AK Xtreme Metal paints tests

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I agree with most of the comments and conclusions in that review, but the smell, although quite pleasant, is also strong, and I had a headache and sore throat after spraying.
Also, be wary about primers, and test these, with the AK paints, before committing to a model.

I used the AK Aluminium on my Mirage build in the current GB, and had a real disaster. I'd watched AK's own promotional / tutorial video, and read and watched a number of reviews before using these paints, where the AK black base was used, a primer was used, and also spraying on to bare plastic.
I tested the paints by spraying on to smooth, clean bare plastic (an old 1/32nd scale Spitfire wing), and the results varied between reasonable to good, with the good being a nice, smooth, shiny finish. The reasonable result was less shiny, showed some 'grain' and slight patchy effects, but had been sprayed at around 15 psi. The improvement, on the 'Good' result was sprayed at around 20 psi.
Having established that a primer could be used, and wanting to check seams on the Mirage, I applied a grey primer, in the form of Humbrol enamel. This was left to cure for around 15 to 20 hours, perhaps longer, then lightly buffed to give a smooth surface.
I had learned that the AK black base really only gives depth and shine to the metal finish, so at this point I could not see any advantage in using it, as I wanted a more 'neutral' metal finish.
The AK Aluminium was then sprayed, and went on easily enough, but with a dull, very grainy and rough finish. Within a minute or so, 'orange peel' and bubbling occurred, especially around raised detail.

The airbrush was cleaned using the AK cleaner, which worked very well. However, since using these paints, I have had trouble with the airbrush, and it's evident that the seals, and the trigger group, have been affected by the paints / cleaner, and this has been confirmed by the 'brush supplier - the 'brush is one of the inexpensive but reliable AB range which, although tolerant of enamels if regularly cleaned, do not like strong solvent-based paints. A new Harder and Steenbeck brush is due to arrive as I type this.

Since spraying the AK paint (just before the Christmas holiday), I have done a couple of small tests on the Mirage, to see if the paint can be removed.
Ordinary White Spirit (Turpentine substitute) was wiped onto a small area, and had an immediate effect, clouding the paint, which was easily rubbed through to the primer with a finger tip. If left to dry, without attempting to clean off the paint, the surface stains, and the base colouir can be seen below.
Although I have yet to try it, I think that the AK cleaner will easily remove the paint, and the model will be painted, with enamels, in a 'solid colour' scheme of blue with 'silver' under surfaces.

The pics below show the model with the primer coat (before buffing),, and after spraying the AK Aluminium, and the horrific finish and surface damage caused by the reaction of the two paints.
My conclusions are that, if sprayed onto clean, shiny plastic, the results are good, although masking over the top could leave marks and show some paint lifting.
As with any metallic paint, surface preparation is important, and small scratches etc will show through the cured paint.
The AK paint, although shown as an enamel on the bottles, has more of the properties, smell and effect of a lacquer, and does not appear to be compatible with enamels.
A small test, after the AK paint had been on the model for a few days, seemed to indicate that enamel brush painted over the AK paint, didn't have any detrimental effect. Whether this will be true if sprayed, I have yet to discover, as the thinners may affect the AK paint.
If masking will be needed (over the AK paint), then use the AK Black Base as a primer first, or, if sprayed onto bare plastic, use damp paper masking, not tape.
Obviously, after this experience, I am wary of this paint range, but I do intend to use it again at some point, when I will either spray onto plastic, or use the Black Base first, and wait at least 24 hours before attempting further coats or masking etc.


Mirage build French 177.JPG
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Mirage build French 192.JPG
 
At present, I have no need to change my practice of using Tamiya acrylics. They result in a superior finish, have low odour, behave beautifully in my airbrushes, bond very well to unprimed plastic, and are readily available locally at a reasonable price. The only disadvantage is that they need blending of stock colours to achieve a correct look for most camouflage colours for WW2 aircraft but, once a ratio is found and recorded, this is a minor inconvenience. Also, their metallic range is extremely limited so I tend to use the expensive but good Alclad series of paints, also locally available but pricey.
 
Yep, I'm the same with my preferred enamels, and for now, I'll stick with my own method of replicating a bare metal finish, using enamels and aluminium finger printing powder.
After seeing the original AK video, I thought I'd give them a try, and I will use them at some point, but not before trying various things and experimenting first !
 

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