Colour help.

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Wildcat

Major
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Apr 11, 2005
South East Queensland
One for you experts! I'm making the Italeri 1:48 P-40 and the underside colour is stated as Navy Blue Grey (flat) with referance number ITA MM II - 2055. Can someone tell me the Humbrol equivalent for this colour? Thanks in advance.
 
Hi,

The number of the paint is one of the Model Master WWII US/United Kingdom set paint.Unfortunately there isn't mentioned the Humbrol equivalent for the paint in the Testors/ModelMaster list.But I have looked at some lists on my HDD and I think that it is a FS35189 colour which was used for Corsair painting as well.It seems that the best equivalent is Tamiya XF-18 US Navy Blue Grey or AeroMaster US BG.However, the Tamiya colour is much blue ( what seems to be the closest tonality of the paint) but AeroMaster paint is much grey.In my opinion both paints can be used because the real paint was very affected by weather conditions.Finally, the Humbrol equivalent for the Tamiya one is number 96 (RAF Blue) or number 79 (Matt Blue Grey) what is an equivalent of US M485 Blue Grey colour.Which one you will decide to go with it's up to you.
 

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Just had a think and to be honest Im getting away using Humbrol 64 light grey for the underside of my RAAF spitfire and judging from my boxart on the P 40 it looks about the same.
 
Thanks for your help guys I ended up going for Humbrol 166 Light aircraft grey the reason being I think it is a close match for Neutral grey which is what colour (along with Olive drab) I believe late war RAAF P40's were delivered in.
Again thanks for your help.
 
Fella's need some more expert advice! How in the sh*t do you mask off a rounded surface such as the nose of a bomb??? My hands aren't steady enough to paint a circle freehand, so any advice would be appreciated!
 
Two ideas that I havent tried but thought of, get a hole punch and punch some circles out of masking tape and follow its line?

Or cut a circle of tape and make a slit into it half way and then make it into a cone and stick then paint along the edge.

However Wayne will come through with something better Im sure.
 
With difficulty!!!

How close to the end do you need to go?

For some small curves I will lay some Tamiya masking tape down on my small glass pane grab a glass and a sharp knife and create a curved THIN strip.

I will hold it down inside the actual position required and then sort of lay it down out to the point I require and 'stretching' it into a tighter curve out to the point I want it to be.
Takes a bit of practice but it can be done.

Reverse the process to create for the tip, tape needs to be thin to stretch and curve it.
 
Guy's I've got another question! When you have fully finished a model are you supposed to coat it with a clear varnish? Does this ensure the longetivity of the decals?? Thanks again for your help
 
It can if its sprayed.

Brushing on a clear coat is not a good move mate, I've tried and it never really worked.

You could also use a decal setting solution while your fitting the decals and give a few coats to seal it. Thats more recommended when your actually fitting the decals as it could take them off when they are dry.

i guess what Im saying is spraying a clear coat is the only way. You can get a gloss clear coat from most Automotive stores for about 5bucks, i used that on my Korean Corsair worked well. You will want a flat varnish though I haven't seen any pressure pack cans for a matt finish unfortunately.

I dunno if I've been much help in the end Andy

*waits for Wayne*
 
I'm here!

The best result is to gloss coat your model after painting then apply the decals on the smooth surface this finish.
I then gloss over the decals again to seal them and this then gives you the same finish overall. Then you can apply your 'flat' coat to the desired sheen.

I have found that if you flat coat over the single gloss and the decal it is most likely that you will get a different flat finish on the decal to the surrounding surface.

The double gloss method ensures that you have a uniform finish overall to apply the final flat coat.

This however is best done with an airbrush.....
 
Hmm, it all sounds too hard! Seriously, should I even worry about a clear coat Wayne, seeing as I don't use an airbrush?

On another question, what is the Humbrol equivalent to Sky blue? I looked on their chart but didn't have much luck. man I suck at this..
 
humbrol have seem to have changed up their range.

I went to get some greens the other day and they were completely different.

Some of humbrols recent pigments are also dropping in quality a bit, annoying when my matt green keeps drying glossy.
 
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