1/48 A-20G Havoc

[Aaron Brooks Wolters]

Thank you Andy, I wish I could get the yellow line that boxes in the center gauge cluster sharper but I can't think of anything that would work.

 

[Airframes]

Was it just 2 photos missing Aaron? If the Russian book came through, then similar pics are in there anyway. The two pics were of the port and starboard cockpit wall, and should have been pics, not links! Ah well!
If you think you need them, let me know and I'll find another way of doing it.
As for the yellow line, try using the point of a toothpick, like a pen, or even the point of a pin or needle. Either that or slightly thinned yellow enamel, with a fine lining brush. Enamels will work much better than acrylics for fine lines, but normally react with acrylics.
However, in such small lines, it will probably be OK, and will be OK if the area is clear coated and allowed to set for at least 24 hours.

 

[Aaron Brooks Wolters]

I doubt that I need them now. It was the very last E-mail you sent. It had to Flickr links that didn't work. The previous one with the Russian Came through fine. I tried a needle, 31 gauge, it didn't work so I moved to a sharp plastic toothpick and that's what you see on the dash. Doesn't look so hot. I need some more practice and maybe use a wooden toothpic.

 

[Airframes]

Ah, those pics were, I think, a link on my PC - that explains things!
A wooden cocktail stick should do the job.

 

[Aaron Brooks Wolters]

Thank you!

 

[Vic Balshaw]

Damn me if there not a fine looking set of panels Aaron, very nicely done.

 

[Aaron Brooks Wolters]

Thanks Vic, the entire model is like this. I have to do some touch up on the instrument panel but I think I can do the model a little justice.

 

[javlin]

Aaron I have in the past and granted it was I/32 but did the yellow bar buy cutting up some yellow decals.Now you do not have a ton of kits in the stash to go raid the decals but you can but yellow lines or a full yellow sheet and cut from the LHS. Cheers

 

[vikingBerserker]

Very cool choice Aaron, just came across this one.

 

[Aaron Brooks Wolters]

Javlin, thank you for the advice on the line. I have already got the cockpit assembled but the next time I run into this I will sure use it sir.
Thank you David, I have a thing for heavily armed aircraft (I have a B-25J to do next with 12 fifty cals in the nose). Now if I could only find a YB-40 gunship. Here are some shots of the cockpit and dorsal turret. The turret assembly even has the radio mounted under the seat. Once I get the bombs and bomb rack detailed and assembled I can put the fuselage together and it dry fit really nice. I will have to do a minimal amount of filling between the cockpit and turret to fill the seam.

 

[Wayne Little]

Aaron, that is looking real good mate!

 

[Aaron Brooks Wolters]

Thank you Wayne. I still have a lot to learn but a lot of it is coming back and the fact that I paint cars helps a lot to.

 

[T Bolt]

Very nice Aaron!

 

[Lucky13]

Very, veeerrryyy nice Aaron!

 

[Aaron Brooks Wolters]

Thank you Glenn and Jan!

 

[ozhawk40]

Very good progress there ABW. A-20's are one of my favourite and your doing great.8)

Cheers

Peter

 

[javlin]

Hey Aaron got a question since you paint.What is the exact difference between Lacquer thinner and lets say thinner.I use enamel paints with lacquer thinner in a medium dry time am I wrong?I have not seen any drastic effect persay but I have seen some seperation of thinner from the paint if I let it sit to long.Thks in advance.Kevin

 

[Aaron Brooks Wolters]

Thank you Peter.
Javlin, I have seen people mix lacquer with enamel to thin it and have not seen anything bad come from it but it is my understanding that it can cause some serious problems if you have to go back and touch it up, such as what they call crazing which is the paint will wrinkle up. And it may cause layer separation, but like I've said earlier, I have not seen any problems from it. I don't use lacquer on cars except for guide coat so. With the enamel paint that I use on the models I just bring home some of the urethane reducer that we have at the shop. It is not as aggressive as the lacquer thinner and is made to work with enamel so I'm pretty sure unless I screw up on my pre-paint-prep I won't have a problem. Sorry I couldn't be of more help but not having done what your doing I don't know to much about it but I will make a note to ask my paint rep and see what he says about it for I am curious to know also.

 

[javlin]

This word "urethane reducer " will help alot Aaron will look this morning to see if we got it in the store,I am sure we do.Aaron javlin=kevin

 

[Aaron Brooks Wolters]

It is the same thing they sell at the hobby shops as enamel thinner, sorry, I should have explained that. My bad.