**** DONE: 1/72 Sea Fury FB11 RAN 21 CAG - Your Favorite Aircraft of All Time GB (1 Viewer)

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Progress report for tonite.

Reshaped the cockpit well and repositioned the instrument panel. I had to shave off yet more of the inner fuselage and the instrument panel as well, and even now its not quite right, but i dare not mess about with this part any longer

I joined the two halves and have started some bogging of the joint. it looks pretty horrible at the moment, but I am actually reasonably happy with the joints. The liquid filler is a bit messy to use, but it fills crack and joints very easily. I used it in the wessex I recently built and it wasnt visible in that buld after sanding and painting

Im considering putting very small red and green beads into the outer wings, as nav lights. i saw Vic do that a couple of years agao on his Tornado and it looked marvellous. Id have to source some coloured beads of the right size however.....

Anyway, and few more shots
 

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Not too bad at all. Just a tip for future projects. If a putty is a bit messy to use, a surface of seams of fuselage halves (e.g) can be limited by strips of masking tape stuck along a seam from left and right side leaving a narrow area ( 2-3mm ) of the seam for filling with a putty. It usually helps with keeping of a model surface clean all around joints.
 
I knew about that technique, but thought I could control the green stuff (thats its name) not worry. Now I have a bit of a mess. I hope i can clean it up without too much damage to the panel lines
 
Looking good Michael. If you can't get any coloured beads, then shavings from transparent, coloured toothbrush handles can be used, or, clear sprue, drilled, painted in the drilled hole, superglued in place and filed and sanded to shape. However, in this small scale, a tiny notch can be cut, painted the appropriate colour and, when dry, apply a blob of Micro Kristal Klear or PVA.
 
I like the idea of the clear sprue. i have some bits I could use with rounded ends that should make fabrication a bit easier. are ther any techniques to avoid scratching too much?
 
are ther any techniques to avoid scratching too much?


Depending on the light shapes you can apply there some of silver paint at these areas and then pinting them with a mix of a thick gloss varnish and red/green paint of correct transparency.
 
If filing and sanding clear sprue, then polishing can be done by progressively finer grits. Follow this by polishing with toothpaste or, better still 'T-Cut' (or similar car body colour restorer) or metal polish. Do this before painting the model, then mask the finished lamps until painting is complete.
 
Ive had a chance to research the light shapes and sizes for the Fury. They are small cornice style lights that illuminate and are visible from both the upper and lower sides of the wing. The wingtips where these lights are located are aboiut 1.5mm thick at their greatest. They are basically triangular, measuringing 2mm lengthwise x 1.5mm width.

Thats not a lot to work with there. in my opinion I am proabably better off given my skillset at leaving the light assembly out for this build, and attempting something like that with a bit more experience under my belt. I risk damaging the wing indeed, the whole model for not much gain.

I have some red paint that is translucent and fishes with a high degree of sheen. I am going to try and get at least some of the effect I want by using this high lustre paint. i will have to source out green paint that is similar. This wont be as spectacular as I had wanted, but its achievable. sometimes its necessary to be realistic about the difficulty of the task and ones own abilities....

I am thinking of the final assembly stage. Contrary to accepted practice which says put it all together, then paint it as a single unit, I am considering fitting all the parts, but not fixing them just yet. i can see that there are a number of discreet subassemblies that are better constructed and painted away from the main chassis and then fitted later. for example, ther is the propellor and spinner sub-assembly. If I were to fit the spinner and prop to the main chassis unpainted, I would not be able to paint all the prop and could not pait the propeller blades either. However, If I dry fit everything, then paint the pro[p then the spinner, and thjen attach to the engine cowling area (which also woud be pre-painted, my paint job will, overall be more complete and less likely to have overspray and other imperfections....

Same rules apply to the undercart area...paint the gear the wheels and then attach to the main airframe Avoids messing up the wheel housing .

The alternative is to hand paint these additions , I would prefer psrayed finishes if possible.....
 
In most cases Michael the modeller will assemble the main aircraft airframe, body, tail and wings then do the painting. Items such as the undercarriage legs, doors, wheels and the canopy, propeller, propeller nose cone, aerials and such would all be painted separately and attached once the main aircraft body has been painted and decaled. It is much easier to do it this way and it limits the number of bits protruding from the main body that can so easily be snapped off while trying to sort other thing out.

As for the lighting, it's nice to see some polished coloured lenses on the end of the wings and at the tail but for the moment I would recommend that you first try doing something like polishing on a spare piece of plastic before venturing to a model. As Terry has also said, the same effect can also be made by drilling a small hole in the back of the clear plastic, adding a dab of coloured paint and then when the piece is secure on the wing, then polish it to shape. A good cheap polishing implement is a 4 grade nail polishing stick available from any pharmacy.
 
well I hsve installed "nav lights into the wingtips. I had a change of heart and decided to have a go, using bits of advice that I had received in this place, plus some of my own ideas.

Ive always planned to build this model with an open cocpkit, ie with the pilot hatch removed. I did that, turned out okay, but is not yet fitted. as I was cutting up the canopy, I noticed the clear hood material in this kit is very thin and quite malleable 9for a clear part. I could bend this stuff to a degree. it was also curved and very thin . Being thin meant it could fit into the wing extemieties where these fabricated lights would have to go.

I built a total of four lenses, two red and two green, of these two colours one lense for the top wing surfaces, and one for the bottom. I then cut out the light sockets from the wings and have attached a lense to each recess. The top and bottom lenses of each colour will meet when I seal up the wing.

I painted each of these lenses with either red or green translucent paint....when that was dry I spot welded the lenses into position .


The model is currently drying. Will post pics tomorrow. ZThe lenses arent too bad. Wurgers fake nav lights do give the impression of twinlking.


Im pretty happy I made an attempt at these nav light. Learnt a lot about the material doing it.
 
These are the images of the mods done last night

I am in the fortunate position of either accepting these mods or using some spares of this kit that I have. When I purchased the kit, the first copy was missing a full parts sheet. I was allowed to keep the partial kit, and have a second pair of wings so I have the option of either accepting these changes or replacing the modified wings
 

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Tonite I finished the prepration to the fuselage and applied the darker colour to the upper parts. i also assembled and painted the propellor subassembly, and painted the upper halves of the wing. After my work from last night I have decided to go with just using Wurgers method on the wingtips for the light efect....i will get much the same result without having to hack into the wings as i did.

Scratch building, even minor stuff is quite a challenge.....

Photos tommorrow. Too late to do that right now
 

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