Crimea_River
Marshal
As easy as typing "Google".
1/48 Fw-190A3 - Defense of Britain/Atlantic.
- Thread starter Donivanp
- Start date
Ad: This forum contains affiliate links to products on Amazon and eBay. More information in Terms and rules
le_steph40
Chief Master Sergeant
Good work so far!
Airframes
Benevolens Magister
Typing in their new typeface, or the old ? !!
- Thread starter
- #25
Donivanp
Major
Vic Balshaw
Major General
Coming along nicely Don.
Crimea_River
Marshal
Looks good.
JKim
Senior Master Sergeant
Nice going on the corrections Don. The Wurger is coming together nicely!
Chunk
Airman
This is my favorite variant of the Würger, and Faber's plane in particular is my favorite color scheme. I've got a Thomas Gunn model of this plane sitting on my desk, as well a huge profile print of it on my office wall. AFAIK, this was the only pure fighter version of the 190 that was captured by the Allies during the war. I've also heard that this was actually Hans "Assi" Hahn's plane, that Faber just borrowed for the day. Any confirmation on that?
Needless to say, I'm looking forward to watching this build.
Needless to say, I'm looking forward to watching this build.
Wasn't Hahn's aircraft, his 190 carried a chevron triangle marking.
Chunk
Airman
Thank you Wayne.
- Thread starter
- #33
Donivanp
Major
Airframes
Benevolens Magister
Looks pretty good Don. However, the photos of Faber's aircraft appear to show a less distinct mottle, more of a 'misted' application of joined mottle 'splotches'.
Maybe tone it down a touch with a light misting of the underside colour ?
Maybe tone it down a touch with a light misting of the underside colour ?
Crimea_River
Marshal
Not a bad effort. "Truthful comments":
- Agree with Terry that mottles are too pronounced. It appears your paint/thinner ratio is a bit on the high side and that you are holding the brush too far away. That's giving you the spatters outside of the mottle that shouldn't be there. I still have not perfected this myself but find I get the most success with thinning the paint a lot (40%paint to 60% thinner or more) and, holding the brush very close to the model and at about 15psi pressure open the valve on the brush a small amount and quickly move the brush in an irregular circular pattern. This takes tons of practice. Now Wayne will tell you he does this at a HIGH pressure, maybe 30 to 40psi and neither are wrong. Here's a sample of a more subtle mottle:
If you look closely, you can see that, after doing the grey mottles, I went back over some of the areas with a very thin spray of RLM 76 to take some of the starkness out of the mottles. That's something you can still do to tone down your mottles a bit and get rid of the spattered areas.
- The wing pattern is not too bad but IMHO, the edge demarcation is too dispersed for the same reason given above. Freehanding a camo pattern in 1/48 scale is tough and I've tried both freehanding and masking, the latter using any technique that holds the edge of the mask slightly proud of the surface so that you get a bit of spray going under the mas to represent a soft edge. To do the freehand well, you need to hold the brush at a shallow angle to spray the edge. This limits the width of the soft edge and more represents reality at this small scale. Below is an example of a free hand edge I did on a 1/48 Spit. The model contest judges did critique this edge as being not quite tight enough:
Compare that to another Spit done using the raised mask technique and you'll see that the demrcation is a lot tighter, maybe even too tight:
I struggle at 1/48 but feel that the masked technique is probably closer to the real thing. For a 1/32 scale model I would not hestitate to freehand but at 1/72, masking is the only way to go.
- Agree with Terry that mottles are too pronounced. It appears your paint/thinner ratio is a bit on the high side and that you are holding the brush too far away. That's giving you the spatters outside of the mottle that shouldn't be there. I still have not perfected this myself but find I get the most success with thinning the paint a lot (40%paint to 60% thinner or more) and, holding the brush very close to the model and at about 15psi pressure open the valve on the brush a small amount and quickly move the brush in an irregular circular pattern. This takes tons of practice. Now Wayne will tell you he does this at a HIGH pressure, maybe 30 to 40psi and neither are wrong. Here's a sample of a more subtle mottle:
If you look closely, you can see that, after doing the grey mottles, I went back over some of the areas with a very thin spray of RLM 76 to take some of the starkness out of the mottles. That's something you can still do to tone down your mottles a bit and get rid of the spattered areas.
- The wing pattern is not too bad but IMHO, the edge demarcation is too dispersed for the same reason given above. Freehanding a camo pattern in 1/48 scale is tough and I've tried both freehanding and masking, the latter using any technique that holds the edge of the mask slightly proud of the surface so that you get a bit of spray going under the mas to represent a soft edge. To do the freehand well, you need to hold the brush at a shallow angle to spray the edge. This limits the width of the soft edge and more represents reality at this small scale. Below is an example of a free hand edge I did on a 1/48 Spit. The model contest judges did critique this edge as being not quite tight enough:
Compare that to another Spit done using the raised mask technique and you'll see that the demrcation is a lot tighter, maybe even too tight:
I struggle at 1/48 but feel that the masked technique is probably closer to the real thing. For a 1/32 scale model I would not hestitate to freehand but at 1/72, masking is the only way to go.
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #36
Donivanp
Major
Andy, that is just what I was asking for, the wings I knew about. I am used to doing USAF camouflage patterns, SEA most common. I've done the mask, setting proud before, but I am used to going over the camo several times to get what I need. This won't work for the British or German planes of WWII. I'll be working on some of your suggestion. Many many thanks.
Crimea_River
Marshal
You're welcome Don. I do need to get back to my Me 262 soon so I can practice some more!
- Thread starter
- #38
Donivanp
Major
I'm not real happy with the dark grey also. It looks way to dark. But when I compare it to the museum piece or you 109, it's way off. Calls for RLM 74,75, 76' but the 76 is wrong or I can't read. Maybe both.
Don .. it can come in handy... Antrvm Ratvs - Luftwaffe late war modeling colors - a small comparison
and also here ..,.. Plastic surgery: Eagle editon RLM chips. Comparison between Gunze acrylics and Tamiya mixes..
Additionally I found this comparison for German RLM colours. It should be useful too.
The pic source .. Luftwaffe RLM colours Idiot guide - WWII - Britmodeller.com
But the one is worth to visit as well... AeroScale :: WW2 colours and RLM paint chart by Peter Hawkins
and also here ..,.. Plastic surgery: Eagle editon RLM chips. Comparison between Gunze acrylics and Tamiya mixes..
Additionally I found this comparison for German RLM colours. It should be useful too.
The pic source .. Luftwaffe RLM colours Idiot guide - WWII - Britmodeller.com
But the one is worth to visit as well... AeroScale :: WW2 colours and RLM paint chart by Peter Hawkins
Last edited:
Andy has given a great answer, a good pattern can be achieved high or low pressure but you need to get your paint and thinner mix right either way as well as your chosen way, freehand or masking..and practice lots!
and yeah I think the Dark grey is a tad too dark.
and yeah I think the Dark grey is a tad too dark.
Users who are viewing this thread
Similar threads
