**** DONE: GB-45 1/48 Bf 109G-6 (1) - BoB/Foreign Service

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It does look like it's gone on too thick as you shouldn't get droplets at the edges like that. Thinning will give a better finish and your paints will last longer. That said, I'm noticing you used ModelAir which is supposedly already thinned. I think your AB needs a good clean.
 
And that's what the issue is-/was. I'm having a nozzle cleaning issue. I think I've fixed it but haven't had time to check it out.
 
I've been getting some eduard cockpit stuff done in there. Everytime I look at it I say "I'm not going to even try that".
, and then I go and get involved in it anyway.

I followed the instruction on the throttle quadrant and it turned out to be backwards so I had to use fingernail polish to disassemble and fold it all in reverse and then, yes I broke off a piece and got too much super glue gel on it. Had to do more fingernail polish and still have some to clean off.

 
Well I may have it a minor roadblock, as this was a second hand kit there are sprues from the reminets of at least two kits. It looked like it was good but I seem to be missing one part for the cockpit, Part D30 seems to be somewhere other than the local area. I may need to acquire an aftermarket cockpit for this kit, or I have the two Eduard kits and could change to the G-6 early for this build. I can afford to go with the kit change more then buying the aftermarket cockpit or if the part is available out there maybe get the dimensions and scratch build it.

 
Buying of the aftermarked cockpit because of the lacking part is a kind of exaggeration, Don. The missing piece is a back cover of the cannon. If you have the Eduard kit you may copy the part H45. Either you may copy the entire part or it rear with the lacking piece. Certainly you may do that using the resin and some of plasticine for making the mould. Also it can be used a piece of plastic and shaped it with sandpaper. The fitting of it to the cockpit is a piece of cake.

 
I figured if I knew what it was and looked like I could do it. You'll answered the question and I can run from there. I just didn't know what it was or looked like. I can either scratch build or maybe resin the part now I have all this info.
Thanks again.
 
Better to scratch-build, and easier. With the Covid-19 thing, sending a part could take some time due to transport, especially if it went by air. many airlines have stopped or vastly restricted service.
As mentioned, this is the casing over the cannon breech and, once in place, only the rear end can be clearly seen, and hardly seen at all if the canopy is closed. easily built with plastic card, with the edges sanded round.
 
Thanks all but once I had something to work with it was very easily done. I took Evergreen 196 .188 x 188 block and trimmed it to what my micron called for. I used the Eduard part to measure with. as I only needed the block and not the breach as that is molded on the Hasegawa floor.



 
Thanks all for inputs, great all. I was able to pretty much move along after the breach block issue and the cockpit is put together. I used some of the PE set but won't use all. The kit rudder pedals worked for me and I hate folding and bending the PE rudder pedals just to watch them fly off into carpetland. One thing that is very predominant in the 109G-6 is the fuel line on the right side, being YELLOW it stands out like a "sore thumb". Eduard reproduce this in their kit on the clear tree as there is a clear section for the fuel filter in the line. Ask me if I'm the pilot, I'm not liking this nifty yellow line running by my face especially when someone is shooting at me, but, hey, who am I to question the designers? Well any way I'm using some lead wire to try to reproduce this epic fuel line. I't doesn't seem to like the paint but I figure it will after a couple of coats.

Fuselage went together as a Hasegawa should, sweet!


Have to do some minor wear marks, silver in the rudder pedals etc...


Using the Eduard part as a guide (red) I bent my lead wire (yellow).


Using Testors Insignia Yellow enamel, Yes I know there is a clear section towards the front with black rubber on either side. Not real sure how I'll do the clear, though I just may paint that the cockpit RLM66, I need to get the yellow down first.
 
Use the kit part Don. Carefully remove it with a razor saw. I used Vallejo Gold Yellow(RLM04)




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As the instructions say, "Add it last". I had to enlarge the holes slightly. Test fit the fuselage halves as the part impinged on the instrument panel slightly
 
Don, you can cut the lead wire where the clear part goes and CA glue a length of clear stretched sprue. Or just scratch off the paint and leave it silver.
 
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