BARE METAL MADE EASY!

[Airframes]

Thanks Catch!
Hi Eighthaf. I haven't tried it with acrylics, mainly as I don't use acrylics!!
The polishing part should work, and the paint 'bonding' with the powder on the bare plastic MIGHT work to an extent. However, as the base of acrylic paint is made from a synthetic material, I don't think the effect would be quite the same, as, in effect, one plastic would be meeting another, with the powder possibly 'rejecting' the attraction.
I have used the silver powder, in moderation, to give a metallic shine to other colours, not just metallics, and it does the job well.
Like you, I was a bit nervous of using a powder mix through the airbrush but, so far, using only powder, mixed with Klear (Future), and NO PAINT, it is starting to work. Clean-up takes a bit longer, in order to ensure all metal residue is removed from the needle, but, so far, not bad. Lot more tests to do though!
Thanks for letting me know the supplier of SNJ, I'll make a note of it. I've seen SNJ products advertised on a dealers lists once recently, so, hopefully, if I need more, I can still get it. Don't need the base colour, just the powder, although I've probably got enough to last another ten years!

 

[Eighthaf]

I tried using it on a couple of different media, resin and plastic. They both seemed to accept the paint with the brass powder nicely.

I think the next exercise will be to brush-paint it as a natural-metal finish. Oh boy, another excuse to buy a model? Like I need one.


Eighth

 

[Airframes]

As mentioned in the article, brush painting actually gives a better metal coating, and therefore a better appearance, looking even more like aluminium etc. I'm assuming this is because the powdered metal is being taken-up in the paint, by the action of the brush, rather than being coated. Be sure to follow the method described, and/or experiment a bit though, in order to avoid brush marks.
Good luck, and let me (us) know how you get on.
Terry.

 

[Eighthaf]

'Oh boy, another excuse to buy a model'. And this time I have to see how it scales.

May take a while. Moving, work, life, etc; but curiosity will not let me rest until I've done the deed. Damned curiosity. Why couldn't I just be an alcoholic?


Eighth

 

[Jgonzalez]

Great!! Maybe now I´ll start my P-51!!!

 

[Airframes]

Glad to be of service, and I hope it helps J'. Try to have a practice go first though, rather than go straight to a favourite model.
Terry.

 

[vf-17]

Airframes,
That was a very well written article......I will try out your method in the future on a P-47N I have saved for a BMF.
After I try it out first on some scrap a dozen or so times.
Scott.

 

[Airframes]

Thanks, VF. I did a 1/48th scale P47 using the method, by brush-painting, and it turned out great. As mentioned to others though, if you can, try it out on something 'unimportant' first, just so you get the hang of it.
I'm just finishing a F86 Sabre using this method, with both brush and air brush, and it's looking very nice.
Let me know how you get on, as any feedback, good or bad, is useful. It means that, if neccessary, I can update the article. Thanks again for the compliments.
Terry.

 

[Heinz]

Thanks Terry I'll read it properly on the weekend when I have some time.

Looks a very good layout, I also like your writing style. Language style and tone is perfect for an instructional piece.

Thanks!

 

[Maestro]

Thanks Airframes for the tutorial.

I never saw SNJ stuff at my local hobby shop... One more thing I'll have to order !

Until now the (very few) NMF models I made were made with Testors' 1290 Chrome spray paint. Gave them a rather good finish (well, not as good as on your models). The only downside was that I didn't have the "standard" paint (for use with brushes) to use with... So I have to paint the details (i.e. the canopy frames) in a different colour. I used Tamiya's medium grey so the difference wasn't really evident.

Here is an exemple of my "NMF work" I posted here a while ago. Once again it is in no way as good looking as your models.

 

[Airframes]

Thanks for the compliments Heinz, both for the article and writing style. It's good to know it reads well and is helpful which, of course, was the original aim.
Maestro, your Mustang looks good enough to me, especially with a fairly complex shape to the 'solid' colour over the metallic. I think you'll find that the method described helps a lot by being able to use the same colour and type of metallic, in order to match items such as windscreen frames etc. I used to have the same problems until I 'discovered' the method.BTW, Klear (Future) goes on well and without problems, by brush or airbrush, allowing more variation and a glossier shine. This gives even more range to the possibilities, by using different shades and differing levels of Klear.

 

[Lucky13]

D*mn you Terry! I read this article once more and now I'm even more tempted to buy a 1/48 Tamiya P-51D and try Alclad II...D*mn you I say!

Shocks Away!

 

[Lucky13]

Cough...cough...cough! Ahum!

 

[Airframes]

So, old boy - Alclad or the above?

 

[vikingBerserker]

It's very interesting to attempt to do something first before reading something like this on how to do it.

and now I know.....

Thanks!

 

[Aaron Brooks Wolters]

Airframes, you've got me wanting to build models again. Great material. We use a lot of these techniques and materials in our auto restoration work.

 

[Airframes]

Thanks guys, hope it proves useful.

 

[Lucky13]

Jolly good question old boy! Think that I'll have to try the Alclad II....

 

[prem895]

Where can I get this polishing powder,and have it shipped to me

 

[Airframes]

It used to be from SNJ Products, sold through most model outlets, including Hannant's in the UK, and Squadron, in the USA. But, since writing that article five years ago, I believe the SNJ powder described in the article is now no longer available, though this is not confirmed - it might still be around in the USA.
However, it's basically the same stuff as the aluminium (aluminum in the US !) powder used for finger printing, and should be available from suppliers of forensics material - I found a source in the UK, at a cost per tub a lot less than the SNJ prices !