1/8 Mig-3 But not really.

[Blacklist]

Wurger,

Liquitex baltic green with Liquitex white added. The baltic green is a bit to dark straight out of the plastic jar.

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[Blacklist]

Spit givith and spit takith away.

I burnished the nose area with a cotton rag and spit. Yes, spit. We all have it.

Pressure and duration determined the amount of the brown wash that needed to be removed from that overdone nose area.

I didn't remove all of it but I really thinned it out.

Not totally but I am a bit pleased with the outcome.

Something I can live with on this 1/8 semi-scale Mig-3 model. The test bed for my Stuka.

I'm charging the camera battery, but I'll get photos.

So. Can I draw a conclusion, that with waterbased paints that are extremely reduced with water, CAN be easily removed with a cotton rag, burnishing and spit?

I'm not trying to make a joke out of this. Well, maybe a little.

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Edited with recent photos.

You can see from the other photos that the nose area is now miled down.
I can live with this.

 

[destrozas]

exceptional work,that amount of time and patience are demonstrating to have, by the time the work is a punishment out to the airfield in case you have an accident, as I spend my with my spitfire

 

[Blacklist]

Destrozas,

Thanks for the reply.

There's not as much time spent on this model as you might think. Thank goodness.

Spitfire? Full size or model?

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[Lucky13]

Outstanding work mate!

 

[Blacklist]

Lucky 13,

Thanks for that. You're being generous.

Crude actually, but not all that bad for what it is.

This is the test model, learning experience, for my Stuka.

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[Blacklist]

Airbrushed a couple more areas. A tad to dark.

 

[Blacklist]

This is the first time I've used waterbased paints finishing a model.

Since the mid 80's all I ever used was auto paint and auto clears. Guys used Epoxy paints before that. I never liked Epoxy paints.

I built and finished this model in the late 80's. All auto paints.

I don't like Rust-o-leum areosol can paint. I prefer Krylon. However, the only matt yellow available was with Rust-o-leum.

This yellow on the gear doors is only a base coat just to cover. Same yellow for the underside of the Mig-3, just to cover.

I'll use a waterbase yellow over that, applied nose to tail with my airbrush.

I added a few rivets and detailing to that small area and gave the nose area a couple coats of Liquitex mat clear. Can't take away now but I can add. These areas are done.

This is the waterbase yellow I have. I don't know if this is the correct color for the bottom?

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[Blacklist]

I'm wondering about this color yellow which I have on the gear doors?

Certainly isn't a bright yellow, but did they use a bright yellow for the underside?

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[fubar57]

Model is coming along nicely, enjoying the build. I believe this is the color you're after. RLM04...

Geo

 

[Blacklist]

Geo,

OK, is that color available in model paints? Jars for airbrush, aerosol?

I didn't see it when I purchased that little Tamyia spray can?

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[fubar57]

This isn't complete....

View attachment RLMv2.pdf

...someone else should come along with other options.



Geo

 

[Blacklist]

Geo,

Thanks for that but, I cannot open the PDF file. Old PC.

That color is killing me.

Here's the thing. I have 500+ sq. in. of wing area to spray plus the elevator, stab and underbelly of the model.

Airbrush?

I might cheat with the color and look for something close in an aerosol can.

Shame on me.

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[fubar57]

I hope these help. Here is a site you might like...Urban's Color Reference Charts - Part I


Geo

 

[Blacklist]

Geo,

Thanks for that chart.

I do appreciate the interest and the help.

I couldn't really find anything that could take care of the area I need to paint in a limited amount of time. I really need an auto detail gun, or jam gun as we called them.

I have a couple but I'm not going to start them up for this model.

I did mention aerosol cans.

I found two colors of yellow, each a bit different, quite a bit different in fact.

I think if I apply a coat of one yellow then do a top coat with the other yellow, carefully, I may just get the color I need. Possibly.

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[Blacklist]

OK, OK, so you're laughing at this. That's OK and you can tell me that.

Wait and see.

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[Wurger]

Back to the yellow colour.. if you want you may use the Cadmium Yellow Medium Hue of the Liquitex Matt Paints series. I think it would match to the FS 33538. Also you may mix the Primary Yellow of the same paint series with Cadmium Yellow Deep Hue at 70/30% ratio, IMHO.

 

[Blacklist]

Wurger,

Yes, you are correct. However, that would be costly.

I know Liquitex quite well actually, I use Liquitex and Golden acrylics for the art I do.

Here's a peek.

 

[Wurger]

I see. So you may use the Testors/ModelMaster enamel RLM04 no.2072 or the Testors/ModelMaster Semi-Gloss Gelb RLM04 Acrylic Paint no.4771. Both of them shouldn't be too expensive.

 

[parsifal]

Outstanding effort and results. Well done