<> **** DONE: 1/48 F4U-7 (BuNo. 33710) - WW1 / WW2 over Water.

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My weapon of choice for such things. I think your challenge will be matching the paint.

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Yes, matching the paint will be the tough part.

Maybe mask a rectangular shape where the actuator was and call it a touched up fabric patch in case the match isn't perfect?
 
Hats off and good luck whatever you choose. I wont tell anyone that you left it on that side...Grognards be damned!

If you can rebuild the actuator maybe grinding (dremmel, etc.) would be easier?
 
For sure the dremmel option is the worst one I would follow. The work on the removing of the actuator has to be like precise surgery. What is more, it should be done as one running because of the decal applied. Each more can cause nothing but damages to that.
 
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Thanks for the encouragement gents. I tried Wojteks method will full confidence that it was the best route. Unfortunately the width of the paper prevents getting right to the surface of the tail so I bit the bullet, put on my magnifying visor, took out my hobby knife and started slicing off a micron at a time. The bit in the red is very close to flush, the bit in the white is close to flush. This is where I leave it as I started slipping the nearer I go to the blue in the decal.

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Now for the reparations.....I have since repainted the problem area with the base blue. As others have said....best of luck matching the colours and I agree. My first plan of attack is to use the remaining roundel and cut just enough to cover the damage. Don't work....try matching paint. Don't work....order Berna decals for F4U-7, strip the rudder decals and do over
 
Thanks guys. Sorry Andy, that was future tense George talking. Applied the first of the red and it doesn't look too bad unless you're close up and you know what you're looking for. The red needs to be applied in two parts due to the width of the band and curvature. The white can be applied in one shot
 

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