Looking good Gerry!
Brendan 'Paddy' Finucane Spitfire Mk Vb.
- Thread starter Gerry
- Start date
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Airframes
Benevolens Magister
Great work Gerry. A couple of very minor points; the firewall looks a bit too green for Cockpit Grey Green, but might just be the lighting conditions, and also, note that the black on the engine block and rocker covers etc was semi-matt, so a relevant clear coat will solve that.
looks great
Crimea_River
Marshal
With all Gerry. Nice to see you still pluggin' away at this project;.
- Thread starter
- #106
Gerry
Staff Sergeant
Thanks to all who posted for continuing to look in on this build.
Terry, the green on the firewall came out very green in the photos, which were taken in late afternoon direct sunlight. You can see that there's even a difference in the tones between the before and after shots. I had a look again this morning in overcast conditions and it looks a lot greyer in those conditions. This is not to say I've nailed it exactly. I find it difficult to get a definitive colour ref for the interior green. I have FS 34226 as a match, but only on my computer screen and interior colour photos of Spitfire and Lancaster interiors, which would be my main refs vary greatly depending on the lighting when the photos were taken. So my interior green tends to be an 'average' of the references. As regards the finish on the engine, I had added a lot more plumbing by the time I received your post. If it's possible to hand brush a coat of satincoat on to the blacks, without causing too much disruption, I will do so.
Cheers,
Gerry
Terry, the green on the firewall came out very green in the photos, which were taken in late afternoon direct sunlight. You can see that there's even a difference in the tones between the before and after shots. I had a look again this morning in overcast conditions and it looks a lot greyer in those conditions. This is not to say I've nailed it exactly. I find it difficult to get a definitive colour ref for the interior green. I have FS 34226 as a match, but only on my computer screen and interior colour photos of Spitfire and Lancaster interiors, which would be my main refs vary greatly depending on the lighting when the photos were taken. So my interior green tends to be an 'average' of the references. As regards the finish on the engine, I had added a lot more plumbing by the time I received your post. If it's possible to hand brush a coat of satincoat on to the blacks, without causing too much disruption, I will do so.
Cheers,
Gerry
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Airframes
Benevolens Magister
No problem Gerry, and I understand the problem matching the colour from photos. I'm so used to seeing, and being around that colour over the years, that I mix it automatically, until it 'looks right' !
I don't know if you use enamels, or acrylics, but whichever, if you want the exact shade, the Humbrol No. 78 matt enamel is the correct shade for Cockpit Grey Green, at full size tone. In 1/32nd scale, it can be used virtually straight from the tin, although in all scales I normally add a touch of white, just to lighten it as needed for 'scale effect'.
Even if you don't normally use enamels, a tin of No.78 in your stock can be used as a reference start point.
Hope this helps, and looking forward to the next instalment.
I don't know if you use enamels, or acrylics, but whichever, if you want the exact shade, the Humbrol No. 78 matt enamel is the correct shade for Cockpit Grey Green, at full size tone. In 1/32nd scale, it can be used virtually straight from the tin, although in all scales I normally add a touch of white, just to lighten it as needed for 'scale effect'.
Even if you don't normally use enamels, a tin of No.78 in your stock can be used as a reference start point.
Hope this helps, and looking forward to the next instalment.
- Thread starter
- #108
Gerry
Staff Sergeant
Thanks for that tip Terry. I don't normally use Humbrol, preferring Revell Enamels but a pot of H78 should be a good investment, even as a colour reference. I also managed to get a coat of Satin coat on the engine. It's a little more apparent in the earlier shots but looks good all over in scale size.
I finished wiring and attaching the engine and engine bearers to the firewall, added some weathering, and these are the results below. I think they're self explanatory.
Gerry
Then just to show how it all comes together, I positioned the engine in the airframe. It's not cemented into position yet as I need to be absolutely sure that everything fits before I join the fuselage halves. I'm hoping I might be able to display the engine if the cowling panels can be made removable, but we'll have to see.
I finished wiring and attaching the engine and engine bearers to the firewall, added some weathering, and these are the results below. I think they're self explanatory.
Gerry
Then just to show how it all comes together, I positioned the engine in the airframe. It's not cemented into position yet as I need to be absolutely sure that everything fits before I join the fuselage halves. I'm hoping I might be able to display the engine if the cowling panels can be made removable, but we'll have to see.
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Crimea_River
Marshal
Looks excellent Gerry. It's going to be a cracker methinks.
Airframes
Benevolens Magister
I agree there, definitely the canine accoutrements! The cowling support frames look a bit odd though, more like a Mustang - too many frame sections for a Spit methinks.
Vic Balshaw
Major General
When you see something assembles as stunning as this, you just got to marvel.
amazing Gerry
- Thread starter
- #113
Gerry
Staff Sergeant
Andy, Vic, Karl and Terry thanks for your continuing encouragement.
I agree that the cowling frames are a bit crude. I suspect that the kit maker put them there purely to support the cowling panels and never expected them to be displayed, although why include an engine in that case? I've had a look at the cowling supports in the 1/32 Tamiya Spitfire and they're a beaut - but that kit costs about £70 more than the Hobby Boss so, I suppose, ya gets what ya pays for. Apart from the thickness, which could be improved by sanding/thinning the area that seems most inaccurate is the top bar, running along the centre length of the engine. However if this is covered by the top cowling as I intend it will be, then the remainder, apart from the thickness, doesn't look too inaccurate. We'll see what happens as the build progresses. I would hope not to have to replace it completely.
Gerry
I agree that the cowling frames are a bit crude. I suspect that the kit maker put them there purely to support the cowling panels and never expected them to be displayed, although why include an engine in that case? I've had a look at the cowling supports in the 1/32 Tamiya Spitfire and they're a beaut - but that kit costs about £70 more than the Hobby Boss so, I suppose, ya gets what ya pays for. Apart from the thickness, which could be improved by sanding/thinning the area that seems most inaccurate is the top bar, running along the centre length of the engine. However if this is covered by the top cowling as I intend it will be, then the remainder, apart from the thickness, doesn't look too inaccurate. We'll see what happens as the build progresses. I would hope not to have to replace it completely.
Gerry
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Airframes
Benevolens Magister
I agree Gerry. If the model was displayed with all cowlings removed (on a permanent basis), then the unwanted frames could be removed, but as you say, if they're covered by the cowlings, no problem.
And I agree about the price difference! There is no doubt that the Tamiya kit is superb, but it still puzzles me how Revell can produce excellent kits such as their 32nd scale Ju88 and He111 at very reasonable and affordable prices, when Tamiya (and some others) would charge three times (or more) for a similar offering.
And I agree about the price difference! There is no doubt that the Tamiya kit is superb, but it still puzzles me how Revell can produce excellent kits such as their 32nd scale Ju88 and He111 at very reasonable and affordable prices, when Tamiya (and some others) would charge three times (or more) for a similar offering.
Nicely done Gerry, that looks great man...
- Thread starter
- #117
Gerry
Staff Sergeant
Thank Jerry Wayne. As I said in my last post, I'm now working on the wings. The kit comes with 4 Browning .303 machine guns with ammunition boxes and 2 Hispano 20mm cannons with ammunition drums. The top panels for all of these guns can be shown open, if desired. I intend to pose some open, probably on the port wing. However, I have some questions which have arisen in the course of the wing build which I'm hoping someone can put me straight on. On the 'B' wing were the .303 ammo boxes removable or were they integrated into the wing structure? And on the instruction sheet the landing lights are posed down. Would this be the case normally for parked Spitfires?
Must press on. I would appreciate any help with these issues.
Cheers,
Gerry
Must press on. I would appreciate any help with these issues.
Cheers,
Gerry
Airframes
Benevolens Magister
The mg ammo boxes were like the MkI and MkII, with the filled ammo boxes fitted into place from under the wing. The landing lamp would normally be retracted on the ground.
- Thread starter
- #119
Gerry
Staff Sergeant
Thanks Terry. Noted and acted upon.
- Thread starter
- #120
Gerry
Staff Sergeant
Hi guys, thought I'd better post an update of where I am on this project. I've been pfarffing about on it and changing my mind almost by the hour as to how I want to finally present it - so therefore, a lot of agonising and not a a lot of building! I think I'm now a little clearer in my own mind as to what I want. I've decided to try a simple diorama (my first) of the aircraft being armed prior to a mission. This will show off the otherwise hidden gun bays and engine - seems a pity to waste them. To this end I have invested in an Ultracast standing pilot figure (Adapting him to B. Finucane) and a PJ Productions ground crew armourer, both in 1/32 scale. Here's some shots of where the build is at the moment.
The fuselage has been successfully closed at this point, just needing a little filling in front of the cockpit - but a dusting of primer will confirm if there's anything else required. The ailerons, lower flaps, elevators and rudder are ready to be added at this stage. The main wings couldn't be attached until the wing tops were added. (That has now been done). It's my intention to leave all the cannon/gun bay covers on the port wing open and just the cannon bay the same on the starboard wing, with the port ammo drum waiting to be mounted. I'm trying to engineer the engine cowling (top and sides) so that they can be posed either in an open or closed position, without leaving gaps. Won't know if that's possible until the exhausts are attached.
Here's some modifications I made before the wings were closed. A. Oleo tunnels needed to be added from thin plastic card. B. The landing light bays needed to be filled in as the kit only allows for them to be in the lowered position. Plastic card was used for a base for filler. I. Brass gun barrel fairings added to the cut cannons and detail added with wire to the cannon magazines. 2.Eduard PE .303 ammunition belts added (won't be seen but I hope to show some loaded ammo boxes waiting to be installed). 3.Added some cocking and firing cables. 4. Added some details to the panel cover interiors with brass wire and drilling. 5. The gun panels are a good fit and won't need to be cemented to stay in position. 6. Added a strut that transverses the cannon bays with plastic card and also aileron cables from fuse wire.
I hope to display at least one side of the engine bay open like this. I have thinned the cowling support frame as much as I think I can get away with and painted the outer surface grey, as it appears in some colour photos I've found.
My next challenge is to mask for painting. i'm not sure of the best way to go about this because of all the bays that will eventually be displayed open. All suggestions welcome.
Sláinte,
Gerry
The fuselage has been successfully closed at this point, just needing a little filling in front of the cockpit - but a dusting of primer will confirm if there's anything else required. The ailerons, lower flaps, elevators and rudder are ready to be added at this stage. The main wings couldn't be attached until the wing tops were added. (That has now been done). It's my intention to leave all the cannon/gun bay covers on the port wing open and just the cannon bay the same on the starboard wing, with the port ammo drum waiting to be mounted. I'm trying to engineer the engine cowling (top and sides) so that they can be posed either in an open or closed position, without leaving gaps. Won't know if that's possible until the exhausts are attached.
Here's some modifications I made before the wings were closed. A. Oleo tunnels needed to be added from thin plastic card. B. The landing light bays needed to be filled in as the kit only allows for them to be in the lowered position. Plastic card was used for a base for filler. I. Brass gun barrel fairings added to the cut cannons and detail added with wire to the cannon magazines. 2.Eduard PE .303 ammunition belts added (won't be seen but I hope to show some loaded ammo boxes waiting to be installed). 3.Added some cocking and firing cables. 4. Added some details to the panel cover interiors with brass wire and drilling. 5. The gun panels are a good fit and won't need to be cemented to stay in position. 6. Added a strut that transverses the cannon bays with plastic card and also aileron cables from fuse wire.
I hope to display at least one side of the engine bay open like this. I have thinned the cowling support frame as much as I think I can get away with and painted the outer surface grey, as it appears in some colour photos I've found.
My next challenge is to mask for painting. i'm not sure of the best way to go about this because of all the bays that will eventually be displayed open. All suggestions welcome.
Sláinte,
Gerry
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