<-- **** DONE: 1/48 P-38J Lightning - Twin Engined Aircraft of WWII

[Robert Porter]

The one you bought on eBay has the same part number as the one at Squadron and is for the Monogram kit so you're good

Had not noticed that! Thanks! That makes me feel lots better, although if it had been for a different kit might have used that as a basis for getting the "other" kit!

 

[JKim]

Nice start Robert! Take care on the canopy replacement! They are very thin and prone to damage. I recommend using clay or Silly Putty to reinforce the canopy prior to cutting.

 

[Robert Porter]

Nice start Robert! Take care on the canopy replacement! They are very thin and prone to damage. I recommend using clay or Silly Putty to reinforce the canopy prior to cutting.

Thanks for the tip, never worked with vacuform before. By the way when I originally posted to start the build I specified OOB no accessories, whom should I notify about this change?

 

[JKim]

Here's what I meant about using Silly Putty...

Thanks for the tip, never worked with vacuform before. By the way when I originally posted to start the build I specified OOB no accessories, whom should I notify about this change?

You can edit your initial post and modify the section for Accessories.

 

[Airframes]

No need to alter the spec to change from OOB Robert.
When you come to cut the canopy from the moulding, do not try to cut all the way through. Instead, ensure you have a new blade in the scalpel, and gently score, repeatedly, around the cut lines, until the canopy comes free. The edges can then be very lightly sanded.
Attach the canopy with PVA, or a clear canopy glue, for example, Humbrol Clear Fix.
An easy way to paint the frames, rather than mask the relatively flexible part, is to lightly lay down some clear parcel tape (3M Scotch tape) onto a piece of glass, Paint the interior colour on to this and, when dry, paint over this with the exterior color.
Cut the tape into strips the required width, and then attach these to the frame lines, burnishing them downs o that they stick firmly.
Alternatively, mask the canopy and paint the frames before cutting it from the mould form.

 

[Robert Porter]

No need to alter the spec to change from OOB Robert.
When you come to cut the canopy from the moulding, do not try to cut all the way through. Instead, ensure you have a new blade in the scalpel, and gently score, repeatedly, around the cut lines, until the canopy comes free. The edges can then be very lightly sanded.
Attach the canopy with PVA, or a clear canopy glue, for example, Humbrol Clear Fix.
An easy way to paint the frames, rather than mask the relatively flexible part, is to lightly lay down some clear parcel tape (3M Scotch tape) onto a piece of glass, Paint the interior colour on to this and, when dry, paint over this with the exterior color.
Cut the tape into strips the required width, and then attach these to the frame lines, burnishing them downs o that they stick firmly.
Alternatively, mask the canopy and paint the frames before cutting it from the mould form.

Excellent info! Thank you I will do!

 

[Robert Porter]

Here's what I meant about using Silly Putty...

You can edit your initial post and modify the section for Accessories.

Wow! They are thin! Thanks, I am planning on using Blue Tack since I have that rather than silly putty unless there is a reason not to do so?

 

[Robert Porter]

Cockpit complete! One little bit of overspray to remove near the headrest.

 

[Crimea_River]

Looks good Robert. I'd actually say that Blue Tack is probably better as it's stiffer. Good luck with the vac form stuff as it's tricky to cut. I'd also recommend cutting well away from the intended cut line at first to see how it goes. It's always easier to trim further that to replace material that was not supposed to be cut.

 

[Robert Porter]

Looks good Robert. I'd actually say that Blue Tack is probably better as it's stiffer. Good luck with the vac form stuff as it's tricky to cut. I'd also recommend cutting well away from the intended cut line at first to see how it goes. It's always easier to trim further that to replace material that was not supposed to be cut.

Thanks! And truer advise has never been given, its a dickens to build up what has been cut away but I can always sand a little more!

 

[JKim]

Very nice start on the cockpit! The radio looks like it has some nice details that could be brought out with some painting. And yes, Blu Tack is probably a better choice than Silly Putty.

 

[Wayne Little]

Doin' good there Robert, all very good advice especially starting a little bit away from your canopy edge when cutting and then working toward the final point.

 

[Wurger]

Looking good.

 

[rochie]

That's a great start Robert

 

[Robert Porter]

Added some detailing to the radio and started on upper and lower wings by attaching some components prior to initial paint of interior green.

 

[fubar57]

Looking good

 

[Airframes]

Coming along nicely Robert.
One point though - shouldn't the radio be horizontal, level with the line of the cockpit sill ?

 

[Crimea_River]

I'd say so. Also, I don't know how you feel about dry brushing but I like it as a technique to bring out details and make the parts look a little worn. Dab a soft brush in a bit of silver and stipple the brush on a piece of paper until the silver doesn't show. Then lightly swish the brush over your black part.

Here's my radio set up for an early P-38 with the dry brushing done.

 

[Robert Porter]

Coming along nicely Robert.
One point though - shouldn't the radio be horizontal, level with the line of the cockpit sill ?

I thought so as well but the illustrations in the instructions clearly show it at an angle. Seems odd to me as well.

I am building option C, so part 91 is not used.

 

[fubar57]

Instructions seem odd. This is what the radio gear looks like, as in Andy's photo...

...I think it's supposed to lay flat on those two posts