My pleasure. These masks look good. However I would be careful of the riveting. Most of MiG-3 frame was made of wood. The rudder and stabilizers were o metal that's true. But these parts were fabric skinned what means tthat the metal frames of them were veneered with the canvas making the rivets covered and hidden IMHO. I don't think Soviets would rivet fabric skin to the metal frame. Also rivet lines on the metal parts aren't noticable as much as it can be expected. I think the reason for that is these rivets were of the flush-head rivet type and the coats of the primer and colour sealed the lines around them. It seems that the rivet lines can be better seen at the metal skin of the centerwing , especially of MiG-3 wrecks. Here a couple of pics.
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- Thread starter
- #62
Yep.. these are John's pics methinks. But he have had to "blunt" the relief printing by sanding as I recall. Actually the manufacturer of the kit exaggerated a little bit. Here two shots I found via the net... can you see?
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- Thread starter
- #64
No, I haven't lost interest, I've just been busy.
Busy placing all these rivets on the model, one rivet at a time.
I'm kidding!
I actually made the "strips" of .07" rivets on my cutter. Same way I made that 12 for John.
Took some doing, and yes I had some difficulty. But I, "Got er done!"
Please, remember, this is NOT a true scale model. I'm experimenting, rivets in areas and holes in other areas.
I'll know more about the result when I apply some paint, sand a bit and possibly an light oil wash. John, I'm copying your moves.
We'll see.
Busy placing all these rivets on the model, one rivet at a time.
I'm kidding!
I actually made the "strips" of .07" rivets on my cutter. Same way I made that 12 for John.
Took some doing, and yes I had some difficulty. But I, "Got er done!"
Please, remember, this is NOT a true scale model. I'm experimenting, rivets in areas and holes in other areas.
I'll know more about the result when I apply some paint, sand a bit and possibly an light oil wash. John, I'm copying your moves.
We'll see.
Nicely done so far!
- Thread starter
- #67
Thank you for the favorable comments.
I added color to the nose and a bunch of cut vinyl rivets as I did on the tail feathers.
Scratched up the color layer a bit to resemble weathering? Well, it's not a scale model.
I'll through a layer of clear over this then do an oil wash that I hope will bring everything together? The wash will make the edges stand out and hopefully the rivets a bit.
We'll see.
I added color to the nose and a bunch of cut vinyl rivets as I did on the tail feathers.
Scratched up the color layer a bit to resemble weathering? Well, it's not a scale model.
I'll through a layer of clear over this then do an oil wash that I hope will bring everything together? The wash will make the edges stand out and hopefully the rivets a bit.
We'll see.
- Thread starter
- #69
Gentlemen,
With all due respect. I did say I came into the Forum to spy on the gifted. I only surfaced out of guilt. A reason probably as good as any. LOL.
With that said, I have already learned quite a bit. Thank you.
So, I can handle criticism quite well, in fact, I'm a master at taking it. And I appreciate it. How else can I learn, especially from those modelers who are more talented.
So, I'm asking for help. Am I on or off track here with simulating detail?
Too much? Too little? Totally wrong? Incorrect approach?
What needs fixing or change? HELP!!
This is just the nose, I have an entire model left. Yikes! :-O
You cannot hurt my feelings. I'm stone cold. LOL.
With all due respect. I did say I came into the Forum to spy on the gifted. I only surfaced out of guilt. A reason probably as good as any. LOL.
With that said, I have already learned quite a bit. Thank you.
So, I can handle criticism quite well, in fact, I'm a master at taking it. And I appreciate it. How else can I learn, especially from those modelers who are more talented.
So, I'm asking for help. Am I on or off track here with simulating detail?
Too much? Too little? Totally wrong? Incorrect approach?
What needs fixing or change? HELP!!
This is just the nose, I have an entire model left. Yikes! :-O
You cannot hurt my feelings. I'm stone cold. LOL.
- Thread starter
- #71
You may be right thinking the weathering is a little bit too extreme for the engine cowling. But I don't know if you are going to apply another colour there. If you are , the another coat of a paint can cover a lot there and make the entire surface looking better you can expect. Pesonally I'm not a great fan of applying of too much of "heavy" weathering because ( IMHO of course ) it is a feature of derelicted/damaged wrecks , burnt planes or kites that spent a lot of time under a "cloud" in rain , sunlight etc.... In fact most of operational planes is kept in a good condition by maintence crews. If you look at pictures of captured by Nazi Germans MiG-3s you may notice that even damaged wrecks or abandoned ones look quite "fresh". Of course not always but mostly.
- Thread starter
- #73
Wurger,
Correct.
As I said, I'm not all that delighted with the results either. In fact, I'm not delighted at all.
Agree, too much weathering, oil stains? Probably not even needed?
Possibly a gray line for the removable panel lines instead of black also. Possibly no black at all anyplace?
I'm not sure if I can fix this mess with a simple spraying of an overcoat of that original base color?
The exhausts are painted aluminum tubes now epoxied in place.
The engine/tank hatch is removed for that task.
You don't just do, one must think. Think about everything.
The learning process.
I would really like this improved. Repair suggestions?
Blacklist
Correct.
As I said, I'm not all that delighted with the results either. In fact, I'm not delighted at all.
Agree, too much weathering, oil stains? Probably not even needed?
Possibly a gray line for the removable panel lines instead of black also. Possibly no black at all anyplace?
I'm not sure if I can fix this mess with a simple spraying of an overcoat of that original base color?
The exhausts are painted aluminum tubes now epoxied in place.
The engine/tank hatch is removed for that task.
You don't just do, one must think. Think about everything.
The learning process.
I would really like this improved. Repair suggestions?
Blacklist
It looks reallly good methinks. If you would spray the overcoat of that original base color it could help. But the paint layer has to be very thin, almost transparent. Also the camo colours airbrushed directly on that you have at the moment in the same way should help too. Of course the colour for the engine cowling depends on the variant of the camo scheme. The Winter one - silver or white, the Summer one - green, black or green with black spots. Generally, the work done so far is a good base for applying of the camo colours IMHO.
- Thread starter
- #75
Oh.. that's a captured kite. I don't think there is a reason for starting from scratch. Just as I have said above.... spray a thin and semi-transparent layer of the original base color overall in order to soften the heavy weathering. The base colour should be a little bit more thinned if you want to get the transparent layer . Then you may re-apply the wash for the panel lines using both the grey/black and silver paints. That's all, nothing more is needed methinks.
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- Thread starter
- #77
If you have used the water colour as the base paint you can use the same paint. The more of thinner ( water ) is added the more transparent coat is. Just use the techinque called pre-shading. The pre-shading has already been appled. So now you have to apply the base colour again but of a thin ( transparent ) layer.
Before you can start.... please tell me how and you painted the engine cowling. I mean what kind of paints you used and the order of the applying. Has it been the clear top coat appled?
Before you can start.... please tell me how and you painted the engine cowling. I mean what kind of paints you used and the order of the applying. Has it been the clear top coat appled?
- Thread starter
- #79
Wurger,
No clear at all yet.
Paints are airbrush Liquitex concentrated. Left over from my stash.
Sprayed solid base with finger tip applied brown, rub n spread direction of air flow. Spit also. LOL. Quick, plenty of it and it works.
Eventually, the entire model will get a two part auto clear matt top coat.
Has to be fuel proofed.
I'm tempted to leave it, but it looks so lame. I over did it.
Blacklist
No clear at all yet.
Paints are airbrush Liquitex concentrated. Left over from my stash.
Sprayed solid base with finger tip applied brown, rub n spread direction of air flow. Spit also. LOL. Quick, plenty of it and it works.
Eventually, the entire model will get a two part auto clear matt top coat.
Has to be fuel proofed.
I'm tempted to leave it, but it looks so lame. I over did it.
Blacklist
