I like what your doing there Michael keep up the good work.
**** DONE: GB-37 1/72 Westand Sea King - Helicopters / Military a/c of BoB 1940
- Thread starter parsifal
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- #62
parsifal
Colonel
Was busy most of the weekend, and only got the chance to spend a total of about 2hrs on the thing. Its cleaned up pretty well actually. Also managed to fit the main hatch, and it is movable which is a bonus. The tail assembly is together and PE additions attached. Used the suggested method mentioned by Vic and it works better. Though I didn't use a scalpel except at the very end of the process. most of the material under the tail mounted PE grates was removed using an engraving tool that I have. its a nifty little thing, variable speed so I can make it very controllable. I found I could make far more accurate depressions in the plastic using that gizmo than I could with the scalpel, though the scalpel was handy for finishing off.
Ive put together the main undercarriage assemblies but not yet attached them. Normally I would not attach the LG, but in this case I might, as it will be a highly visible element of the model. I will keep off the black coloured winch. I will also keep off (and paint separately) the box thingy that attaches to the turbine inlets. Its a different colour to the main body (at least the filter parts are).
Biggest issue to resolve at this point is the fitting of the clear canopy. Like all the other major add ons to the main body of the fuselage, there are very significant fit issue. There will be a lot of filler needed around the seam and given that one side is a clear part, this will be a significant challenge to get right without damaging the part.
Ive put together the main undercarriage assemblies but not yet attached them. Normally I would not attach the LG, but in this case I might, as it will be a highly visible element of the model. I will keep off the black coloured winch. I will also keep off (and paint separately) the box thingy that attaches to the turbine inlets. Its a different colour to the main body (at least the filter parts are).
Biggest issue to resolve at this point is the fitting of the clear canopy. Like all the other major add ons to the main body of the fuselage, there are very significant fit issue. There will be a lot of filler needed around the seam and given that one side is a clear part, this will be a significant challenge to get right without damaging the part.
Vic Balshaw
Major General
Good on you Michael. I also have the Dremel which is also very handy for gouging out plastic and I tend to go real slow when using it otherwise the plastic gets hot and tends to stick to the bit. I also recollect having canopy fit issues with quite a bit of filler and delicate filing involved, this was more problematic with the side windows.
Nicely done so far!
T Bolt
Colonel
Looking good Michael
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- #66
parsifal
Colonel
Ive been absent for some days, moving my older sons house . I did manage to get quite a bit done over the weekend with the cockpit glazing well on the way to being sorted, the undercarriage modified to take the PE LG supports, some additional grates added to the engine and nose areas as well as the tail assembly. ive started the masking process
as previously stated, i have the main hatch fitted and am happy that it can be slid open and shut. this will be helpful during painting
These are some photos that I have taken over the last week or so....
So this was where I was up to last week. I have a very thick shim to try and push the clear glazing as far forward as possible.
So, here I have the clear glazing fitted along with the shim .It only dry fitted in this shot and it is clear that I still have a lot of work to do
Ive started to apply filler around the joint . It still is a mess .
A lot of sanding, puttying and filling later, and finally I am getting there. ive also progressed masking and the main hatch is fitted. Ive also carried a further excavation near the turbines, for yet more PE grates
The additional engine inspection grate fitted as well as the a/c tie down rings.
Further grates fitted to the turbine housing as well as a grate below the screen
Grate fitted to the tail assembly (underside. I had some difficulty with this fit.
PE fairings fitted to the U/C after the plastic moulded parts had been cut away.
Tail assembly grates done
as previously stated, i have the main hatch fitted and am happy that it can be slid open and shut. this will be helpful during painting
These are some photos that I have taken over the last week or so....
So this was where I was up to last week. I have a very thick shim to try and push the clear glazing as far forward as possible.
So, here I have the clear glazing fitted along with the shim .It only dry fitted in this shot and it is clear that I still have a lot of work to do
Ive started to apply filler around the joint . It still is a mess .
A lot of sanding, puttying and filling later, and finally I am getting there. ive also progressed masking and the main hatch is fitted. Ive also carried a further excavation near the turbines, for yet more PE grates
The additional engine inspection grate fitted as well as the a/c tie down rings.
Further grates fitted to the turbine housing as well as a grate below the screen
Grate fitted to the tail assembly (underside. I had some difficulty with this fit.
PE fairings fitted to the U/C after the plastic moulded parts had been cut away.
Tail assembly grates done
Airframes
Benevolens Magister
Looks like you've got a lot of work done, and progressing very well Michael - good stuff.
Might be an idea to sand the seams off the wheels before fitting to the fuselage. Also, double check the masking over the side windows - look like there may be some gaps, but good work overall.
And you must be tired after moving your son's house - houses are heavy ! (I've got me coat !).
Might be an idea to sand the seams off the wheels before fitting to the fuselage. Also, double check the masking over the side windows - look like there may be some gaps, but good work overall.
And you must be tired after moving your son's house - houses are heavy ! (I've got me coat !).
Good work so far!
Crimea_River
Marshal
Good advice from Terry, marred yet again by a poor attempt at humour. 
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- #71
parsifal
Colonel
I'm prepared to live with the awful joke if he keeps giving such good advice......
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- #72
parsifal
Colonel
I'm going to have to think and do a bit more about the canopy masking. It isn't quite right as terry points out . I think the main problem is ensuring that the framing lies are straight and even, particularly that line that separates the vertical glazing from the horizontal . Ive got a "think outside the box" solution which I will test before applying. I have difficulty at this scale getting the masking components to be all straight and parallel to each other. I was thinking of using waterproof paper to cover those clear vertical 9retaining the masking underneath for the moment, and thereby creating an even straight edge from which to work from. I do see the problem Terry is pointing out, but achieving a workable solution is not so easy I find.
Iforgot to sand back the LG wheels, which creates unnecessary difficulty, but is not an insurmountable problem Focus has to be solving this masking issue which, pure and simple is a skill issue. .
Iforgot to sand back the LG wheels, which creates unnecessary difficulty, but is not an insurmountable problem Focus has to be solving this masking issue which, pure and simple is a skill issue. .
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #73
parsifal
Colonel
And .....I SHOULD CLEAN UP MY WORK SPACE. Trouble is I have parts sorted and ready and might lose them if I do it now half way through the build....
Doin' good Michael...
- Thread starter
- #75
parsifal
Colonel
thanks wayne, and all. Tonite I only had about an hour to work on the model. its a workday tomorrow and things are hectic. ive sanded the wheels and retouched the masking. both elements look a lot better. no need for an exotic "fix just yet. will post progress shots in the next day or so.....
turbo
Staff Sergeant
Good progress Michael. If you clean up your workspace you won't know where anything is 
fubar57
General
Agree with all. I just bought a plastic 3 section bowl similar to this to hold all the small bits until assembly.
Airframes
Benevolens Magister
I find the easiest and most accurate way to mask canopy framing and windows, is to use narrow strips for the edges, and then 'fill in' with larger pieces of tape.
Some will shudder at the thought, but I cut the strips to approximate length, place them in position accurately aligned against the edges of the frames, and then, if there is an overlap outside of the glazed area, very carefully trim off the excess tape with a new scalpel blade.
The tape is cut by first laying a length on the cutting mat (ensuring the mat is clean and dust free), and then cutting against a steel rule. I seem to have developed the 'knack' of getting the required length almost exact every time, which makes life easier, but any trimming is easy to do, and no damage should occur if the new blade is used lightly and precisely.
To place the tape, the extreme edge is lightly tacked onto the flat of the scalpel blade, positioned, and then one end attached. The tape is then released from the blade, adjusted as required, and lightly pressed into place. Once accurately positioned, it is then burnished down with the blunt end of a paint brush or pair of tweezers, ensuring a good, tight seal at the 'paint' edge.
It takes a little longer doing it this way, but it is much more accurate than trying to mask using one piece of tape.
That said, if the area is, for example, a rectangular cabin window, then the entire window is masked with a suitably sized piece of tape, and then trimmed around the edge, between the 'glass' and the recess in the plastic, with the edges again burnished down.
To make life easier when removing moulding seams, this is best done as sub-assemblies. For example, where wheels need to be assembled from two halves, assemble first, let set, and then trim and / or sand any seam or joint, before proceeding to the main assembly stage.
Similarly with 'rod' type parts, such as undercarriage legs, which invariably have a mould seam or flash along the length of the part - these can be shaved, scraped or sanded off before assembly and painting, with all of this type of work being done as preparation before any assembly commences.
Some will shudder at the thought, but I cut the strips to approximate length, place them in position accurately aligned against the edges of the frames, and then, if there is an overlap outside of the glazed area, very carefully trim off the excess tape with a new scalpel blade.
The tape is cut by first laying a length on the cutting mat (ensuring the mat is clean and dust free), and then cutting against a steel rule. I seem to have developed the 'knack' of getting the required length almost exact every time, which makes life easier, but any trimming is easy to do, and no damage should occur if the new blade is used lightly and precisely.
To place the tape, the extreme edge is lightly tacked onto the flat of the scalpel blade, positioned, and then one end attached. The tape is then released from the blade, adjusted as required, and lightly pressed into place. Once accurately positioned, it is then burnished down with the blunt end of a paint brush or pair of tweezers, ensuring a good, tight seal at the 'paint' edge.
It takes a little longer doing it this way, but it is much more accurate than trying to mask using one piece of tape.
That said, if the area is, for example, a rectangular cabin window, then the entire window is masked with a suitably sized piece of tape, and then trimmed around the edge, between the 'glass' and the recess in the plastic, with the edges again burnished down.
To make life easier when removing moulding seams, this is best done as sub-assemblies. For example, where wheels need to be assembled from two halves, assemble first, let set, and then trim and / or sand any seam or joint, before proceeding to the main assembly stage.
Similarly with 'rod' type parts, such as undercarriage legs, which invariably have a mould seam or flash along the length of the part - these can be shaved, scraped or sanded off before assembly and painting, with all of this type of work being done as preparation before any assembly commences.
fubar57
General
With Terry about masking. I've tried to cut along the frame after the tape has been laid on and occasionally slipped while trying to make a longish cut. It might be a bit easier now that I have the magnifying visor but I'm not going to risk it
turbo
Staff Sergeant
Or buy a die cut mask set and save yourself a lot of time and pain! I...hate...masking
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