1/8 Mig-3 But not really.

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Parfisal,

Thank you for that.

Wurger,

Testors bottles or Testors spray? I'm not sure there is a Testors spray?

500 squares on the wing, no idea what the squares are on the stab/elevator or the fuselage bottom?

I didn't want to use my airbrush for these large areas.

The painting, BTW, was done with a brush. Well, not just one. Couple of sizes. LOL.

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[Wurger]

Nope. These two posted above Testors/ModelMaster colours are in bottles. Of course they are for applying with an airbrush or a brush.

But if you want a paint in spray cans you may use the Testors enamel spray can : Yellow - Gloss 1214T or Yellow - Gloss 1214C or Bug Yellow - Gloss 1632T or Bug Yellow - Gloss 282614. Their samples you can find here... I would say the Yellow - Gloss 1214T or Yellow - Gloss 1214C look good.

Testors

Testors

 

[Blacklist]

Wurger,

Yes, Testors spray cans. They are tiny and I would need a bunch of them. Can't go gloss because, as I did mention some Posts ago, the model will have to be cleared for fuel protection.

I spray no paint or clears over shiny gloss paint. With the gloss, I would have to scratch it up. Just another thing to do.

Here's another painting. Yes, I'm showing off. LOL.

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[Wurger]

I don't think the gloss kind of the paint is something that may stop you aginst applying the clear gloss coat for protection. I had my 1/10 scale Yak-3 line control model covered with gloss paints then with the clear protecting varnish. All was OK.
The problem is if the Testors yellow enamel can be covered with the clear coat you usually use.

 

[Blacklist]

No, I don't just do aviation images. Thanks for asking.

This is the absolute last painting I did some years ago, well, except for this tennis image I've been working on for years. I may redo it with a DC-3 cowling. I was never delighted with the auto.

As I said, this tennis thing isn't finished. The Mig-3 is more important.

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[Wurger]

Seen my post above? We might have criss-crossed posts.

 

[Blacklist]

I don't think the gloss kind of the paint is something that may stop you aginst applying the clear gloss coat for protection. I had my 1/10 scale Yak-3 line control model covered with gloss paints then with the clear protecting varnish. All was OK.
The problem is if the Testors yellow enamel can be covered with the clear coat you usually use.

Wurger,

The reason I scratch most layers up is because I just want to be sure. Last thing I need is a repair because pulling the tape removed something. Especially with mixed brands.

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[Wurger]

Hummm... so.. how do you prepare all surfaces of a model for applying colours and the protecting coat?

 

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Wurger,

I've built some large models 90" being the largest and 42" being the smallest.

Once I get the model to primer I use auto paints. Base coat clear coat. Base coats are flat and, if I stay with the same brand, require no sanding. However, I will block the tape edge to knock it down.

I don't know if I've posted this photo or not? The model has hand applied lettering, gold leaf, base coat clear coat. 55" in span.

Now, rather than mess with auto paint, I'm playing around with aerosol cans when I can get away with it.

I do want to bridge over to water base paint. That's one of the reasons I'm here.

Here's my model painted in 1989 using auto paints. I don't take many photos.

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[Wurger]

I understood. Do you cover a model with tissue ( called in Poland "Japanese paper") or the covering is made of balsa ?

Concerning the lettering.. it is easier to make such things as decals and seal with the clear coat. I know it may be a little bit too expensive there but here in Poland many modellers make them in the way.

 

[Gnomey]

Looking good so far!

 

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Gnomey,

Thanks for that, I can always use a boost.

Wurger,

That particular model has foam core wings that are covered with fiberglass cloth and resin. Primer then paint.

Back then, the 80's, there were no gold leaf vinyls available like today's peel n stick gold leaf. Remember, I have a cutter, those number "12" I did for John. BTW. Where is John?

I do know of Japan tissue because I built many rubber powered models. The Japan tissue was the thinnest.

A few more photos of that R/C model.

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[Wurger]

I see. So if there is the fiberglass cloth and the resin primered you shouldn't have any troubles with painting. Because there is the large surface you may use a nozzle of a bigger diameter for airbrushing.

 

[Blacklist]

Wurger,

Yes, that's true, however the spray pattern is round and not elongated. Plus, much is metallic.

I used a small automotive jam gun for all the areas you see except the clear. Full size spray gun for that.

The toned down British flag graphics were actually brushed by hand, although masked for a clean edge, using fast dry "Don's brushing laquers," which became NLA in the mid 90's. Don's laquers were really great paint. The black is actually One Shot enamel. The gold leaf is 23K leaf.

Done correctly, you could have a great, light finish. Weight is an issue. I never flew that model, I sold in for money. LOL

I only use the airbrush tool for art illustrations and custom graphics on vehicles, etc.
So, the airbrush tool was not used on this model or any other model I've built, except for the Mig-3. That's why I'm here steeling ideas and detail techniques. I did surface and appologize for that. LOL

Besides other stuff, I did and still do nose art on jackets. Mostly by hand because that's the way they were done in that period. However, some guys want a more contemporary look, so I start up the airbrush for some areas and hand brush others. Sometimes I use "masks," like for "Tom's Aviation." A mask was used for the gold lettering logo and everything else was brushed.

I did this jacket in the early 90's when Nose Art was popular. As I said, I don't take many photos and these will be poor photos to say the least.

Blacklist.

 

[Wurger]

OK. I see. Nicely done. .

 

[Blacklist]

Wurger,

Thanks for that.

Funny how one loses a bit of confidence with age.

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[parsifal]

May I ask a rather dumb question....how do you stop the paint on the leather from cracking?

 

[Blacklist]

May I ask a rather dumb question....how do you stop the paint on the leather from cracking?

Parsifal,

The cracking is never an issue, If it happens, so be it. Guys like them aged.

In many cases, I use white artists acrylic as a base, generally brushing colors on top of that layer with One Shot enemal sign painter's paint.

Each jacket is a bit different, but are basically the same. You can see where the airbrush is used and solid lettering is generally done free hand by brush.

Some lettering looks uneven, but that's because of the jacket. Laid out flat the lettering looks even.

Customer tells you what they want and tries to provide art. Even it it's poor. And it generally is.

Thanks for the interest.

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Edited: The artists acrylic and the One Shot, is flexible. That's the non issue.

 

[Blacklist]

Wurger,

Just read your reply.

Automotive clear coat will go over just about anything without issues.

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[JKim]

Just checking in on your MiG! I don't read this board much especially if I don't have a current build here. I've got a couple of builds going on in the Jet Age Group Build.

The details on the cowling are very good. Very impressive work and I really like the examples of your art!