GB-47 1/48 Hawker Typhoon - WW2 D-Day and After – Western Front
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- #262
Crimea_River
Marshal
Still had a bit of salt deposits on the model which I cleaned up today before taking the following finished pics. I'm sorry for the quality - I'm not sure what's going on with my SLR as the focus seems to be getting worse over time.
And here's the model vs the real thing:
Thanks to everyone who was patient enough to follow along and for the kind comments and support.
And here's the model vs the real thing:
Thanks to everyone who was patient enough to follow along and for the kind comments and support.
Nicely Done Andy...
Snautzer01
Honourably banned
- 42,945
- Mar 26, 2007
A beauty and a pleasure following the build.
Really nicely done Andy
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- #267
Crimea_River
Marshal
Thanks everyone. Just notice a small mess up: location of "Pulverizer II" decal in the last comparison photo. Also, I forgot to replicate that odd colouration discussed on post #169 - might come back and do that.
New learnings from this build:
- variations in Typhoon radiator layouts
- Hasegawa sidewall inserts create gap on top seam
- Hasegawa large resin tailplane inserts very unforgiving. Consider Ultracast upgrades instead for large tailplane.
- Landing light faired over on starboard side of many (most?) later Tiffies.
- Recommend installing chin scoop fairing after fuselage glued together to allow proper alignment and seam filling. This might mean removal of locating pin on the radiator.
- 1000lb bomb racks further outboard than standard 500lb bomb rack.
- Apparent slight difference in shape of heavier bomb rack not documented.
- Variations in gun sight styles and mounting.
- salt weathering technique used successfully for the first time. Lots of rinsing needed!
New learnings from this build:
- variations in Typhoon radiator layouts
- Hasegawa sidewall inserts create gap on top seam
- Hasegawa large resin tailplane inserts very unforgiving. Consider Ultracast upgrades instead for large tailplane.
- Landing light faired over on starboard side of many (most?) later Tiffies.
- Recommend installing chin scoop fairing after fuselage glued together to allow proper alignment and seam filling. This might mean removal of locating pin on the radiator.
- 1000lb bomb racks further outboard than standard 500lb bomb rack.
- Apparent slight difference in shape of heavier bomb rack not documented.
- Variations in gun sight styles and mounting.
- salt weathering technique used successfully for the first time. Lots of rinsing needed!
Lovely work Andy!
Airframes
Benevolens Magister
Love it - great job Andy !
Re the focus problem - it may be that the sensor needs to be cleaned (other than any auto-clean function on the camera). Also, it may be worth removing the lens and cleaning the contacts on the lens and body. A rub over with a soft cloth should do the job. ( refer to the manual for sensor cleaning.). The front element of the lens may also require a light clean, again with an "approved" cleaning cloth - virtually invisible surface patina (even with a filter in place), will cause a degree of soft focus.
Note also that the sensor and auto-focus can sometimes be "fooled" by certain combinations of background and subject colours and lighting type and angles. Try using manual focus, with a range of shutter speeds / aperture settings, and see if this has any effect.
If this does not improve things, then it may be that the camera is nearing the end it's useful life, although probably doubtful. Average lifespan before "deep service" depends on the model, but is usually around 100,000 to possibly 200,000 shutter activations.
The current shutter count can be checked by downloading a recent (new) jpeg to one of many shutter count web sites.
Re the focus problem - it may be that the sensor needs to be cleaned (other than any auto-clean function on the camera). Also, it may be worth removing the lens and cleaning the contacts on the lens and body. A rub over with a soft cloth should do the job. ( refer to the manual for sensor cleaning.). The front element of the lens may also require a light clean, again with an "approved" cleaning cloth - virtually invisible surface patina (even with a filter in place), will cause a degree of soft focus.
Note also that the sensor and auto-focus can sometimes be "fooled" by certain combinations of background and subject colours and lighting type and angles. Try using manual focus, with a range of shutter speeds / aperture settings, and see if this has any effect.
If this does not improve things, then it may be that the camera is nearing the end it's useful life, although probably doubtful. Average lifespan before "deep service" depends on the model, but is usually around 100,000 to possibly 200,000 shutter activations.
The current shutter count can be checked by downloading a recent (new) jpeg to one of many shutter count web sites.
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- #270
Crimea_River
Marshal
Thanks for the info Terry. I'll have a look.
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