**** DONE: 1/48 Fairey Swordfish MK.I - Defense of Britain/Atlantic.

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Have done me a fair bit of model rigging Geo, all the biplanes for 56 Sqn that Terry mentioned and from what I can se mate, you're doing a fine job and you have the right attitude, of walking away when getting frustrated. Keep up the good work, you'll be pleased as punch when all done.
 
Thanks all. For the most part, the wings are done. Just need to reattach one that I manage to knock loose putting the final brace on. I'll let that dry and then do a massive amount of touching up, almost all of it on the lower part of the upper wing.

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Now, Tamiya never included any material for the tail section control cables so I'm going to attempt to do this. Stretched sprue or fine wire? And then what's the best way to attach it, bearing in mind there's not a lot to attach to. The line from the elevator also has to run on top of the little nub at the front end of the stab. On the real aircraft it's supposed to run through it but that ain't gonna happen. I'll take any and all advice to be offered.
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Geo
 
Steel wire may be your friend George, if you have any. Consistent thickness and will stay straight, unlike sprue.
 
Can't offer any guidance as this is strictly uncharted territory for me! Brave new world Geo... I'm sure you'll get the tail rigging down!
 
Between my last post and cutting the lawn for what I hope is the last time, I managed to drill 6 .3 holes for the control cables(7 if you include a finger). I do have some fine copper wire as Andy suggests. My plan is to superglue it into the fuselage side and then pull it tightish through the holes in the control horns.



Geo

EDIT: forgot to inquire...s/n is much smaller than standard RAF. Would it be 4 or 6 inch, I'm kinda leaning to 4 inch.

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Hard to tell the size of the s/n Geo, but if you're sure it was smaller than the 'normal' RAF lettering, then I'd say 6 inch - 'standard' RAF size (for most aircraft during WW2 anyway) was 8 inch, and it doesn't appear to be half that size.
 
I would suggest using of the threads taken from tights of black or graphite colour. These are easy attached with polistryrene or CA glues . Also can be stretched giving a nice effect of thin cables without any painting.
 
I would suggest using of the threads taken from tights of black or graphite colour. These are easy attached with polistryrene or CA glues . Also can be stretched giving a nice effect of thin cables without any painting.

Or invisible thread from your local haberdashers store.
 
What, he's stolen (or borrowed!) Jan's tights ?!!!
Geo, the 'invisible' mending thread mentioned by Vic is available in a number of colours, including a 'smoke' shade, rather like a dark steel colour, and I think a metallic grey colour. It's not a 'woven' thread, like cotton, but similar to mono-filament 'Nylon', so no 'hairs', and a 'bobbin' or reel will be enough to rig every model you'd ever like to build, and then some, and can also be used for antenna wire etc too.
It also saves 'getting it in the neck' when Mrs. Geo discovers you've ruined her best tights by pinching a thread from them !!!
 
Hahahahahahahah............anyhoo....thanks for the input gents. I checked a large warehouse fabric store...Fabric Land of all names, if they had "invisble thread and the lady there looked like I had just said "Hail Satan" so I left. Online, I can find all sorts.....in the UK, a small loan from the bank to cover shipping. I have some EZ Line but it's too thick for this so in the end I'm using 2lb test fishing line. On the s/n size, I found my RAF/RN numbers and letter sheet and comparing the size of the red dot on the fuselage roundel in the photo and decal sheet it looks like 4 inch.

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Geo
 
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