**** DONE: GB-36 1/32 Bf109G-10 Erla - Axis Manufactured Aircraft of WWII

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Riveting looks great John, it really adds to the build. Do you only rivet in 1/32, or can you do it down to 1/48?

Thanks! Yes, you can do rivet in 1/48 and I think it looks good there too. Here is my 1/48 scale Hasegawa Bf109K-4 that I finished earlier this year.

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Thanks for the comments guys! The Erla build goes on. The Reaver spinner would have you trap the kit prop shaft between the fuselage halves. The fit was not positive at all and I need to have the spinner separate when I deal with the spiral. So instead, I glued a piece of 5/16" round rod into the prop spinner. Now the prop is a tight friction fit that I can attach/detach at will.

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The fuselage halves have been glued together and the cockpit is secured into place. I am leary about committing glue to the AMUR Reaver cowling pieces just yet so I am still dry-fitting the components and also working on other stuff while I work up the courage.

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I want to hollow out the ammo ejection chutes on the underside of the fuselage. I am a squared section of plastic sheet to serve as a form for the new chutes.

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The chutes are made of brass sheet.

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The wing bottom parts that block off the ejector chutes have been marked. Since this area of the wing houses the landing gear mounts, I have to be careful about removing too much plastic.

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I used a drill to make a hole and then roughly squared it out to let the ejector chutes pass through.

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The top wing joint has been finished on both wings. It took a couple of passes with different fillers and a scriber.

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After painting the metal landing gear legs, I got the bright idea of gluing a piece of lead wire over the molded brake line to help make it stand out more. I scraped off the metal brake line as much as I could and then superglued an appropriately lengthed lead wire.

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I used the same idea for the brake line on the gear cover.

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A couple of straps made from Tamiya tape were put over the new brake line.

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Here is a picture of the finished gear legs. Of course, the new brake lines are hidden from view. I'm not sure I'm happy with this... I'll take a look at it again.

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Hmm, I can see your concern John - the moulded brake lines are still quite obvious under your lead wire ones. Although the close up photo probably makes it look worse than it is and I also suspect it will look better after painting and weathering.
 
I didn't quite like the gear legs enough to keep them as is, Kirby. The remnants of the molded brake lines, even though painting helped mask them, bothered me.

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When something bothers me, I am compelled to wipe it clean and start again! This time, I ground down the molded brake lines with Dremel. And instead of Tamiya tape, I made the straps out of thin brass sheeting superglued into place so that it could handle the wash treatment later on.

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Here's a look a the gear legs with the new brake lines in place. A much cleaner look.

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I've primed the legs and have painted the oleos Alclad Chrome. I'll let this dry for a good 24 hours before masking and painting.

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Doing some bits and ends now... the tall tail fin has been glued into place and the glue seam eradicated with putty and careful sanding. The rudder has not yet been glued on.

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I damaged the wafer thin gun barrel on the AMUR Reaver spinner.

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I sawed it off and replaced with a piece of plastic rod.

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The fuselage cannon were taken from the kit and glued into place. Of course, the ends have been carefully hollowed out.

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The tires were painted a custom mix of grey/black/brown while the wheels were painted black. Everything was given a brown pastel wash to dirty things up. I will still perform some more weathering on the tires.

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The tail wheel and long strut has been painted and weathered as well.

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Finally, I've glued into place the sidewalls for the wheel wells. I like how Revell has completely blocked off the wheel wells with detailed walls. I am not going to attempt to replicate any canvas covering here but I might add some wiring to add some visual interest.

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I would normally loop the brake line at the wheel on my 109's. However the Eduard resin landing gear covers have the brake line molded without a loop. I thought it would be too difficult to remove the molded brake line without damaging the detail on the inside of the covers so I simply covered them with a piece of lead wire.
 
Hey guys. Illness, work and a broken TV have conspired to keep me from doing much modeling this week. I have not worked up enough nerve to attach the Reaver cowling pieces. I'm close but there are lots of other things to keep me busy. I've added some wiring to the wheel well area.

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The screens for the wing radiators have been painted. The mesh is a too fine for a wash or dry-brushing so I just painted the mesh area black and left the framing in RLM 02.

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I chosen to depict the wheel wells in unfinished metal instead of RLM 02. This was a mixture of Alclad Dark Aluminum and Aluminum.

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The fit of the fuselage halves is excellent with all of the panel lines lining up nicely. After sanding, I will scribe a line down the glue joint and rivet both sides as depicted in photos earlier in this post by others.

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