<> **** DONE: 1/32 Sopwith Camel F.1 - WW1 / WW2 over Water.

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Yeah I looked at that option and wimped out . Ive decided to go for the aftermarket seat, even though its pricey. I just cant see how I can produce a decent looking interior with the ruined kit supplied pilot seat (which is hopelessly out of scale anyway), cant see me getting into basket weaving at 1/32 scale. I cant think of a good method of my own that could replace the seat, so it was no option but to go to the expense of the after market seat.

Tonite I started to install the fuel lines, started the scratch build the throttle control unit using modified photoetch parts, some copper tubing and some styrene rod. its not great, because the shape is complex and the size of the item is so small. its not finished yet, and I'm not sure what colours to use ...Also built the auxiliary tank out of a mix of brass tubing and the ends and base out of styrene sheet. The unpainted brass tank looks very cool, but sadly I have to paint it silver.

Ive yet to work out the mounting system for the fuel tanks and how best to simulate the leather retaining straps

Finally I fashion the headboard above the Pilots seat.

No photos yet, but soon
 
Im not sure if I can do this, but I have a PDF copy of the windsock data file. Its just excellent, but Im loathe to post it up without checking first, because of potential copy write infringements. Am I allowed to post up an entire commercial publication. Its a 40 page document, can I post 40 page PDFs?
 
Hi wayne

Still wading through the fuel lines fit, fabrication of the throttle control units and makng the fuel tanks fit the way I want them to. For internals that are mostly scratch built from bits of scrap and raw materials, its coming together pretty well, but there is a lot of trial and error and dry fits as well. I have three throttles now, not just the one and two fuel tanks because the first one was too big, and the second one too roughly finished. Making sure the build is fitting in the available space is harder than I had thought, but I'm getting there. .And I'm learning a lot with each step I take in this build, Oh, and enjoying every bit.
 
Finally I have some progress shots. Sorry for the delay folks.





applied a timber imitation finish to the decking, installed and painted the kickbars. Attached scratch built control cables (not entirely happy with the result). Fitted and painted the control column, colours are too strong but wont matter once everything is fitted



The main fuel tank. The paint flakes you see are peeled off from the aux tank which is meant to sit above the main tank. When I went to dry fit the tank behind the pilot, I found I had miscalculated the dimensions and had to pull the assembly apart to downsize everything , Fits now, after a LOT of fiddling and modification. The hole at the top is the fuel inlet, whilst the coppered over hole at the side was meant to be the fuel outlet for the main tank. Unfortunately the tanks are too big to use them but they are not being removed.

Tank is a mix of a brass piped bent and reshaped, then painted, and styrene ends, unpainted



This is the auxiliary tank which Ive left unpainted in the brass. none of the fuel tank assembly will be visible after fabrication so I might just leave the aux tank as is .

The leather straps are in fact scrap PE metal that Ive cut myself to size. There is some variation in the widths unfortunately



Some further progress with the IP. Ive realigned the switches in the lower left, and reduced the sized of the pulsometer on the far left. its still out of scale but I'm having difficulty making it smaller. its the right height, but its about twice as wide as it should be. The bottom half is 1.5 mm brass tubing, whilst the top is just a drop of woodworking glue. I do have some 0,08mm solid brass rod so I might try and make a replacement for the pulsometer ....if I can remove it. switches right of the Pulsometer are the same tubing, cut and sanded back far as I can take them with 15 amp fuse wire as the actual fuse.

Gadget bottom right is made from modified sprue off cuts with the very last of the 0,05mm aluminium capillary tube that I had on hand. Painted and shaped to simulate the primitive altimeter fitted to the Camel

The brass nameplate is just scrap PE sprue which I fluffed up to be raised off the backing if I can find a decal that has small enough writing, I might apply them to the plate, though the words wont read what they should.

I cant finish the IP yet because I'm waiting for some parts Should arrive in the next week or so
The dash is an odd shape, but it fits the space well and wont look that odd shape once fitted, The sides do get covered, or at least were during the dry fits



This is the pilots backing board....looks rough art this magnification but is okay








this is the Kit supplied pilots seat that I rejected . you can see the crappy injection marks but the seat is also about 30% out of scale. Compare this to the after market ones that geo posted and which Ive purchased a copy and there is just no comparison
 
The one ive ordered is that American Barracuda brand. Biggest problem with American stuff is the postage they charge. I can get stuff from the UK or the EU for about $3.50 + (Item). Will normally arrive in about 10-15 working days. Sometimes things from Eastern Europe do go missing, but you can cover that with insurance (well sometimes). Stuff coming from the US can cost $15-$100 to get shipped from the US, and they take a good 6 weeks to get stuff shipped to the customer. Its hopeless, and don't even think about insurance.

the most reliable suppliers to oz are those based in asia, particularly Singapore and Hong Kong. 3-5 days delay, really good prices and the most dependable of postal services out of the three big continental choices. the only one better is from NZ, but that's probably a local issue.

I forgot to post up two more shots. Before I do, close ups are always cruel, and these are no different.....


This first one is the throttle control unit I made , visible lower right. All the flotsam you see is just sanding dust I forgot to blow off The curvy bit is an unused PE from my Walrus build, cut in half. The straight bits sticking up from there are meant to be the twin throttles . The ginormous, out of scale pipe is meant to be a fuel line, made from either 0.05 mm or 0.8 mm solid styrene rod, painted bronze.

it looks okay at 1;1, but is not a hero of this build. I need to work on this fine detail stuff a lot more I will admit.



up front, my apologies for the out of focus shot. I wanted to post it as its a dry fit of the visible fuel caps ive fabricated and intend to fit after the outer skin is painted. looks alright IMO


I might put the engine together tonite . The kit instructions say the cylinders should be painted black....I agree with that. It says the fuel lines (or whatever they are) and the central crank case housing should be "metallic grey". I don't agree with that. As the following contemporary photo shows....


I think a more accurate rendition would be to paint the cylinders a dark grey, almost black, the areas around the heads maybe a lighter grey, perhaps even baremetal (maybe Tamiya gunmetal) and the centre crank case just bare metal . Not sure at all about the firewall

Anyone have any suggestions?
 

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