the propeller. Apologies for the poor focus. Generally happy with the timer finish. Need to do the metal centre (gunmetal or black, not sure). Also will apply a clear gloss finish probably using the AB. I'm happy with this element so far.
The kit supplied engine assembled and attached to the firewall. ive made no changes to the kit, just painted it in gunmetal . For the front plate I applied a dull aluminium base coat and then applied the gunmetal as a top coat. I drybrushed the cylinder cooling fins to give a very faint silver look and then used a silver marker pen to just spot a couple of things on the fuel injection system
shots of the complete engine assembly with the unpainted cowl just placed over it to see roughly how the thing might look
At this point ive reach a bit of an impasse as I wait for the after market parts to arrive.
While I wait I might go back and redo that pulsometer. There will be a lot of mucking around with that , but it is just too out of scale I think to be accepted
Here are a few shots ....
This is a shot of the control column, taken from aft port side on. I notice that it needs a wee bit more touch up, shouldn't be a problem. The kit supplied control column seems very chunky, but I think the proportions are accurate
Control column taken forward quarter port side . I wish now I had used thred instead of rod for the foot controls. too late now......
timber finish applied to the propeller. Apologies for the poor focus. Generally happy with the timer finish. Need to do the metal centre (gunmetal or black, not sure). Also will apply a clear gloss finish probably using the AB. I'm happy with this element so far.
The kit supplied engine assembled and attached to the firewall. ive made no changes to the kit, just painted it in gunmetal . For the front plate I applied a dull aluminium base coat and then applied the gunmetal as a top coat. I drybrushed the cylinder cooling fins to give a very faint silver look and then used a silver marker pen to just spot a couple of things on the fuel injection system
shots of the complete engine assembly with the unpainted cowl just placed over it to see roughly how the thing might look
At this point ive reach a bit of an impasse as I wait for the after market parts to arrive.
While I wait I might go back and redo that pulsometer. There will be a lot of mucking around with that , but it is just too out of scale I think to be accepted
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fubar57
General
All looking good Michael and I'm impressed with the scratch building Close-ups are brutal even when everything goes well
Robert Porter
Senior Master Sergeant
Looking great! Love the wood grain effects!
turbo
Staff Sergeant
Like it, looking nice!
Airframes
Benevolens Magister
It's looking good Michael, and once everything is closed up, any over-scale or chunky effects will probably not be noticed.
Nicely done so far!
- Thread starter
- #95
parsifal
Colonel
Those chunky clunky rudder cables have been removed. I hadforgotten that I had attached them using CA glue, so it was relatively simpleto undertake their removal.
Ive experimented with two replacement matretials.....heavy black rigging cotton and a bluish light fishing line. The fishing line is more in scale and easier to work with anyway. Half done one cable and already looking better. Photos to follow once the job is completed
Ive experimented with two replacement matretials.....heavy black rigging cotton and a bluish light fishing line. The fishing line is more in scale and easier to work with anyway. Half done one cable and already looking better. Photos to follow once the job is completed
Crimea_River
Marshal
Great work Michael.
- Thread starter
- #98
parsifal
Colonel
Sorry for the long break everyone. Been waiting for parts basically to complete the interior. I have scrapped my current IP and re cut the facing and painted it, after drilling and schamferring the gauge holes. I'm not sure how you guys would go about this but I do have a plan. ive cut a backing sheet and painted it matt black. it fits as a template to the "wooden" dash piece. Ive marked the centre of each drilled gauge hole onto the backing board and intend, when they arrive, to put the dial decals using these centre marks as the guides.
When I put the IP together, I will fix a clear styrene sheet in front of the black backing plate, to simulate the glass dial faces. Behind that will go the black backing board with the dials affixed. It will be crucial for the decals to be fixed in the right positions and there wont be much room for error. I cant implement the plan just yet because the decals haven't yet arrived , but as I said the other pieces to the IP are more or less ready. The bezels have arrived and will give some hide room for the decal positioning. I intend to fix the bezels to the dash face, and their size is such that have a very small tolerance to give me some wriggle room if its needed.
Ive done a dry run without the (right) decals, and the system seems to work. the decals are visible through the clear "glass" apertures. Hopefully it will all work as planned , but I'm stuck until the damn decals Ive ordered arrive. Hopefully soon.
good news is that my aftermarket pilots seat has arrived from barracuda. looks terrific and I'm glad I went to the expense. Now all I have to figure out is the correct colour scheme to use .
The following is the only period contemporary image of the wicker pilot's "seat that have. Any suggestions what the colour of the leather trim might be and the best colour for the wicker itself, in Tamiya colours.......
Can also have a look at Post 60 which has an image showing the wickerwork being a straw colour (oddly enough) and the rim as a flat black or charcoal. I'm thinking some dark grey with a bit of flat black added
(Edit; here is the cockpit cutawayimage0
When I put the IP together, I will fix a clear styrene sheet in front of the black backing plate, to simulate the glass dial faces. Behind that will go the black backing board with the dials affixed. It will be crucial for the decals to be fixed in the right positions and there wont be much room for error. I cant implement the plan just yet because the decals haven't yet arrived , but as I said the other pieces to the IP are more or less ready. The bezels have arrived and will give some hide room for the decal positioning. I intend to fix the bezels to the dash face, and their size is such that have a very small tolerance to give me some wriggle room if its needed.
Ive done a dry run without the (right) decals, and the system seems to work. the decals are visible through the clear "glass" apertures. Hopefully it will all work as planned , but I'm stuck until the damn decals Ive ordered arrive. Hopefully soon.
good news is that my aftermarket pilots seat has arrived from barracuda. looks terrific and I'm glad I went to the expense. Now all I have to figure out is the correct colour scheme to use .
The following is the only period contemporary image of the wicker pilot's "seat that have. Any suggestions what the colour of the leather trim might be and the best colour for the wicker itself, in Tamiya colours.......
Can also have a look at Post 60 which has an image showing the wickerwork being a straw colour (oddly enough) and the rim as a flat black or charcoal. I'm thinking some dark grey with a bit of flat black added
(Edit; here is the cockpit cutawayimage0
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Airframes
Benevolens Magister
The rim looks like black leather, so a very dark grey mix will do it, whilst the seat cushion appears to be a dark brown leather, so a dark brown with a touch of red mix.
Once the paint is dry, on the cushion at least, some very gentle dry-brushing with a very slightly darker shade will give a leather look, which can be lightly buffed to give a sheen.
Once the paint is dry, on the cushion at least, some very gentle dry-brushing with a very slightly darker shade will give a leather look, which can be lightly buffed to give a sheen.
I think that both of them should be of the brown leather tone. The pic source : Samolot myśliwski Sopwith Camel F.1 - walkaround - modelarstwo pasja hstoria hobby.
