- Thread starter
- #21
parsifal
Colonel
That was done with an XF 79 'Deck tan' base and XF 59 Desert yellow overwash applied as dry brushing. I will see if I can improve my application skills
<> **** DONE: 1/32 Sopwith Camel F.1 - WW1 / WW2 over Water.
- Thread starter parsifal
- Start date
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fubar57
General
Robert Porter
Senior Master Sergeant
Looks like you are narrowing in! Lots of good info here on woodgrain!!!! I bookmarked a lot of it!
Crimea_River
Marshal
Pretty good attempts there Michael. I'd say you're getting close.
- Thread starter
- #26
parsifal
Colonel
found a couple of instructional sites, don't have time right now to look but will take a closer look tonite. some of the techniques look interesting.....centred around using a darker oil based paint over a fairly light base. Exactly the opposite of what ive been trying to do
Applying woodgrain
Wood Grain Effect | Doogs' Models
Applying woodgrain
Wood Grain Effect | Doogs' Models
- Thread starter
- #28
parsifal
Colonel
no photos tonite but I did a couple of new test strips with a slight improvement in results, but still no cigar. I don't quite have the right kit yet as I don't have any oil paints of a suitable colour. I might go to the art supplies shop tomorrow and buy a tube of sienna or similar.
This is all baby steps so far, but ive worked out the best method for me so far is to apply the light shade as the base coat. Whilst I still don't have a marketable result yet, I can tell that dark as the over wash on a light basecoat as is recommended in the instruction link I posted is a better way than the other way round. Sponge or foam applied is better than brush applied.......I'm sure Ive seen foam applicators at the hardware store......I'm thinking a cheap foam applicator and oil based dark hue top coat applied over a solid lighter solid acrylic base coat.
if I cant get the woodgrain finish working I'll not lose too much sleep over it, a solid colour would not be the end of the world, though I admit if I cant master it I will be disappointed.
Will try to post some results tomorrow night guys but have a short trip for about a week coming up before the weekend...... .
This is all baby steps so far, but ive worked out the best method for me so far is to apply the light shade as the base coat. Whilst I still don't have a marketable result yet, I can tell that dark as the over wash on a light basecoat as is recommended in the instruction link I posted is a better way than the other way round. Sponge or foam applied is better than brush applied.......I'm sure Ive seen foam applicators at the hardware store......I'm thinking a cheap foam applicator and oil based dark hue top coat applied over a solid lighter solid acrylic base coat.
if I cant get the woodgrain finish working I'll not lose too much sleep over it, a solid colour would not be the end of the world, though I admit if I cant master it I will be disappointed.
Will try to post some results tomorrow night guys but have a short trip for about a week coming up before the weekend...... .
Robert Porter
Senior Master Sergeant
I will be very surprised if you don't master it, you seem to be on the right path and your other work shows your tenacity! Looking forward to seeing your take on it!
Airframes
Benevolens Magister
The wood effect is looking good so far, and I'm sure you'll get to where you want to be with it. Keep at it.
A4K
Brigadier General
Great choice Michael!
Well done with the wood grain effects so far too. If you (and Wayne) want to take a shortcut, a company called Uschi van der Rosten do lovely woodgrain decals - they look great on builds I've seen.
Another option is Eduard (IIRC) do woodgrain PE frets. You spray the base colour, then place fret over, mask off the panel, and spray with a different tone. Patience required, but also looks great on builds I've seen done.
Well done with the wood grain effects so far too. If you (and Wayne) want to take a shortcut, a company called Uschi van der Rosten do lovely woodgrain decals - they look great on builds I've seen.
Another option is Eduard (IIRC) do woodgrain PE frets. You spray the base colour, then place fret over, mask off the panel, and spray with a different tone. Patience required, but also looks great on builds I've seen done.
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vikingBerserker
Lieutenant General
That's pretty cool.
Night Fighter Nut
Master Sergeant
I know a method to paint a wood grain if you haven't done it yet.
Robert Porter
Senior Master Sergeant
Share! The more the merrier!
- Thread starter
- #36
parsifal
Colonel
Please do, haven't yet done any woodgraining on the kit itself....
- Thread starter
- #38
parsifal
Colonel
so, after many trial and error efforts, I may be making some progress. This is a base coat of Tamiya "Sand Yellow", with a brushed on overlay of "Burnet sienna" oil based paint. Whilst the top coat was still wet Ive applied a small spong scrape over the top to remove most of the Burnt sienna. I also accentuated the panel line underneath with a black marker pen. I lastly applied a coat of clear topcoat to give the finish that WWI shiny finish.
I think this is the technique that I can make work. I have to try other colour combos and techniques for different wood types (I still have to work out how to do a walnut IP finish,,,,,possibly dab the oil application.....
Tommorrow I go to Brisbane for a week. I'm might take the laptop with me to stay in touch, but no model building for a week....at least my wife will be happy........
Robert Porter
Senior Master Sergeant
That looks pretty convincing to me!
