GB-47 1/48 Hawker Typhoon - WW2 D-Day and After – Western Front

Ad: This forum contains affiliate links to products on Amazon and eBay. More information in Terms and rules

Thanks Dale. For the instrument faces I use a needle. For slightly larger spots I use disposal mascara brushes which you can buy on Amazon.
 
Right, out with the surgical instruments and wheel the patient into the O.R. Before gluing the fuselage halves together, I wanted to deal with the larger Tempest-style tail planes needed for this particular aircraft. For these, I raided my other Hasegawa Tiffie kit, the "Sharktooth"offering, which I paid for with my left kidney. This kit offers the larger tail planes plus the 4 blade prop that I'll also need. Here's one of the larger resin tail planes next to the fuselage that will need to be modified:

20092001.jpg


The instructions ask you to carve away the moulded fairing on the fuselage until it is flush with the flat surfaces. For that, I used my chisel blade.

20092002.jpg


The opening, once completed, looks like this:

20092003.jpg


A dry fit shows that it's a pretty close fit and with a bit of tweaking this should make for a reasonable alteration.

20092004.jpg


Off to the books to figure out how the rudder works with that extended fairing. Thanks for watching.
 
As memo serves the rudder worked in the same way the one designed for the Typhoon initially. I mean there were two pushrods for the rudder moving hidden under the fairing and seen at the back. Basicly the fairing wasn't too much extended towards its back. Most of the fairing was longer at the front area because just the Tempest tail stabilizers were of longer chord while elevators were almost of the same one for both planes.

typhoon-4b-late-jpg.jpg

typhoon-early-late-jpg.jpg

pic source: Typhoon with Tempest tailplane
 
And two shots of the Tempest with the back of the fairing seen.

2804cb20dd84bc5adbef1cb61b65e416.jpg


large_000000.jpg

The pic source: the net.

So the fairing of the part you used, seems to be a little bit too extended. You may need to reshape it at the area of the rudder.
 
Thanks guys.

I stuck the fuselage together, trusting Geo's discovery that the radiator can be slid in after the fact. I also found out that the cockpit can be wedged in from the bottom and so left it out too so that I can get clear access to the seams. As you can see, there's styrene filler needed to close the gap left by the side panels which aren't wide enough, a commonly found issue with this kit. I elected to get rid of the moulded in canopy track detail and will add this back later.

20092201.jpg
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back