1:32 Trumpeter TBM Avenger Build

Discussion in 'Start to Finish Builds' started by Builder 2010, Nov 7, 2016.

  1. Builder 2010

    Builder 2010 Member

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    So... the ECG showed my heart is now beating normally and there's no really sound reason why it's doing so, but I'm not arguing. On Friday, I started the canopy masking process. The back and mid-canopies are supposed to be glued together. Instead of using Hypo-cement which would have controlled the glue better, I chose (unwisely) to use the applicator brush in the Tamiya glue bottle. And this is what resulted.

    [​IMG]

    Needless to say, I was disgusted.

    So I let it dry overnight.

    Saturday I got in the shop and did some TBM work. I sanded the damaged canopy as best I could and then dipped it into Pledge Floor treatment with Future and hoped for the best. I also started using those wonderful Eduard canopy masked to cover all the intricate glazing. I completely masked the airframe using wet paper towels to plug the big areas and Tamiya masking tape for the smalller ones.

    [​IMG]

    Today, I found the now-cured canopy to be better, but not close to perfect. I decided that it was as good as it was going to get and masked it. The Eduard masks are incredibly accurate and if you position them correctly they fit very well. Don't be afraid to pull them off and reposition them. The adhesive dosn't lose its grip and they will still stick just fine even after several attempts. Most impressive were the ones for the windscreen and the gun turret.

    [​IMG]

    Burnish them down well with a burnishing tool (if you have one) and they don't leak. Just to be sure, I hit all of them first with Tamiya clear spray to seal the edges. The backsides are completely masked with Tamiya tape. I believe Tamiya tape and Eduard's masks are made from the same material.

    [​IMG]

    First color that goes on is interior green. Believe it or not, I just learned this trick recently. I always wondered how guys would get the inside colors on... masking inside? Really? This was airbrushed with Model Master Acrylic.

    [​IMG]

    After force drying this coat, I sprayed several light coats of Vallejo "Steel Blue) which is their name for Dark Sea Blue. Again I forced dried it so I could remove the tape today.

    While the green was drying I shot the airframe with Tamiya Grey Primer outside to give more tooth to the Vallejo acrylic which followed and to prime any bare metal that was still left like around the landing gear details.

    [​IMG]

    After pulling the tape, I was very impressed with the accuracy of the masks. They really worked well.

    [​IMG]

    In looking at this pic I realize that I neglected to paint the little triangular window that separates the cabin from the guner's area. I hate to do tiny jobs with the airbrush since it takes just as long to clean it as to spray the part (or longer). Here's the backside of all the glazing showing the interior green. Pretty slick!

    [​IMG]

    I sprayed the entire airframe the Vallejo blue. It wasn't spraying particually well and the spray pattern was very narrow, but after several force-dried coats, I got it covered. There were a couple of missed spots that I noticed after drying and I hand-brushed those for that same airbrush cleaning issue.

    [​IMG]

    Vallejo paints, even though they're no longer shiny, are not dry yet. It takes a good 24 hours for the paint to lose its tackiness and be completely capable of being touched with paint damage. So all of this will dry overnight. I need to get more clear gloss spray since that's the next step prior to decaling and any weathering I'm going to do. With the dark blue most weathering won't show very much. Besides, I'm not building this as a war-weary craft. In fact, I've been reading various threads about weathering and the condition of most war machinery has a lot to do with who the crew chief and the rest of the chain of command was. In some instances, the machinery was always spotless and others not so. In the modern Navy, most craft are very clean. They're kept that way out of pride, but more so since it's much easier to spot leaks and their source when the machine is basically spotless.

    Last thing I did was spray the prop tips yellow, force dry and then mask them. I then sprayed Tamiya gloss black over the entire surface. After force drying, I pulled the tape, and was satisfied with the results. Tomorrow I'll mask the black and spray bare metal on the hub and polished metal on the prop pitch piston cover. Having the gloss black as a base coat makes for better bare metal finishes.

    [​IMG]

    To facilitate handling the prop I clamped it into a pin vise. We're getting close to the end of this project.
     
  2. fubar57

    fubar57 Well-Known Member

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    Good news on the ticker. Looking good
     
  3. turbo

    turbo Active Member

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    Looks good, including the canopy frames. I buy masking sets for pretty much everything except the simplest canopies these days as they not only save time and frustration but yield a better result than when I cut them myself!
     
  4. JKim

    JKim Well-Known Member

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    Great work! I share your opinion of the Eduard masks. I find them to be VERY accurate and if they are not perfect, they can be coaxed into the correct position quite easily. They seem to have the ideal combination of flexibility (without deforming) and adhesion. I burnish the edges with a wooden toothpick.
     
  5. Lucky13

    Lucky13 Forum Mascot

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  6. Crimea_River

    Crimea_River Well-Known Member

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    Good news on the health front and nice work on the model. Chalk the canopy gluing up to experience.
     
  7. Wurger

    Wurger Siggy Master
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  8. Gnomey

    Gnomey World Travelling Doctor
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    Good work so far!
     
  9. Builder 2010

    Builder 2010 Member

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    #189 Builder 2010, Apr 19, 2017
    Last edited: Apr 21, 2017
    Thank you all!

    Yesterday, I masked the prop hub and sprayed it with rattle can Tamiya natural metal. I then intended to use the buffing metal paste for the hydrodynamic piston hub. If you all recall, I said that I'm not actually a patient man. I am persistent. My lack of patience always gets me in trouble. In this case, I attempted to do the buffing paste before the natural metal was set. I thought it was, but it wasn't AND because it's a solvent-based it started to melt away the gloss black below creating a mess. I removed all the black on the hub, and resprayed the natural metal. Then, after really letting it dry, applied the past successfully. Here's the results. The hub is reasonably shiny, but it could have been better.

    Prop Painted.JPG

    I had a little residue left on the paper towel I was using and I rubbed it on the prop's leading edges to give it a little wear.

    I sprayed all the blue stuff with the Pledge with Future Acrylic to create the gloss for the decals. This plane actually was gloss sea blue so it will get another coating after the deals are in place. I covered it while drying, but still ended up with a lot of dust in the surface which made me not happy. I used some steel wool to knock it down a bit, but it's not really good.

    Airframe Painted.JPG

    The radio mast was a flimsy styrene part that butted up to the center canopy rid. Not having much support, I was afraid it wouldn't perform very well so I made a brass part with a tang on the bottom that would epoxy into a hole in the rib. Unfortunately, when I finished drilling a 0.031" hole, the rib broke in two. I then repaired this by epoxying a brass bar underneath which really reinforced it.

    Canopy Fix.JPG

    I then epoxied the brass mast in place and it will cure overnight.

    New Radio Mast.JPG

    I applied the "Hamilton Standard" prop decals. I needed to drill a hole in the wheel hubs to accept the new brake lines.

    Brake Line Holes.JPG

    I also had overlooked putting in the wing fold lugs on the outboard wing tips. This little PE part had a tab that was supposed to engage in the box in the wing. With the wings glued together the box was no longer accessible. So I folded the tab over on itself and epoxied them into their respective opening. That problem solved.

    Wing Fold Anchor.JPG

    I airbrushed the assembled wheels, a triangular panel that opens when the wings are folder and the little piston assemblies that are simulating the rams that open and close the wings. It was then time to apply decals.

    TBM Decals.JPG

    I had trouble with those wing tip decals. They were very delicate, and being Cartograph, they had no added film extending beyond the graphic so they kept tearing. I also had a similar problem with the fleet insignia on the tail with one of those cross Shelalies on the bottom tearing off. I was able to get them back together.

    There are lots of stencils, but they're basically invisible against the dark blue so I'm not wasting time putting them on. I installed several and you can't see them.

    Tomorrow, I'll overcoat it again with clear gloss to blend it all together. I will try to control the dust better. I think it was on the plane when I sprayed it.
     
  10. Capt. Vick

    Capt. Vick Well-Known Member

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  11. Wayne Little

    Wayne Little Well-Known Member

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  12. turbo

    turbo Active Member

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    Like the look of it!
     
  13. Wurger

    Wurger Siggy Master
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  14. Crimea_River

    Crimea_River Well-Known Member

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    Really coming together.
     
  15. Builder 2010

    Builder 2010 Member

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    Thanks guys! Glad you're watching.

    I've been exercising on the bike and elliptical every two days (or trying to) and today was one of those days so I didn't get into the shop until after 3:00, so I didn't get enough done, but I got some stuff done.

    First I painted the new brass radio antenna support and the brass reinforcement bar beneath.

    [​IMG]

    I painted those triangular access panels that open to enable the wings to fold with the inside interior green and the outside deep sea blue. I painted the running lights will go on after everything's done. I painted the back sides chrome silver and the lenses either Tamiya clear green or red. I also painted chrome silver the inside of the area on the wing where the four lights will go. The tip lights get covered by a streamlined clear part. There's another light that goes on the dorsal fuselage that stays clear which also got the chrome back treatment.

    [​IMG]

    The only thing I paint with these two colors are lenses, therefore these two bottles last for years. There's no solid pigment so they don't dry out.

    I picked out some details on the airframe that needed doing such as the red stick in the wing fold area that is the manual release handle for the wing fold lock and a couple of silver details. According the to prototype very little is anything but deep sea blue. I'm going to paint the hydraulic hoses flat black along with the brake lines on the main gear. I need to paint the walk ways one the wings with flat clear. Right now they're very glossy which they would not be.

    I carefully glued on the gyro compass into position inside the top of windscreen. I used Hypo Cement to give a very controlled amount of glue so I didn't screw up any more glazing.

    [​IMG]

    I made the wheels. After spraying gloss on the prop I put some Tamiya clear smoke on the prop hub to highlight the details.

    [​IMG]

    I'm going to airbrush exhaust streaks on the fuze sides once it's all nice and dry. I then gave the fuze another coat of Pledge. This dried much more nicely than the first coat. The Vallejo Steel Blue is almost the exact same shade as the blue in the stars and bars. I pulled off all the masks tonight and was pleased for the most part. A bit of interior green was pulled off in the radio area and I'll have to go back and touch up the fuze edges after the canopies are all glued on.

    [​IMG]

    We're very near the end. Tomorrow I'll start putting on all that's not on and do some mild weathering. I'm at a loss since this blue is so dark, so shiny and so pervasive that none of the normal things will be seen. I suppose I could have used a more faded color in the panel centers to bring out their contrast, but that plane has left the hanger. Since I actually have a blog follower who owns a real blue TBM that's being restored, mine is going to look like a restored plane that is not all beat up.
     
  16. Airframes

    Airframes Benevolens Magister

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    Looking good - nice work.
    BTW, the pics are missing from Post #189.
     
  17. turbo

    turbo Active Member

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    Coming along nicely. For weathering, you could try some lighter shades for washes - anything from burnt umber to a tan/buff "Pacific dust" type shade, depending on the look you after. You could consider oil dot fading in place of airbrushing, but I'm not quite sure that's the right method to use over a gloss sea blue finish.
     
  18. Wurger

    Wurger Siggy Master
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    :thumbright:

    And I agree with Terry on the missing images.
     
  19. Builder 2010

    Builder 2010 Member

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    Images are back! I had done some reorganization of pictures in PhotoBucket and moved them to a new folder. The pointer lost its direction. The new pics are loaded directly from my files. In looking at yesterday's pics I realized how visible the backs of those electronic boxes were under the canopy (which I trial fitted) and I should have spent the time on adding some leads. I spent a lot of time on the wing fold details. I could have spent more time on the cockpit wiring.
     
  20. Airframes

    Airframes Benevolens Magister

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    Good stuff.
    Just re-read the part about the buffing paste. If you want a really smooth, shiny metal look for future projects, try using forensic finger print powder.
    It's very, very fine grain aluminium powder, and gives an exceptionally shiny finish when dusted on and then polished off.
    It's the same stuff that used to be marketed as the polishing powder for SNJ Spray Metal, at about 1/10th of the cost, and a 'demo' and instructions can be seen in the thread I posted some years back, titled 'Bare Metal Made Easy'.
    The F-104 below shows how the finish looks after applying to ordinary silver enamel, in this instance the paint being from Revell.
    For small areas such as your prop boss, it can be applied using either a small paint brush, or a cotton bud (Q Tip), and then polished with a soft clot or cotton wool.




    DSCF0001 (14).JPG
     
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